Prepping an 8.8 to swap into my 89 Cherokee. The stock Ford setup is hardline center brakeline w/2 short soft lines held in by banjo bolts to the calipers. Is there a reason I can't do hardlines off the tee directly to the calipers? I noticed the banjo bolts holes are different sized (3/32" end same as hardline I.D. and 1/16" hole in the side). Does this different hole size function somewhat like a proportioning valve type situation or would I be ok directly plumbing brakeline to caliper? Thanks for any enlightenment you guys can provide here..... Mike

 

The calipers slide side to side as they operate. You need those hoses. Use two passenger side explorer hoses and replumb the axle to use your Cherokee flex hose to the same location of the 8.8 axle as your current axle.

While you are reworking the brakes on your 89, swap out the booster for a WJ booster and master cylinder. Will make a world of difference.

 

All rear disc have a small rubber line between the brakes and hard line on a solid axle.And for the reason bad idea said the brakes do move a tiny bit and on a hard line it would break the line off so the rubber line gives it a little flex it needed.

 

on my 8.8 swap i ran the one hose that has one input and one output, and bought another just like it for the other side i ran the jeep flex line from the body to the axle then hard lined across the axle then the lil short hoses at each end been runnin this setup for 5 years now

 

Short flex lines it'll be then! 2 passenger side lines ( I'll search for part #) and I have hard line ready to be bent. Fitting size compatible w/Cherokee brake tee???

 

I used preflared tubing from Advanced Auto between the Cherokee flex hose and the Explorer flex lines. Same fittings on the hoses.

I grabbed my axle from Pick N Pull. I grabbed the axle from one with the ratio I wanted in good shape, the pads and rotors from one that were in like new shape, and two passenger brake hoses from ones that were in good shape. Also grabbed the flange adapter from a Ranger to install on the Cherokee driveshaft (cut the driveshaft off and bolt the nub to the pinion flange). They charge for the complete axle so the cost was the same as if I had just yanked one and dragged it up front.

 

As far as the Grand Cherokee booster/master swap....... is it direct bolt-in?? You're correct.....while I have it all apart it's a perfect time to upgrade.....thanks for the help guys!!!!

 

Fairly straight forward swap. Bolts to firewall with same bolt pattern. Will have to bend lip back on seam above booster for it to bolt in. Will have to drill hole and grind flat on end of push rod to match brake switch. Will then have to make brake lines with bubble flare at master cylinder and double flare at prop valve. Any further questions, there is plenty of info on the site. Some searching should find some good write ups.

 

Rear passenger side lines?