When I first started wheeling 12 years ago. I ran 10" wide wheels and kept unseating the bead almost every time I wheeled I switched to 8" wide wheels after a year of that bs and have stayed with 8" wheels since then I've only unseated 1 bead in the past 11 years

 

thanks. I don't know how hard I'll be wheeling it but I think I will go with the 8" just so I'll have it for the long run

 

Got another XJ last night after going almost 2 years without one....picked up a 2 door, 5 spd '97 with and 8.25 rear.

I'm about to put a long arm lift under it and I'm leaning towards the 6.5" Clayton long arm package w Bilsteins......is it really worth the extra grand or so over say the RE, IRO or any of the others in that price range?

 

I bought my first xj a month or so back and I need to put tires under it. I've been thinking of going with 32 by 11.50. I like the idea of the new BFG AT but I don't think they come for 15" rims. I live on a working farm so this vehicle will see a lot of road miles plus time spent in the field. It currently has a 3" lift and BFG AT 31x10.50. The shocks are shot and I need new ones as well. My questions are: would 32s be a better fit or 33s? I'm not opposed to trimming but I don't really have the coin to put expensive flares back on (cheaper option other than bushwackers?). Shock recommendations?

 

I did a 2" front with up country springs and a new leaf springs with 3" shackles in the rear. After install I got nasty vibrations from drive shaft due to the new angles from the lift. Added a transfer case drop yesterday and now I have a loud clunk, clunk noise every time I hit a bump or pot hole. Not sure if it's the exhaust or a bad mount. I can't win with this Jeep, almost wished I left it stock.

 

Look in buying a set of 2014 Wrangler Unlimited red shocks, they fit the XJ's. You just have to o buy bar pin eliminators which are cheap but the ride quality is great. They will fit your 3" lift and give a smooth ride as well.

 

You don't even need bpes but I would recommend them for the front for that added droop. I'm not running any with my jk shocks.

 

When running 4-5" of lift, do I need to get a drop track bar bracket?

 

Not unless you have a drop pitman arm. It is not necessary at that lift height. I'm selling my IRO double sheer track bar and bracket if interested.

 

Isn't that a drop bracket though?

 

It is a new bracket, I wouldn't really call it a drop mount unless it is like RC's which has to be used with a drop pitman arm. IRO says it drops the mount .75" to get it parallel with the drag link. I ran it for 2 years and never had death wobble.

 

So a drop pitman arm is not required on a 4.5" lift?
I'm going to be running 4.5" RE coils and a RC long arm kit (yeah I know haha) serious 1 ton UTK steering and a IRO double shear. My long arm kit came with a drop pitman arm and I was planning on reaming it to work with my 1-ton kit. Should I re-use the stock pitman arm instead? I already have all of the mentioned parts except for the track bar. What condition is yours in? and what kind of money are you lookin for?

 

Yes, they come in 32x11.5r15. I think tire package.com has them for about $150 in that size. You may be able to find them for a few bucks cheaper if you look.

 

FYI for no one in particular.
My RockKrawler bracket for trackbar is longer than stock, however the pivot point is the same as stock. It uses a heim joint, the stock bracket uses a TRE and the pivot is underneath the bracket at 'ball' inside of TRE.

 

Right, you don't need a drop pitman arm until you get way on up in lift height. Even then you should have OTK steering and move the axle mount of the track bar OTA as well.

Mine is in good shape. Has some rock love on it, bushings are good, and I welded one side of it to me stiffners. I'll be cutting that off and grinding it smooth before I ship it to anyone. $110 shipped I reckon.