So I did all of the above over a week here and there and just wanted to share some of the things I found on my 98 that we different from the multiple write ups:


RMS


1.) Remove lower shock mounts, track bar, and drag ling from pitman arm to get necessary clearance to remove the pan. Some people said they didn't have to do it. I have an upcountry and still had too.


2.) Put some kitty litter under the oil pan before you take it off. Let it drip for 24 hours and sweep it up and you don't have to oil in an oil pit


3.) On the later models there is a bearing girdle which is designed to prevent twisting because the 4.0 is so long. Earlier model jeeps don't have them. No big deal just remove it and keep going


4.) Have deep sockets for the bearing cap. I had a tough time getting it off until I realized you have to rock it front and back on the jeep not side to side


5.) buy and extra RMS....I tore one up getting it in. I found it easiest to go passenger side to drivers side on install.


6.) Some write ups tell you to use RTV on the gasket. Spend the extra and buy the anaerobic sealer. I talked to the tech about it and the reason why is there is a channel in the gasket which faces forward btw. The sealer only cures when there is no air. So any extra that would block the channel normally flows into the pan with oil and doesn't block the channel.


Oil Pump


There are two kind of oil pumps that milling makes. The first is a high volume pump that you have to take a hammer to the pan to clearance. The second is just an OEM replacement. I opted for the OEM.


1.) Pickup installation. These are press fit and both auto zone nor advanced sell them already together. Milling sells a 90 dollar "press". I opted for a crescent wrench, vice and a hammer. The collar on the end that gets pressed into the pump is where you stick the wrench. Then just beat the hell out of the wrench. Works like a champ.


2.) I must have taken that pump on and off 5 times because the pan had 1/4 inch gap. Before you start I recommend you stick the pump and pickup in the pan so to get an idea of where the pick up needs to be and how tight to the pan it is. I found the torque I was putting on the bracket that held the pick up tube was twisting it ever so slightly that I couldn't get the pan to fit right. I spent 2 nights messing with it before I realized all I had to was hold the pick up toward the drivers side as I tightened. This was the most painful part of all of this.


Oil Filter Adapter:


Super easy....on mine all I did was take a t60 socket and knock out the insert with a punch. Take a 12mm wrench (tape the insert to it do it doesn't fall out. I used the top half of my jack handle that fit over the entire wrench as my cheaper bar. Reach from the top of the motor and take it apart. The O rings you need to replace are in the t60 bolt you took out fyi. I took out the stud my accident.


Oil Pan Gasket Install:


ZIP ties ZIP ties Zip Ties.....I stuck 4 of the at each 2nd bolt to the corner and she went in like a champ. got most of the bolts started and just cut the zip ties. Super easy.




I hope this helps the next person because if I had known these things I think I could have done the whole job in an afternoon.

 

please move to OEM whoops!

 

I need to do ALL of this. Awesome tips. Thanks!

 

Moved it for ya bud.

 

THANKS!

 

Great tips -

As for the zip ties, you can also get a length of threaded rod from wherever; cut several 4" lengths; and use the original nuts to not only hold everything in place, but also to line up the remaining bolt holes (for those of us too lazy to take more stuff off to get the pan out and in).

 

The little plastic snap studs that come with the Permatex Permadry oil pan gasket make the gasket well worth the money.

 

Those things are truly a life saver! I have 4 sets of them in different threads. Wont use anything else.

 

Good chance you don't need to do all of that.

especially the rear main.

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS