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I added shackles to the cart. Started to add nuts and bolts and then I remembered I bought the master hardware kit from a member on here a while back and I believe that came with leaf spring nuts and bolts.
I may still need to add two for the shackles, I'll have to check.
I added shackles to the cart. Started to add nuts and bolts and then I remembered I bought the master hardware kit from a member on here a while back and I believe that came with leaf spring nuts and bolts.
I may still need to add two for the shackles, I'll have to check.
No you won't but you might want to after I tell you what I found out.
So I have the same kit. There are 6 nuts and bolts in there. Plus 12 washers.
Things to be aware of.
First the bolts are Class 8.8. Which is the equivalent of Grade 5.
Now best I can tell from the internet is that they should be Class 10.9. Which is the equivalent of Grade 8.
So I tried to see if any body selling real Mopar bolts showed the head.
Third Row down 7th from the left.
You can't access the website but I also saved the image.
So it looks like it says 9.8. Which appears to be between 8.8 and 10.9.
Also I am assuming that is a real Mopar bolt. Only image of the head of one I could find.
Now also too the master kit bolts are not flange heads. Which in itself is not that big a deal.
You just use washers.
And I even found online where somebody said that Grade 5 is better.
Logic being that Grade 8, or 10.9, would snap being harder metal. The Grade 5 would would give a little.
If something bad happened.
Which kind of made sense but they were blasted for the statement. LOL.
Read Post# 2 then Post# 5.
Where I am going with all this.
I am betting for what I do with my Jeep, just a DD, the Class 8.8 would probably be OK.
But I decided that I am buying all new Mopar bolts and nuts anyway.
Oh and I forgot to add.
That I am taking off the red Loctite that looks like comes on the bolts.
And using blue stuff like I am pretty sure I read you do somehwere.
Googling doing that appears to say brake cleaner or acetone will take off the red Loctite.
But I have to research that further.
Dave thanks for the shot of the bolt.
Everybody on the internet says Grade 8 its equivalent being Class 10.9.
Which technically is not true. LOL.
Originally Posted by Spencer_P
Thanks for looking out! The money saved isn't worth a bolt snapping. Wish I had known before ordering the kit
I feel a little cheated myself. I bought the kit about 2 years ago.
Hoping someday I would actually get the suspension done.
And I figured it would be nice to have other bolts too.
And since I am moving forward with this decided to dot my i's and cross my t's.
I try to do my homework. That is what it is all about.
So just today I took out the untouched kit to have a look at it.
And took a close look at the hardware. That is when I noticed they were Class 8.8.
I have read enough on the internet to be pretty sure that they should be a stronger bolt.
Now not all the bolts in there are 8.8's.
The track bar and UCA bolts are 10.9's.
The front bumper tie in bolts and the diff cover bolts appear to be Grade 8.
They have the hash marks on them instead of saying what they are.
Now the real question is cause they are 8.8 and real ones are not 10.9 but 9.8 does it matter?
Also too it might not be as bad as we think with the kit we bought.
At the moment we are just concerned about leaf spring and shackle bolts.
The other bolts in the kit might be what they need to be. Just not flange head ones maybe.
But we will do our research on that when the time comes. LOL.
I found a Napa part number somewhere online for U bolts. Have to see if I could find it again.
But I also found another post somewhere that said they suck. So...LOL.
Thinking probably best to go with the ones you are going to use.
But I had read where guys say go to a spring shop and get them made.
Better quality and usually reasonably priced.
There is one a town over from me.
Even say right on their website they do it and what they need for measurements.
Anybody know the specs for a U-Bolt?
I am a bit curious as to what they would cost from them.
½” D x 3” W x 6.5" L, Round These are from Fat Bob's. Only dimensions that would vary depending on your needs would be the length (I'm using 7" with Crown springs and 4 degree shims which are about 1/2" thick) and the width which depends on your axle. 3" for the C8.25 and 2.75" for the D35 (don't know what for a D44).
½” D x 3” W x 6.5" L, Round These are from Fat Bob's. Only dimensions that would vary depending on your needs would be the length (I'm using 7" with Crown springs and 4 degree shims which are about 1/2" thick) and the width which depends on your axle. 3" for the C8.25 and 2.75" for the D35 (don't know what for a D44).
Thanks for that.
I am noticing the ones Spencer_P is buying are 9" long with 1/2" diameter.
The ones from Napa that supposedly are the right one are 8" long with a 1/2" diameter.
Both 3" in width.
Oh and it is an 8.25 rear
Best estimate is the ones on my Jeep are 7" long.
01-06-2021, 03:14 PM
