Oil pan replacing
So I need to replace my oil pan due to drain plug leaking. Looks like someone else messed with it before. Any recommendation on what oil pan and what gasket is best to use? Also should I replace my oil pump it’s a 2000 with 140miles and pressure is just shy of 40 at idle and driving. I’d do a stock one. Thanks
It’s already over sized and the oil pan gasket is leaking. I have no prob replacing the pan just was wondering what was a good brand to get. Also is a mopar pan gasket good or fel pro better?
Ok. I have low oil pressure and I know rear main is leaking only reason I don’t want to do rear main is because my buddy had low oil pressure and we did rear main high volume oil pump and new oil sending unit and after it was all over the place the gauge. My Jeep had the head replaced due to being cracked and gas mileage on it so I don’t want to mess with the bearing being off. Pressure is just under 40 at idle and 40 while driving. I want to do the pan due to drain plug leaking for over sized drain plugs and new pan gasket but wasn’t sure if I should do a stock oil pump since I’m there with a new pickup also.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ok. I have low oil pressure and I know rear main is leaking only reason I don’t want to do rear main is because my buddy had low oil pressure and we did rear main high volume oil pump and new oil sending unit and after it was all over the place the gauge. My Jeep had the head replaced due to being cracked and gas mileage on it so I don’t want to mess with the bearing being off. Pressure is just under 40 at idle and 40 while driving. I want to do the pan due to drain plug leaking for over sized drain plugs and new pan gasket but wasn’t sure if I should do a stock oil pump since I’m there with a new pickup also.
Get a fel-pro gasket, and watch the BleepingJeep video on removing your oil pan on youtube - really easy job.
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Blacksburg, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Something was wrong with your buddy's rig then.
I did my pan, real main, and high volume oil pump all at the same time and no issues at all. Rear main is easy since it's a two piece. They sell TWO types though at the store so get both because you won't know which one yours is (it's a small difference in how the seal is shaped).
To replace the rear main, you'll use a tap or small screw driver to tap the top piece around so it comes out, like going around a clock face.
The oil pan, if your vehicle is stock, is tough because you need every bit of clearance you can get. You might need to disconnect a few suspension pieces to get enough room, but I didn't have to. You'll want to jack up the car and then put larger jack stands under the "frame" and then let the suspension hang at full droop to get you the clearance you need to wiggle it out.
Good luck!
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Old thread but if you have a 4.0 40 psi is not low at all for hot idle. Book spec is 13 at 650 rpm, 37 to 75 at or above 1600 rpm.
Other forums also talk about bad sensors and 'burping' the sensor for air bubbles.
Other forums also talk about bad sensors and 'burping' the sensor for air bubbles.
CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 469
From: Southern OH
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Agreed, just below 40 at idle is excellent oil pressure.
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