Well that "weak" thing is to your benefit lol, stock components last a lot longer when you're closer to stock!

Things to keep your eyes on are driveshaft U joints, bushings, and the front end. Track bar and steering particularly. Most of these old joints have a set life at stock angles and wear a certain way, when they've been tweaked you find the wear is uneven or the joint's pretty much dried up lol. If you can find things to grease, do it now.

Depends on how much your tires are worth to you and your confidence level. My personal experience and recommendation is do the best you reasonably can (driveway alignment) and then take it to a pro. Some chalk and a measuring tape can't compete with a computerized rack lol

 

Exactly, and not everyone has a straight eye. I know for a fact that I don't from years of building bicycles. What looks straight to me is usually off by a few degrees

I recently did a 3" lift and tie rod replacement, PO bent the OEM one when the jack slipped off the pumpkin or so he said. I have been trying to get the front wheels pointed in the same direction for a few days now on my own. The measuring tape says I am within 1/16" but my eyes say I am way out I finally made arrangements for someone to come over and give me a hand to get it close enough to drive the 9 miles to the alignment shop.

I always intended to get it aligned by the shop, but I thought I could get it close enough. I will find out tomorrow if I did

PS For the handle bars I ended up making something like this, because most road bikes you just can't spin the bars around and line up the tire frame and stem.

 

1) DIY alignment,
2) Get free 'printout' from shop (free as long as you tell then to make no adjustments).
3) Bring home and adjust accordingly.
4) If needed, take to another shop for another free printout.

To measure toe, ditch the tape measure, use an extension wand or pole, set it to length on sidewalls at front of tire at hub height. Then compare to rear (set it on top of control arms).
Adjust toe after caster is set and anytime caster changes (toe changes when caster changes)

To center track-bar, use a 4' level at hub height (on rotor or tire), sight horizontally to rear tire, get steering pointed straight and difference is easily seen.

To set wheelbase (if needed) use the stringing method. This can check toe, thrust angle, wheelbase, and track-bar centering (tape measure required).

What is the chalk for?

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...try_stringing/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis...ring-your-car/
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

 

Too lazy and busy to search right now, but just how much cutting would I have to do to fit a set of 33X10.5R15LT with a 3" lift? I was only going to go with 30s, but I may have found a deal on 33s pretty much in my backyard. Also how much back spacing would I need. If it isn't too drastic I may pick then up and start sawing after I get my safety done.

I know I will have to regear, but I will do that in the spring when I get my lockers.

 

33x10.50's on 3.5 ". I traced a line around the outside of the front flares and did the cut and fold on the rear.


One pic pre flare install one post Napier flare install

 

Not sure if I want to cut that much, but I would really like to get the diffs up a bit higher. I know that 33s kind of cross the line into a bunch of other upgrades and mods. With that said 3" more ground clearance over what I have now with stock sized tires is real tempting. I am going to look at the tires this afternoon and make up my mind. I kind of hope they are ratted out and I can put this idea on the back burner till spring Maybe I will just go back to my 30"-31" tire plan

 

Can I reasonably run 12.5" wide tires on stock 15"x7" wheels? I have 33x10.5x15 on stock rims now and am considering bumping up to 35s but want to retain my stock rims. My XJ is a daily driver that I wheel hard on the weekends. I just want to know if I run the risk of having the tire blow off the rim when aired down or if I will have major issues with tire wear that I won't be able compensate for by adjusting air pressure a little. Anyone have experience with this... thoughts?

I am on 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2s.

 

Your gonna want 8" wide wheels with better backspacing

 

^This^

 

I have been running 33x10.5x15 tires on 3.5" lift for 2 years and have wheeled my XJ hard. IMO, 33x10.5 will work on 3" of lift BUT you will need to trim, add bump stops, wheel spacers and maybe gears to get it running right. If you just stuff 33s under your XJ they will rub and you will hate life. If u want the easy option go with 30"-31" tires hassle free but you will always wish you had stuffed those 33" tires under your XJ. The next question is gearing, I ran 3.07s for 2 years and it worked but was not great. If you have an auto with 3.55 gears and don't drive in the mountains a lot you should be fine.

To recap... 33" tires will work but you will need to spend some time and money to get it working right.

Step 1: 33x10.5 no trimming (no power, tires rubbed fenders over every pot hole and small bump)



Step 2: 33x10.5 trimmed fenders ( tires still rubbed control arms and leaf spring bolt in back)



Step 3: 33x10.5 w/ bushwhacker flat fenders (lots of $$$$, lots of time, 4.56 gears, fender flares, bump stops, Durango steering box, Upgraded steering = awesome)

 

I already have 2" wheel spacers so I should be good with backspacing. Why will I want/need 8" wide wheels? Have you ran 35"?

 

Yes I have ran 35's. And 33x10.50's

Your tire will be ballooned out like crazy on a 7" wheel. And tire manufactures recommend 8" wide wheels for 12.50 width tires.

 

I'd take new wheels over spacers 100 times out of 100, but that's a separate debate. As he said, the tires will balloon out, and that puts a lot more stress on the sidewalls. Manufacturers recommend 8-10" wide wheels for a 12.5" wide tire, and most here will recommend 8".

I ran 33x12.5s on 15x10s. I liked the look, but I wouldn't do it again. I have 35x12.5s on 15x8s now, and I'll be doing 37s next on the same wheels

 

Should I go with 8 or 10 inch wide wheels for 33x12.50s. What would be the pros or cons either way??

 

8" wide holds a better bead when aired down.