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Rear Main Seal/Oil Pump/Oil Filter Adapter/oil pan gasket a week in review

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Rear Main Seal/Oil Pump/Oil Filter Adapter/oil pan gasket a week in review

Old 12-29-2013, 07:24 PM
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Default Rear Main Seal/Oil Pump/Oil Filter Adapter/oil pan gasket a week in review

So I did all of the above over a week here and there and just wanted to share some of the things I found on my 98 that we different from the multiple write ups:


RMS


1.) Remove lower shock mounts, track bar, and drag ling from pitman arm to get necessary clearance to remove the pan. Some people said they didn't have to do it. I have an upcountry and still had too.


2.) Put some kitty litter under the oil pan before you take it off. Let it drip for 24 hours and sweep it up and you don't have to oil in an oil pit


3.) On the later models there is a bearing girdle which is designed to prevent twisting because the 4.0 is so long. Earlier model jeeps don't have them. No big deal just remove it and keep going


4.) Have deep sockets for the bearing cap. I had a tough time getting it off until I realized you have to rock it front and back on the jeep not side to side


5.) buy and extra RMS....I tore one up getting it in. I found it easiest to go passenger side to drivers side on install.


6.) Some write ups tell you to use RTV on the gasket. Spend the extra and buy the anaerobic sealer. I talked to the tech about it and the reason why is there is a channel in the gasket which faces forward btw. The sealer only cures when there is no air. So any extra that would block the channel normally flows into the pan with oil and doesn't block the channel.


Oil Pump


There are two kind of oil pumps that milling makes. The first is a high volume pump that you have to take a hammer to the pan to clearance. The second is just an OEM replacement. I opted for the OEM.


1.) Pickup installation. These are press fit and both auto zone nor advanced sell them already together. Milling sells a 90 dollar "press". I opted for a crescent wrench, vice and a hammer. The collar on the end that gets pressed into the pump is where you stick the wrench. Then just beat the hell out of the wrench. Works like a champ.


2.) I must have taken that pump on and off 5 times because the pan had 1/4 inch gap. Before you start I recommend you stick the pump and pickup in the pan so to get an idea of where the pick up needs to be and how tight to the pan it is. I found the torque I was putting on the bracket that held the pick up tube was twisting it ever so slightly that I couldn't get the pan to fit right. I spent 2 nights messing with it before I realized all I had to was hold the pick up toward the drivers side as I tightened. This was the most painful part of all of this.


Oil Filter Adapter:


Super easy....on mine all I did was take a t60 socket and knock out the insert with a punch. Take a 12mm wrench (tape the insert to it do it doesn't fall out. I used the top half of my jack handle that fit over the entire wrench as my cheaper bar. Reach from the top of the motor and take it apart. The O rings you need to replace are in the t60 bolt you took out fyi. I took out the stud my accident.


Oil Pan Gasket Install:


ZIP ties ZIP ties Zip Ties.....I stuck 4 of the at each 2nd bolt to the corner and she went in like a champ. got most of the bolts started and just cut the zip ties. Super easy.




I hope this helps the next person because if I had known these things I think I could have done the whole job in an afternoon.

Last edited by THEBIGWHITEONE; 12-29-2013 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:33 PM
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please move to OEM whoops!
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:13 PM
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I need to do ALL of this. Awesome tips. Thanks!
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by THEBIGWHITEONE View Post
please move to OEM whoops!
Moved it for ya bud.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star View Post
Moved it for ya bud.
THANKS!
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:14 PM
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Great tips -

As for the zip ties, you can also get a length of threaded rod from wherever; cut several 4" lengths; and use the original nuts to not only hold everything in place, but also to line up the remaining bolt holes (for those of us too lazy to take more stuff off to get the pan out and in).
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by THEBIGWHITEONE View Post


Oil Pan Gasket Install:


ZIP ties ZIP ties Zip Ties.....I stuck 4 of the at each 2nd bolt to the corner and she went in like a champ. got most of the bolts started and just cut the zip ties. Super easy.
The little plastic snap studs that come with the Permatex Permadry oil pan gasket make the gasket well worth the money.
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Old 06-23-2019, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by downs View Post
The little plastic snap studs that come with the Permatex Permadry oil pan gasket make the gasket well worth the money.
Those things are truly a life saver! I have 4 sets of them in different threads. Wont use anything else.
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Old 06-24-2019, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Vincenza V View Post
I need to do ALL of this. Awesome tips. Thanks!

Good chance you don't need to do all of that.

especially the rear main.

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS



I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.




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