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SPAL fan in place of E-fan?

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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 07:07 AM
  #1  
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Default SPAL fan in place of E-fan?

Has anyone successfully replaced their e-fan with a higher quality SPAL? The TYC fans I’ve tried over the years have been junk. First one was DOA, second one was fine for a bit then it melted the connector, third and current one kicks on at proper temps or A/C pressure but doesn’t always stay on (as in turns on/off/on in somewhat quick succession). I’m going to replace the relay for it and the fuse just in case there’s an electrical issue causing problems, but, I’m also installing Ksuspension’s override switch.

I’d like to swap in a higher CFM fan than the TYC as well. I don’t have overheating issues, but I do notice when low speed driving off road it’s been running pretty warm without the e fan kicking on. When it finally does it’ll cool down to a reasonable level. Hence my question. Thanks folks!
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuckQue
Has anyone successfully replaced their e-fan with a higher quality SPAL? The TYC fans I’ve tried over the years have been junk. First one was DOA, second one was fine for a bit then it melted the connector, third and current one kicks on at proper temps or A/C pressure but doesn’t always stay on (as in turns on/off/on in somewhat quick succession). I’m going to replace the relay for it and the fuse just in case there’s an electrical issue causing problems, but, I’m also installing Ksuspension’s override switch.

I’d like to swap in a higher CFM fan than the TYC as well. I don’t have overheating issues, but I do notice when low speed driving off road it’s been running pretty warm without the e fan kicking on. When it finally does it’ll cool down to a reasonable level. Hence my question. Thanks folks!

if it is running "pretty warm" and if "pretty warm" is a problem, yet the electric fan is not "kicking in" then I suggest that maybe the fan switch needs to be set to turn on sooner. a better fan alone wont help if it doesnt kick in when pretty warm. of course make sure your pretty warm temperature is a true reading, not a gage error.
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 10:37 AM
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I have done it, I used a 2200 cfm fan and built a shroud for it. It would almost cool the engine on a hot day.by itself
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by robsjeep
if it is running "pretty warm" and if "pretty warm" is a problem, yet the electric fan is not "kicking in" then I suggest that maybe the fan switch needs to be set to turn on sooner. a better fan alone wont help if it doesnt kick in when pretty warm. of course make sure your pretty warm temperature is a true reading, not a gage error.
I probably could’ve explained it better, sorry. I haven’t installed the override switch yet. The current e-fan runs like crap and isn’t doing its job properly. I’ve had issues with the same brand e-fan in the past and am looking to rectify that by using a higher quality SPAL.

Cooling system as been reworked with a newer spectra rad, correct hoses, fan clutch is working correctly, torque converter engages properly, heater core bypassed for now, new water pump, new, properly functioning motorad high flow 195* t stat, aux transmission cooler, hyline hood vents, full system super flush and I’m using water wetter.

I was hitting the trail the other day in the desert and it was 105* out. Jeep was running at 220* pushing hard up the hill, temps ran up to 240* by the end and I had to open the hood up. I verified the e-fan was not on at this point (it should have been).

I’m positive the cooling issue is the e-fan not working right.

E fan was replaced last year when the connection melted, current fan works intermittently. When it works, engine runs perfectly within reasonable temps. Hence I’m going to replace the relay and fuse for the fan. I’ll put the bypass switch in as well so I can kick the fan on during slow climbs, but I’d like to incorporate the SPAL to really give the CFM a boost.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 11:35 PM
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have you tried a Mopar coolant temp sensor ?

I just did a override switch seems to help a bit I have noticed it does not cool fast enough once taps are in the 218F range.


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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuckQue
E fan was replaced last year when the connection melted, current fan works intermittently. When it works, engine runs perfectly within reasonable temps. Hence I’m going to replace the relay and fuse for the fan. I’ll put the bypass switch in as well so I can kick the fan on during slow climbs, but I’d like to incorporate the SPAL to really give the CFM a boost.
A better fan cant hurt, but surely you got to sort out why the E-fan isnt coming on at 220F ?

They overheat an runaway real quick once the temp gets over about 230F here in our hot climate

In that ambient temp, and conditions, be hard to keep temp under 220F and the E-fan should run virtually non stop
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 01:16 PM
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Hate to say it,, but you get what you pay for,, Buy cheap china fans, and they are junk.
Try a true mopar fan unit,, yes they are $300 ++
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by awg
A better fan cant hurt, but surely you got to sort out why the E-fan isnt coming on at 220F ?

They overheat an runaway real quick once the temp gets over about 230F here in our hot climate

In that ambient temp, and conditions, be hard to keep temp under 220F and the E-fan should run virtually non stop

That’s definitely something I’m working on. Figure I’ll replace the relay and fuse first, then check the A/C.
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Old Jul 17, 2021 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuckQue
That’s definitely something I’m working on. Figure I’ll replace the relay and fuse first, then check the A/C.
might be the coolant sensor, the PCM uses it to know when to switch on, try an OBD2 reader to cross check

If off-roading in 105F I would have the electric fan running continually via a manual switch
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Old Jul 17, 2021 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by awg
might be the coolant sensor, the PCM uses it to know when to switch on, try an OBD2 reader to cross check

If off-roading in 105F I would have the electric fan running continually via a manual switch
I have a scangauge 2 I run constantly. I was looking at this issue again yesterday after a long drive in the heat. A/C was on full blast (verified refrigerant level was good) and engine temp was at 220*. E fan would turn on for a second then shut off. A few seconds later it would do the same thing. I pulled the connector off of the coolant temp sensor and the fan turned on and stayed on. Changed out the relay and fuses associated with the fan and A/C compressor, blew out the connections to make sure they were clean, no change.

I have a Mopar coolant temp sensor inbound from Rockauto so we shall see if that’s the issue. Even if it is and it fixes the fan, I’m going to mount up a SPAL fan just for the fun of it. I’m also wiring up the override switch. I don’t want to mess around with overheating at all since I have an ‘01 and don’t want to risk cracking the head.
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