Core4X4 Control Arms
#1
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Core4X4 Control Arms
There is a reason that auto manufacturers use tapered fasteners! Maybe the correct term is “thread cutting machine screws?” I’m an IT guy, not a mechanic.
So I spent way more time on Saturday then I will ever care to admit installing Core4X4 control arms.
Do yourself a big favor if you elect to purchase their product, DO NOT USE THEIR FASTENERS unless your Jeep is perfectly aligned, or you have help.
Unfreaking believable trying to align the mounting holes to get a fastener with a “squared off” business end to seat. With two people, OK. But I was all by my lonesome for the first control arm.
The ride quality of my XJ improved after the several hour long install (I mean it’s just two bolts per arm, right?!).
Also, the heft of the control arms makes me think that my XJ is ready for the zombie apocalypse HA.
And hopefully, their lifetime “You manage to break it, we replace it” warranty is all good.
Man, my arms hurt from trying to lign that shtuff up.
Oh, one last thing... and in 2019, why the Hell wouldn’t a company put their damn install instructions on-freaking-line. #%<+£!
So I spent way more time on Saturday then I will ever care to admit installing Core4X4 control arms.
Do yourself a big favor if you elect to purchase their product, DO NOT USE THEIR FASTENERS unless your Jeep is perfectly aligned, or you have help.
Unfreaking believable trying to align the mounting holes to get a fastener with a “squared off” business end to seat. With two people, OK. But I was all by my lonesome for the first control arm.
The ride quality of my XJ improved after the several hour long install (I mean it’s just two bolts per arm, right?!).
Also, the heft of the control arms makes me think that my XJ is ready for the zombie apocalypse HA.
And hopefully, their lifetime “You manage to break it, we replace it” warranty is all good.
Man, my arms hurt from trying to lign that shtuff up.
Oh, one last thing... and in 2019, why the Hell wouldn’t a company put their damn install instructions on-freaking-line. #%<+£!
Last edited by Rlmx; 01-21-2019 at 06:43 AM.
#2
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
When doing control arms by yourself,, use a ratchet strap to pull the axle into place..
Hook strap around axle,,,then hook other end of strap to the jeep(plenty of mounting holes can be found for the strap) ,, pull the axle back into position.
Hook strap around axle,,,then hook other end of strap to the jeep(plenty of mounting holes can be found for the strap) ,, pull the axle back into position.
Last edited by Dumajones; 01-20-2019 at 12:55 AM.
#3
CF Veteran
Sounds like you need to do your research and read a how-to. Not the company's fault the axle rolled a little on you and you didn't think about using a ratchet strap or a jack to rotate it back into place. My Core 4x4 Tier 3 arms have taken a beating and still ride as good as they did out the package minus some paint.
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 5.2
I have core4x4 rear uppers in my ZJ and they were a breeze to stall
This sounds like user error in a unfamiliar place.
I have a 1 ton come-a-long that I bought for $20 when working on my axles.
This sounds like user error in a unfamiliar place.
I have a 1 ton come-a-long that I bought for $20 when working on my axles.
#5
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
It's arms...with two bolts for each arm.
Other than torque specs...there's no reason to need installation instructions.
A simple set of ratchet straps would have made life easier.
Let it be a learning experience, no reason to be mad at Core4x4.
Other than torque specs...there's no reason to need installation instructions.
A simple set of ratchet straps would have made life easier.
Let it be a learning experience, no reason to be mad at Core4x4.
#6
Senior Member
MY brother just went threw the same he had never done it thought how hard can it be well after 2 hours fighting the first one called me was ticket off when I took about 15 min to change the second one he also had the front axle hanging from the suspension and that didn't help! you live and learn! or at least we can hope you learn
#7
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Thread Starter
When I attempted to line up the adjustable end on the up side, there was no way in Hell that the lower control arm was going to seat into the top mount. It was off by over an inch. On the flip side, both control arm seated on both sides with the adjustable end down. But then I figured out by looking at install instructions for a competitor's product that the adjustable end *was* supposed to be on the up side.
Also, a jack was under the axle assembly. The entire axle assembly basically stayed put, it moved a fraction of an inch when I disconnected the control arms. And I only did one arm at a time. I was at a DIY garage where the outfit supplies an experienced mechanic to provide advice. He told me to use the floor jack and to make sure that the the axle assembly didn't shift when disconnecting the arms.
The only frustrating part is that the factory bolts could be seated/installed in minutes. With a tapered end on the bolts, the holes wouldn't have to be *perfectly* aligned.
