You'll be fine with Jack stands. Use PB blaster not wd-40. A small propane torch will also come in handy for the leaf spring bolts. The upper rear shock bolts are prone to snapping. Apply a little heat, tighten them the to break them free then loosen and remove. Also a large ratchet strap comes in handy when changing and aligning holes for the control arms. Came in handy when I did my lift.

 

I have A Veterans foundation and and we are lifting 2001 Grand Jeep 8" with long Arm Suspension supplied by Clayton and 40" toyo's we are hunting for new Axles for 3,500.00 is this a reality or can we rebuild the stock axels to be bullet proof enough to turn those monsters? also the spindles included in an upgrade?there seems to be very limited rims for this lug pattern thanks. DOCruiz. It will be a daily driver on the hwy .

 

Not a chance in hell on those stock axles. East Coast Gear Supply and Currie seem to be the most popular for buying built axles. I can't speak on their behalf, but they may be willing to work with you on price if the foundation is reputable. I don't know how philanthropic they are.

For 40s, I feel like you should be looking at Dana 60 axles with upgrades. You could install a GM 14 bolt or a Sterling in the rear with mostly stock parts, but you would still need to have the correct brackets installed.

 

40s? I'd be looking for some Rockwells... yes they include spindles.

 

For a DD? I didn't think that'd be necessary or anywhere near their budget

 

I'm assuming axles are a thousand bucks each, whether junk from an old military vehicle or or the type sought after that will fit in an XJ. Granted a 14-bolt can be had for less... I suppose it depends on the market.

40s are pretty freakin' massive

 

Anyone have any experience with zone shocks? Any opinion on hydro shocks or the nitro?

 

Thanks for the input I will start looking in that direction and 60 it is.The other question is the other can the qaudratrac be used still with different Axels? manual locks in the snow is not Cool I am trying to keep the originality to this build as much as possible.

 

If you start talking about hubs, this project can get expensive real quick. I honestly suggest talking with one of the two companies I mentioned above, or contacting a reputable local offroad shop.

I mean this purely as a matter of fact statement: You sound like you're way outside of your comfort zone with this. I suggest talking with professionals, especially since it's for a good cause

 

Just put a zone 3" lift with 31's red letter general grabbers. Looks awesome. Went with the full leaf package. No trimming at all.

 

About to start removing rear components to install lift. What location is best for the jack stands ? Right now I have one side sitting in the jack notch that is on the undesired in front of rear tire.

 

Alright guys, its not often we (staff) get to ask your opinions but looking for opinions on the new BFG KO/2 AT's.
I can get a set of 33x10.50R15's for about 160 a tire. My Mj will be driven on the street and long distance trips (as I'm military) but still have some trail capability.
I've always ran MTs or aggressive AT's but I figure an AT is more feasible than an MT on this rig. Thanks.

 

Pretty much anywhere on the uniframe is okay. For rear end work, I always go just in front of the leaf spring hanger/pocket

I haven't used them, but I've been asking around. It sounds like they took the KO (of which I'm a minority hater) and improved all of its deficiencies. It's still an A/T, so I'm not really interested, but the tread is improved and the sidewall is thicker.

They're supposed to be great.

 

I just installed a 5.5 inch RE in my XJ and noticed that my passenger side sway bar link was loose, no pin. I did notice that the drag link was hitting the sway bar link. What do I have to do now to prevent it from hitting?

 

I bought the trac bar for my lift and the directions state to drill out a hole in the existing mount. However I also read that there is the RE mount you can buy that is supposed to go with it. I will be installing it on a 4.5 zone lift. Also, do I need a drop pitman arm?