Spencer_P

I posted them in my build thread. Sorry in advance the pictures aren't great. Still need to wash it and go take some good pictures, maybe this week.

Even with mine being a bit on the stiff side (again I've only put maybe 50 miles on it), it is better than the old stuff that really tossed me around while driving.

Sig220

Have to agree with Spencer....even being a little stiff at first, it is smoother then it was with flat leaf springs. The wife even made the comment it was "pretty smooth". (She drives a Highlander!) My 93 yoa Mom said it rides pretty good, after a 5 hour trip in it! I probably have 6K mile on mine since replacing the springs.
I use mine as a daily driver although I bought it as a second vehicle for me. I figure every mile I put on it is one I save on my Z71 and I don't have to worry about where I park or if I rub a limb or what have you. Sometimes, I think about selling my Z71 and buying another truck when I tire of driving the XJ but who am I kidding!

shadaloo

Ok cool, I finished the rebuild last night and thankfully I had 0 issues. I don't have a press, so I was able to use threaded rod + a few things to get the bushings into the leafs. All of my bolts came right out, I'm in Florida so rust wasn't bad.. I was worried a nut would break free, but everything went smooth.

I haven't driven it much yet, just around the block and over some speed bumps and holy ****... it feels like the rear end is solid. I know the front and rear springs are heavy duty, but wow.. The rear doesn't have any give what so ever on speed bumps, it just bumps up like there isn't any suspension at all, so hopefully after breaking them in it softens up. I can push on the front/rear bumper and have everything move nicely though. The only thing I am worried about right now is the rear settling too much after they break in. From what I've read, it will sit .5" lower after break in. It seems the front and rear are dead even right now, so I don't really want the rear to be any lower, its perfect height right now.

My XJ is my daily driver now (my 2015 Cherokee was totaled 2 months ago). So I'll have to see how this suspension rebuild turns out! First impressions have me wishing I had just gotten the Old Man Emu set, but that costs as much as I paid for the Jeep hah. Will be driving it the next few days and hoping everything sets in.

Dave51

I've had my Crown Heavy Duty Rear Leafs in for over 2 years now. When I hit a good-sized bump, it sounds like the axle is hitting the frame. w/o a load they don't move a lot.

Dave51

Mine still at ~19.75".

Wpnx1982

I know this is an old thread, but is that just the isolator or a spacer that you used with the coils?

Spencer_P

Spacers.
RE1333 is the part number.

linksvu

Did you use the spacer on its own? Meaning, not in addition to a new isolator?

And what do you think of the noise or feel of the spacer since it is poly? I've heard they translate more road and make more noise over the stock rubber.

Spencer_P

Yes, just the spacer. I haven't noticed any noises thus far.

shinerm02

Just finished reading through this thread. Great info and thanks for including the parts lists like you did. One question I had was about drive line vibration after the install. On my 97 cherokee I used the moog cc782 coil springs and went with junkyard s-10 bastard pack for the rear leafs. I netted the same 1.75 - 2" lift but had vibrations and eventually installed SYE ,new driveshaft and axle shims. I now have a 99 that needs new springs but I don't want the extra cost of the SYE etc. Did any of you who did this swap have to deal with drive line vibes?

Dave51

Shims worked for me.

I also had to replace a shock after a short time as there's a little stress placed on it because of the new mounting angle.

Replaced spiders cause they were a little sloppy and added additional racket, and I just became more aware of how noisy things can get back there!

Dave51

If I had to do it again I'd just install 2 massive subwoofers and loop "Whoomp!" all day long.

Spencer_P

Was that with the Monroe shocks I used (or equivalent) or stock length shocks?

I haven't yet experienced any issues, if any arise hopefully shims would get them sorted.

Dave51

I have KYB shocks for the stock application, but I don't think that's why there's stress. Putting in shims will twist the axle such that the upper and lower shock connection planes are no longer parallel. I think that's why the top mount bent (I'm a street-only driver and don't recall even hitting a pothole):



At that point hitting almost any bump made a deceivingly loud clunk. Took a while to figure out, but something happened to the plunger. Shock still works otherwise, no problem with the other or the new shock. Unassociated plunger failure? IDK, but looks like a smoking gun to me.