And torque specs... I assume they are kind of critical.
Totally happy with the quality of the product. No issues there.
Last edited by Rlmx; 01-21-2019 at 07:51 AM.
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#9
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Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
So why should the adjustable end be on the up side? Or on the down side?
When I attempted to line up the adjustable end on the up side, there was no way in Hell that the lower control arm was going to seat into the top mount. It was off by over an inch. On the flip side, both control arm seated on both sides with the adjustable end down. But then I figured out by looking at install instructions for a competitor's product that the adjustable end *was* supposed to be on the up side.
Also, a jack was under the axle assembly. The entire axle assembly basically stayed put, it moved a fraction of an inch when I disconnected the control arms. And I only did one arm at a time. I was at a DIY garage where the outfit supplies an experienced mechanic to provide advice. He told me to use the floor jack and to make sure that the the axle assembly didn't shift when disconnecting the arms.
The only frustrating part is that the factory bolts could be seated/installed in minutes. With a tapered end on the bolts, the holes wouldn't have to be *perfectly* aligned.
And torque specs... I assume they are kind of critical.
Totally happy with the quality of the product. No issues there.
When I attempted to line up the adjustable end on the up side, there was no way in Hell that the lower control arm was going to seat into the top mount. It was off by over an inch. On the flip side, both control arm seated on both sides with the adjustable end down. But then I figured out by looking at install instructions for a competitor's product that the adjustable end *was* supposed to be on the up side.
Also, a jack was under the axle assembly. The entire axle assembly basically stayed put, it moved a fraction of an inch when I disconnected the control arms. And I only did one arm at a time. I was at a DIY garage where the outfit supplies an experienced mechanic to provide advice. He told me to use the floor jack and to make sure that the the axle assembly didn't shift when disconnecting the arms.
The only frustrating part is that the factory bolts could be seated/installed in minutes. With a tapered end on the bolts, the holes wouldn't have to be *perfectly* aligned.
And torque specs... I assume they are kind of critical.
Totally happy with the quality of the product. No issues there.
It is also somewhat more accessible when adjustment is needed as you don't have to fight the front tire as much.
And now, you have also learned when the mechanic tells you to make sure the axle doesn't move, he means doesn't move, not doesn't move much..................
.
Last edited by TRCM; 01-21-2019 at 08:36 AM.
#10
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Thread Starter
Well, putting the adjustable end up top means it is more out of the way of things that could damage the adjustable connection (threads, nut, etc) and prevent it from being able to be adjusted...
And now, you have also learned when the mechanic tells you to make sure the axle doesn't move, he means doesn't move, not doesn't move much..................
.
And now, you have also learned when the mechanic tells you to make sure the axle doesn't move, he means doesn't move, not doesn't move much..................
.
Good to know why one end should be up vs. the other. Thank you.
I ordered the Core4X4 adjustable leaf spring shackles on Saturday. Totally hyped.
#11
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Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
Well, I'm not sure if that if the 'official' reason, but it's what makes sense to me.....
Be prepared...the rear axle is often harder to get back together than the front, as the spring is hard to flatten out without the vehicle weight on it, and not having that when you re-assemble it can make anger come quick.....
Personally, I install the shackle in the frame box end 1st so I can see how things align when I attach the spring eye to the bottom end of the shackle...and make sure the bottom fasteners can be installed the direction you want them before you try....some of them have lower bolts that are too long to be installed nut out vice nut in.
Not sure it really makes a difference which way they go, but I prefer nut out, so 'if' the nut comes off, the frame has a chance to prevent the bolt from working all the way out before I realize what's going on.
.
Last edited by TRCM; 01-21-2019 at 12:35 PM.
#12
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Thread Starter
Well, I'm not sure if that if the 'official' reason, but it's what makes sense to me.....
Be prepared...the rear axle is often harder to get back together than the front, as the spring is hard to flatten out without the vehicle weight on it, and not having that when you re-assemble it can make anger come quick......
Be prepared...the rear axle is often harder to get back together than the front, as the spring is hard to flatten out without the vehicle weight on it, and not having that when you re-assemble it can make anger come quick......
#13
CF Veteran
Be sure to put some loctite on the nuts on the new rear shackles. I had the core 4x4 ones and the nuts always came loose until I loctited them.
#14
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Year: 1999 sport
Engine: 4.0 6I
done this so manytimes. ratchet straps are always my go to when trying to align anything. also, doesnt hurt to have slider (it helps pulling things sideways.
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