Ok cool, I was debating between the two, but I just got a good deal on these brand new spacers. Because I was thinking that if I took the isolators out, it would actually bring me back down to a 2" lift. Because I've always known to keep them. But I just wanted to make sure

 

I've got stock alloy wheels and a 2" rear/3" front lift. Wondering if a 30x9.5 is gonna fill up my wheel well? Is it going to stick out beyond my flares? I'm going for a more mild look.

Any opinions appreciated. Thanks.

 

It'll look and fine just fine

 

I currently have a 3" lift with new coils and AAL's and I'd like to go up a little bit higher. I was thinking of adding Rusty's 1.75" coil spacers and 1.5" extended shackles in the rear. I currently have the Rusty's transfer case drop installed and was wondering what else I would need to add on to go up more.

I know that I'll need extended brake lines in the rear. I'll probably put in the dakota 4x4 ones.

I'm still running stock upper and lower control arms up front, do I need to get adjustable lowers or are stock ones ok at 4.5" of lift?

I'm trying to do this on a pretty low budget, which is why I'm going with the spacers and shackles instead of an all new higher lift.

 

you def need new lower LCAs, uppers are fine

You'll need brake lines front and rear, and an adjustable trackbar as well.

You'll also need new shocks.

 

You don't think the 3" lift Rough Country Shocks will work?

 

no their 3" shocks are only good to 4" of lift

 

I'm looking into putting some form of axle/gusset on a 30 and 8.25 I'm tossing under the Jeep. I was originally looking at the Rusty's kit. But then I read that it does nothing to strengthen the axle in another thread.

My question is, why not? It's 1/4 steel that seems like it would keep the tubes from bending, and I don't want to be spending $400 on a IRO type truss, I plan on running 32's with the possibility of 33s or 35s down the road.
Thanks,
Jon

 

I don't see why they would say that. Looks like a great solution for extra strength. The primary concern with axles is flexure up and down, and that kit would do a lot to stiffen that. Sure it doesn't help the other direction but that's not as big of a concern. I'd also weld the tubes to the housing to keep them from rotating.

the rear axle you'll want a boxed over-the-diff truss though.

also note with welding mild steel to any cast iron differential - preheating is very necessary

 

Cool thanks Dukie I will look into all of that!

 

Actually did some reading.

The tubes are Steel and the housing are cast iron correct?

Also, using a MIG welder, is there a certain wire I have to use like, Solid Wire or Flux wire steel?

 

Any opinions on the Rock-tek Y-link upgrade kit?? http://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_chero...n_upgrade.aspx

 

center is cast, tubes are mild steel yes

i wouldn't use flux if you can avoid it. I'd recommend solid wire with a nice gas shield mix. You'll want high nickle content wire for welding to the cast (with preheating and slow cooling). Be sure to keep the welds stitched and avoid getting it too hot so you won't end up bending the axle tubes with the weld

 

it's one of the better radius arm setups out there - I really like the high clearance belly skid crossmember.


btw, can you please fix your jeep info to only show one year cherokee (the one that matches the rest of the info). You can put the other ones in your signature but the stretched out info box below your name when you post is quite annoying

 

I'll go nice and slow to prevent over heating. As far as preheat goes. Is it as simple as taking a torch to it and bring up the temp a bit?