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Old 01-07-2021, 01:00 PM
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Actually the ones I'm using now are 7 1/2".
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...ysler-825.html

The ones I had from Fat Bob's were 6 1/2" but after I had cut them down they were too short for use with the 4 degree shims. Both 8" and 9" ones seem to be unnecessarily long for most of our applications but the price differences among them all can't be that much. So you can just cut them down.
Old 01-07-2021, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Actually the ones I'm using now are 7 1/2".
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...ysler-825.html

The ones I had from Fat Bob's were 6 1/2" but after I had cut them down they were too short for use with the 4 degree shims. Both 8" and 9" ones seem to be unnecessarily long for most of our applications but the price differences among them all can't be that much. So you can just cut them down.
Those were ones I was considering too.
8" seemed a little long. 9" is just out there.
Especially if I am right about factory being 7".
Been looking at those plates too.
Not cause I need new ones though.
Cause I would like to clean them up before reassembling the suspension.
But won't have time for paint to dry most likely.
Maybe see if I can scoff some used factory ones somewhere to prep ahead of time.
Old 01-07-2021, 01:25 PM
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I've got the zinc plating on my u-bolts and on a track bar relocation bracket. Even just keeping them cleaned off they've held up as new. Those plates with some sort of protective coating (wax,clear coat,etc?) might be the cats meow.
Old 01-07-2021, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
I've got the zinc plating on my u-bolts and on a track bar relocation bracket. Even just keeping them cleaned off they've held up as new. Those plates with some sort of protective coating (wax,clear coat,etc?) might be the cats meow.
Nice to know they hold up well.
Old 01-07-2021, 01:43 PM
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I may get the IRO ones then. They seem to be a couple of dollars cheaper, with shipping, than the RE ones.
Old 01-07-2021, 02:10 PM
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So thanks to Spencer_P getting me motivated on this.
And the government giving me free money I did something stupid today.
Hey I saved the first check so..... LOL.

Leafs - Mopar 52002392AB for 2.
Bolts - Mopar 34202118 for 6.
Nuts - Mopar 6102251AA for 6.

My guy told me the old nut number, 11502814, had changed.
Thing is they cost twice as much.
But I don't care.
Should see all of it in about a week.
But don't get all excited cause when it will be put on the Jeep is another story.
Plus I still need the U-Bolts and spring plates.
Thinking I might just by both from IRO.
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Old 01-07-2021, 02:18 PM
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Don't forget the bushings.
Old 01-07-2021, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Don't forget the bushings.
Got a OK deal on Mopar ones about a year ago.
See Post# 11.
Old 01-07-2021, 02:22 PM
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That'll work!!
Old 01-09-2021, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Here's my New England shackle:



so I got some OEMs.
So here is something I just realized.
Is the nut to the upper shackle bolt tack welded inside like it is for the front leaf spring bolt?
Cause I am envisioning extra problems if so.
Best I can tell by looking at my Jeep and research it is.
Dave how lucky did you get pulling that?
Old 01-09-2021, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
So here is something I just realized.
Is the nut to the upper shackle bolt tack welded inside like it is for the front leaf spring bolt?
Cause I am envisioning extra problems if so.
Best I can tell by looking at my Jeep and research it is.
Dave how lucky did you get pulling that?
Yes it's a tacked welded nut but IIRC it's readily accessible, especially with the bumper off, so PB and heat worked well and I saved the bolt. Used tubur bolts for the bottoms.


Old 01-09-2021, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Yes it's a tacked welded nut but IIRC it's readily accessible, especially with the bumper off, so PB and heat worked well and I saved the bolt. Used tubur bolts for the bottoms.
Betting that is one place that I have not been PB Blasting.
Wish I could remember what it looked like in there when I had my rear bumper off to install new nut strips.

Cause I have been trying to figure out how I am going to attack this.
The whole rear suspension install that is.

Been watching videos and reading threads for the past couple days.

For the front leaf spring bolt I am almost wondering if doing the hard way might turn out to be the easy way in the long run.
One guys said he drilled a hole in that cavity where the nut is. Got in there with heat.
Watching jordan96xj's video he just heated up the outside of the cavity that the nut sits in.
Cause of the red Loctite and all.
I am just wonder if it would be easy just to cut everything from the get go.
The leaf eyelet, bushing, sleeve in the bushing, peel everything back, hit the bolt with some heat right where it goes into the nut, and hopefully everything will work out as it should.

And since you think you can get at that upper rear shackle nut with the bumper off just pull that too ahead of time.

Oh and cause of my need to overthink everything been wondering about something else.
So I read in one place that you replace the red Loctite with blue.
But I see everybody else anti-seizing the bolts. And I get it.
And you torque everything to spec with the Jeep on the ground.
But Google how anti-seize effects torque values.
Opinions are all over the place.
So I wonder what guys who use anti-seize do about this.
Cause they never really say. LOL.
Old 01-09-2021, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
But I see everybody else anti-seizing the bolts.
I would say absolutely don't do that. The spring and shackles are constantly rotating and the bolts will work themselves out in short order. I had mine roughed in when I was playing around, and the bolts loosened up after a short drive.
Old 01-09-2021, 08:22 AM
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I'm sure they use antiseize to protect the bolt, but IMO loctite blue does the same thing.

BTW I'm just up the road (give or take). I can swing by if you need an extra hand to help **** things up.
Old 01-09-2021, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
I would say absolutely don't do that. The spring and shackles are constantly rotating and the bolts will work themselves out in short order. I had mine roughed in when I was playing around, and the bolts loosened up after a short drive.
Well that is what I am thinking.
Not to anti-seize.
Thing is Google putting rear leafs in an XJ.
Seemed like a lot of people do.

Thanks for the offer might have to take you up on that.
I finally caught up with my friend and he really isn't working on cars anymore.
Got a buddy up in the Enfield area that would help but if it turns into a cluster f@#k then that could be a problem.
I could just pay for it but the same problem when a garage can't get my Jeep off their lift cause of whatever.
So I think I am going to end up doing this myself in the driveway.
At least if it needs to sit there apart it is not a problem.

Last edited by Ralph77; 01-09-2021 at 08:27 AM.


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