Dave51

OK LMK. I got toolz. We gonna need the hydraulic press?

Ralph77

Tools I got. And least I think what I will need.
Air, corded and cordless impacts.
Die grinders (air), sawzalls, and angle grinders. Both corded and cordless.
Jack stands, jacks, etc
Hell I even bought a pickle fork awhile back cause I heard it could help.
Bought one that I could attach to my air hammer. LOL.

I am sure one of the garages we do business with has a press.
Was thinking of trying to do it myself. Just to see.
Threaded rod trick I have seen used. Think I have seen somebody use a ball joint press.
Figure freeze em up first, coat them with some grease maybe, and have at it.
Springs will probably be here in a week, bushings I already have, and figure I would prep that sometime in the near future.
Cause the earliest this job will get tackled is April.
Unless I just say screw it and pay somebody to do it. LOL.

Dave51

OK I got a press. Figure two trips anyway.

EZEARL

"Unless I just say screw it and pay somebody to do it. LOL. "

You two can do it. And know that it's done right. Shop rate would tack on a good bit of money you could use elsewhere.

Ralph77

Well I think I can in the fact that I have a pretty good idea what to do.
It is the physical part that I am kinda wondering about.
Not as young as I used to be. LOL.

Sig220

I used anti-seize, only on the middle of the bolts where they sit inside the bushing sleeves. I tried to be careful and not get
it on the threads and think I was successful. I am not concerned with it causing the bolts to loosen up. In my opinion (JMHO)
corrosion is a bigger danger then the anti-seize. Your mileage may vary! (YMMV)

I had a experience at the junkyard when I was removing a complete XJ front differential. All went well until I tried to remove the
bolt holding the trackbar to the axle housing. I could spin it enough to remove the nut, but it would not bulge out of the bushing sleeve.
I finally had to cut the bolt with a saws all on on both sides of the sleeve to free it. In over 10 years of working in LE fleet management and
repair, I never had problems with bolts backing out due to anti-seize being used and we used it a lot on all sorts of bolts and studs.

EZEARL

I was 70 (3yrs ago) and had 4 spine surgeries when I did mine by myself. I do have a garage but no lift (would be nice!!).
You know what's strange is I'm for sure the second owner and I have yet to see any color Loctite let alone red Loctite on any bolts I've removed on this thing. Maybe it was built on a Monday or a Friday?

Sig220

I should add, that using a 1/2 inch, high torque impact will improve your experience with the rear spring removal. I had air and battery powered types available, but only used the DeWalt beast!
Always start by tightening a little then shifting to loosening. When you get tired of holding it up, take a break and spray some lube on the bolt and hit it again! Hope that works or helps on the salt
damaged bolts! Hearing protection is suggested!

Sig220

Dang, Earl you got me beat!
Maybe we ought to have a section for us "seasoned" guys, where we can post ideas of how to accomplish our repairs with less effort?

I have not seen any loctite on the repairs I have done so far, either. About 22 years of rust and neglect is holding most of it together, I think!

Ralph77

That is one thing that did occur to me. Use anti-seize on the part of the bolt that sits in the sleeve.

I am younger and no surgeries. Just lots of broken bones from past activities and suspect some undiagnosed arthritis.
Paying for it all now. LOL.

Pictures you see of new Mopar bolts have red Loctite on them. Even the Crown ones look like there is something there.
Will know better when I get mine.
Which I plan on taking off and using blue Loctite instead.

Ralph77

I have the smaller Milwaukee Fuel.
700 lbs fastening and 1,100 lbs nut busting as they like to say.
It is 2 speed. Usually I have things soaked down. Then I do a little tighten and untighten at the low speed.
And squirt more stuff in there. I always figure it loosens crap in there up a little.
Then see where we are at.

Remember how I said I want to take off the red Loctite and replace it with blue?
Well I have bee doing a little research on that.
Appears brake cleaner and acetone does the job.
Got me thinking. Wonder if you could squirt some brake cleaner in there.
And would it help?

EZEARL

Been called "older than dirt" before but never "seasoned". LOL As you get older you just have to learn to work smarter and not harder. I'm am lucky in that I've got no arthritis around where my surgeries were done. Ralph I'm guessing you've got the type of arthritis that's associated with traumatic injuries. Got it in both elbows and one hand. Actually had to have a fusion done on my hand 4yrs ago from an injury that happened when I was 18. That's when I first heard of that type of arthritis.

Only had one sleeve bound to a bolt. Front of spring. I opened the split in the sleeve enough to inject penetrating fluid into it. Worked it back an forth periodically and it came loose. Used anti-seize on all hardware. Checked after 100 miles of use and no loosening at all.

Dave51

I think we should start earlier cause it sounds like all you guys will be dead by April.

Ralph77

Yeah I guess. My hands particularly. Sometimes they just don't want to work. LOL.

When I did my rear sway bar links I had a small problem with the bolt seizing to the sleeve.
I just kept at it. Could only get in there with a ratchet.
Back and forth, squirts some stuff, back and forth, and so on.
Finally came out.
Thinking I used the CRC Freeze Off for that one.

EZEARL

Best homemade penetrating fluid I've used is 50/50 auto trans fluid and acetone. Seems to get drawn into where the bolts thread. For simply removing rust auto trans fluid is hard to beat.

Your right Ralph in that slow and easy is the way to go.