MidwestNick

I bought a 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE a couple weeks ago. It has 227,104 miles on it and still running strong. Has 4x4, 4.0 inline 6 and the 19 bolt transmission( clearly I don't know what I am talking about). I bought it for 1300 bucks knowing its leaking oil and a little bit of transmission fuild. I have already replaced the valve cover gasket. Now I need to replace the oil pan gasket and while i drop the oil pan i figured to do the rear main seal while its down. Also have to replace the transmission pan gasket.

My few questions that I have are:

1. Can I drop the oil pan and replace the rear main seal without dropping the front axle or would it just be easier to drop the front axle?

2. When I replace the trans pan gasket and filter how many quarts will it take to refill the transmission and what kind of transmission fluid should i use?

I've read on other forums that it takes 7 to refill, then I see 4 then 3 and other numbers.

I have some plans for this jeep but for right now its my daily driver to get to work. My other car is a Chevy Cruze 1.4t that I am soon getting rid of to buy a newer Wrangler 3.6L

Thanks for all the help and please keep negative comments off the thread.

jay_sco

It would be much easier to do the oil pan and rear main with the axle dropped. I did mine mid way through my lift so I already had the front sagging down, and the passenger lower control arm disconnected. Some say it's easier with he starter removed as well, I left mine on without issue, same with the exhaust.
I don't know bolt counts, but if it's auto it's a AW4 transmission.

Welcome to the forum, and have fun with it!

MidwestNick

Thank you for the help! Any idea how many quarts it will take to refill the transmission after i drop the pan and filter?

toasterknight

A full flush with torque converter is the full 7 quarts but a drain and fill is around 4.

DFlintstone

Welcome! In top in my signature is Cruisers tips. Doing 1 through five is likely doing yourself a favor.

The oil filter adapter O rings are known to harden and leak. It blows right back and mimic a leaky RM seal! (my seal is actually leaking Btw). Anyway a close check there is a good idea before pulling the pan. See links>> (yours will have a bolt, not torx)

OIL FILTER ADAPTER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/

MidwestNick

So if I just drop the Trans pan it's only 4?

CCKen

I recommend not dropping the trans pan at all. Do the drain and refill process.


You'll need Dexron III/Mercon (aka, DEX III/MERC) - about 12 quarts for a complete drain and refill.


You'll need a bucket and funnel, as shown in the pics below.


Park the Jeep on relatively level ground. Set the parking brake.


Place the funnel in position under the trans pan drain plug. Place the bucket under the funnel.


Remove the drain plug (do not lose the plug gasket), Let the pan drain in to the bucket. Replace the drain plug.


Make a mark on the bucket next to the level of the drained fluid. Pour the drained fluid in to a container for proper disposal.


Clean out the bucket with paper towels. Fill the bucket with fresh Dexron III/Mercon trans fluid. Pour the fluid in to the trans thru the dipstick tube (funnel with small neck).


Drive the Jeep for about 15 miles to get the trans fluid up to operating temp. Park the Jeep on level ground. Set the parking brake. Place the trans in PARK. Check the fluid level. It should be near the MAX mark. Add fluid as required - do not overfill. Repeat the process approximate three times for a full drain and refill.

MidwestNick

I have to drop the trans pan. I am not trying to do a flush. The trans pan gasket needs to be replaced and I know when i drop it trans fluid will come out. What I am asking is how much comes out when i drop the trans pan and filter?

Basshark7

What CCKen told you is still valid, having to replace the gasket just adds a few extra steps. First check the transmission dipstick and see how low you are on the stick, then drain the transmission, the whole thing, from the drain plug. Mark the amount drained so you can put the same amount back in at the end. Remove all bolts holding the pan on doing a little bit at a time to each bolt to avoid damage to bolt or bolt hole. With the pan off, don't forget to scrape both mating surfaces, you want as clean/smooth a surface as possible for the new gasket. Install new gasket and reinstall trans pan and finish with the rest of CCKen's instructions. I second checking the oil filter adapter O-rings before doing the rear main seal. 2000 FSM says 8.0L (8.45 quarts) (Dexron II E/Mercon) for full capacity of the AW4, I have no idea how much of that will come out.

quneur

The cooler lines are attached to brackets which bolts on studs under the oil pan. Remember where the studs go and which brackets go where if you're **** like I am and want everything in properly.

There are two different bolts sizes on the oil pan. The larger size (don't remember the sizes) are at the rear main seal area and front corners.

On rear main seal replacement, do not try to force it in while the seal is bent. The seal is basically a round metal rod wrapped in rubber. If the rod is bent (not rounded), forcing it in will scrape the rubber off the rod. I used dishwashing liquid on mine. Using an eye dropper, I squirted alittle in the cavity before pushing the gasket in. The gasket was also soaked in dishwashing liquid. The gasket itself will push the excess out the other side.

I used the better rubber gasket from fel-pro. It comes with blue grommets which helps keeping the gasket on and pan in place on install.

bubbabeme

Not ATF +4