I really hoped I didn't have to make this post but I'm running out of ideas. A few weeks ago I developed death wobble and as of this post I still haven't been able to get rid of it. My Jeep is sitting at 4.5 inches of lift using springs and blocks, cavfab adjustable control arms set to the proper length for my lift, JCR off road one ton under the knuckle steering upgrade, a drop track bar, and 16 inch wheels with 31 inch tires. So far I have replaced all 4 ball joints, a tie rod end, a wheel bearing (the other is fine), and installed a larger bolt in the axle side of the track bar because the other bolt was too small and the holes were a little oblong. If anything my death wobble has gotten worse since replacing these parts. My control arm bushings should not be bad as they are only a year old but I plan and removing the arms and inspecting them anyway. I am currently waiting on a bracket to arrive so I can install a steering damper even though it hasn't been needed since installing the steering and steering dampers supposedly don't cure or cause death wobble. I am also going to take my drag link off to inspect the ends of it. Beyond the things listed here I am at a loss as to why I keep having this issue, the tires are balanced I check them myself on a regular basis (I work in a dealer so it's easy for me to do this stuff when I want). I am open to any and all insights that may go beyond the norm when dealing with death wobble.

 

Do you have an adjustable track bar? Or just a drop bracket. You want the track bar and the steering drag link to be the same angle, parallel to each other. Track bar bushes could be worn out. Control arm bushings?

I get DW on bumpy parts of the freeway, it’s scary and sucks. I need an adjustable track bar because I can physically see the drag link is not at as steep an angle has the track bar.

 

I think under the knuckle steering with dropped track bar could be your cause.
Put track bar back to stock location and see what happens

 

It's adjustable track bar and a drop bracket. Just checked the track bar bushing and it's ok. I'll take a look at the angles and see how they look.

 

Here is how it looks at the moment.


Here

 

Under the knuckle puts the drag link nearly the same as stock, lowering in the drag link makes it have less angle then the drag link will cause bump steer even with tight new parts.

You neef to measure the angle from end to end of the track bar and compare to the drag link angle youl need to use a straight edge of some Kind. The bend in the track bar doesnt matter. Its from point to point the bends dont affect the working angle.

To me it looks way off but bent bars are hard to see if theyre running parallel to eachother

 

Is that an RC track bar extender? 1/4" steel? Bolted tight or welded?

 

​​​​​​​It's a Ebay kit, bolted on, looks pretty thick I'd have to measure it to say for sure the thickness.

 

I'll have to check that, I think I get what you're saying.

 

Did you determine the issue and rid your rig of the DW?

 

Sounds like your track bar is not parallel with your drag link. Can you post some pics of the front so I can see your steering geometry?

 

Keep in mind the post dates on these comments.. last comment from this originally was May of last year - so this is digging an old thread back up but i feel i can shed some visual clarity to understanding the relationship between the track bar and steering linkage.

Soo for clarity - this is directly a relation of angle between the flex joint (all be it a tie-rod style joint of heim joint) mounting points for both the track bar and link between pitman arm and link between the knuckles. I have seen this link between the knuckles referenced as all kinds of things from drag-link, steer-link, the tie-rod, cross-link etc etc. For my purpose of explaining this im referring to it as the link from pitman arm to link between knuckles. SO as mentioned above - a bend in the/any bar doesn't change the aligning angle of its operation; that is done for functional use of the joint. The bend will typically orient the flex joint for a near middle of travel around ride height. This will maximize its functional travel and lifespan.

If you were to take a roll of 1" wide masking tape and run a length of that across the bolt heads for your track bar joints, Then also run a length of tape from flex joint body (being tie-rod or heim joint) on your pitman arm to link between knuckles you will have a reference of operating angle of each. These now 2 seperate tape lines is what is important that stay parallel to each other. The tape stands out as a solid visual reference against everything going on in your front end.

Another thing to consider is typically you shouldn't drop your track bar mounting point unless you also drop your pitman arm length as well. In stock setup they are aligned to work properly and when you change one and not the other, it changes the operating angle of the link, then you welcome in bump-steer and also the potential to instigate death wobble.

Another point to be made that is often overlooked is the length of both your track bar and link between pitman arm and link between knuckles. These 2 links should be as close to the same length as you can keep them. When you have differing lengths in these 2 links you have 2 different arcs or radius that your suspension is trying to operate within. This puts more stress and induces more premature wear into your joints.

Below i have included a photo from the front end of my J2000 build. You will notice the tape line representing my track bar is spot on parallel to the link from pitman arm to knuckle (different than your steering setup but the principle still applies.)
Also to note both the track bar and link between pitman arm and knuckle are the same length as well.

 

Don't know if this is related but my Jeep rocks side to side, do I have weak springs and how could I stiffen the suspension? I don't think this is normal! It really rocks side to side on road bumps and uneven surfaces as I go through them!

 

You might want to start your thread, lot of folks don't read zombie threads.

That said, replace them. No other option. R&R everything, and I mean everything.