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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Highly recommended
Originally Posted by dukie564
everything i've ever heard about them and seen first hand has been top notch - quality, service, performance, all of it.
Highly recommended
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 L
Originally Posted by RSAJEEP
Thanks, but how long?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by Nperryman
Now this I'm not sure of. If someone else can answer how long of bumpstops he will need for 3-4" lift and I need to know how long of bumpstops for 3" lift and 31's, with 3.75" backspacing.
Originally Posted by Nperryman
Now this I'm not sure of. If someone else can answer how long of bumpstops he will need for 3-4" lift and I need to know how long of bumpstops for 3" lift and 31's, with 3.75" backspacing.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Nevada City, California
Year: 2K
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 with Mustang fuel injectors; 60mm Throttle Body;
OK lets put on our thinking caps.
I increase my tire diameter by 2" it make sense to me that I would need to stop my tire from hitting the wheel well, if before with the smaller tires they did not rub and were bump stopped correctly.
This said, to recreate the same thing as before I would need 1" of bump stop for the 2" larger tires. The radius of the difference between the original tires and the new, bigger tires.
So to recap:
- Lift does not = the need for more bump stopping.
- Lager tires do = the need for more bump stopping.
Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
Originally Posted by Skipper
So if I had a 8" lift and 29" tires I would put on an 8" of bump stopping?
OK lets put on our thinking caps.
I increase my tire diameter by 2" it make sense to me that I would need to stop my tire from hitting the wheel well, if before with the smaller tires they did not rub and were bump stopped correctly.
This said, to recreate the same thing as before I would need 1" of bump stop for the 2" larger tires. The radius of the difference between the original tires and the new, bigger tires.
So to recap:
[*]Lift does not = the need for more bump stopping.[*]Lager tires do = the need for more bump stopping.
Don't mean to be an a$$h0le but I just had to put a stop to this madness.
Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Nevada City, California
Year: 2K
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 with Mustang fuel injectors; 60mm Throttle Body;
Just going by what Ive done for the past 15yrs or so. Every High end lift kit Ive bought or installed has come with either longer Bumpstops or Bumpstop extensions. Common sense would tell u if u have a 8" lift and 29" tires no u wouldnt need Bumpstops. But if u want to run 35" tires on a 4" lift u goin to have to Bumpstop AND trim.
Its the tires that dictate the need for more bump stop not the size of the lift.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 3
From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
Originally Posted by RSAJEEP
thanks for the info guys, I thought the bump stops are there to save the shocks?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Central Washington
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
Just my .02 on bumpstopping...
Tires do dictate the bumpstop more than the lift. Specific lift components might affect bumpstopping.
Last year I stuffed some large tires without a lift and a lot of trimming and work on the wheel wells. I had 5" taller tires, but only ended up needing 1" extra bumpstop in the back, and barely rubbed in the back with stock bumpstops. The way I determined this was to flex out the suspension carefully and make note of what point the tires started to touch and where, and made adjustments from there.
I have added a lift now, and I am adding a 1" spacer in the back for piece of mind, and starting off with the 1" spacer (hockey puck) in the front and see where that lands me with the tires I have around. I'll be checking at full articulation, turning the wheels lock to lock.
My theory on suspension components dictating bumpstops: Shocks can dictate bumpstopping in some situations, but it doesn't follow a 3"=3" rule. It will depend on the shock. Remote res shocks have more up travel, supposedly, before they risk blowing out, for example. You'd have to find out how far your shocks can compress without damage and set your stops accordingly.
In the rear, my opinion is that pure shackel lifts should include bumpstops to match. The stock springs bend easy already (my unlifted DD has nice S-curves to it's springs as well as a LOT of sag), and using a longer shackles without bumpstops to match can allow the spring to be flexed father than what it was designed for, possibly decreasing it's lifespan dramatically. If I add any lift by shackle to my jeep I'll be adding the same amount of bumpstop as it lifts, since I still have one stock leaf in my packs (ie: if I use a shackle that results in 2" more lift, I need 2" longer bumpstops BUT, I already have 1" added spacer for tires, so I only need 1" more). This is just my opinion and each has to decide what they want to do on their own.
Tires do dictate the bumpstop more than the lift. Specific lift components might affect bumpstopping.
Last year I stuffed some large tires without a lift and a lot of trimming and work on the wheel wells. I had 5" taller tires, but only ended up needing 1" extra bumpstop in the back, and barely rubbed in the back with stock bumpstops. The way I determined this was to flex out the suspension carefully and make note of what point the tires started to touch and where, and made adjustments from there.
I have added a lift now, and I am adding a 1" spacer in the back for piece of mind, and starting off with the 1" spacer (hockey puck) in the front and see where that lands me with the tires I have around. I'll be checking at full articulation, turning the wheels lock to lock.
My theory on suspension components dictating bumpstops: Shocks can dictate bumpstopping in some situations, but it doesn't follow a 3"=3" rule. It will depend on the shock. Remote res shocks have more up travel, supposedly, before they risk blowing out, for example. You'd have to find out how far your shocks can compress without damage and set your stops accordingly.
In the rear, my opinion is that pure shackel lifts should include bumpstops to match. The stock springs bend easy already (my unlifted DD has nice S-curves to it's springs as well as a LOT of sag), and using a longer shackles without bumpstops to match can allow the spring to be flexed father than what it was designed for, possibly decreasing it's lifespan dramatically. If I add any lift by shackle to my jeep I'll be adding the same amount of bumpstop as it lifts, since I still have one stock leaf in my packs (ie: if I use a shackle that results in 2" more lift, I need 2" longer bumpstops BUT, I already have 1" added spacer for tires, so I only need 1" more). This is just my opinion and each has to decide what they want to do on their own.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
generally speaking - you need to do the lift and tires, then flex it out measure for the length of the bumpstops you need to either A) keep the tires out of the fenders, or B) Prevent the shocks from bottoming out.
There is no good way to get the bump-stopping amount correct prior to the modifications...
There is no good way to get the bump-stopping amount correct prior to the modifications...
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 0
From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Kuro89
What size dom should I use when I build my upper control arms?





