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Old Sep 21, 2015, 02:17 PM
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 07:36 AM
  #24451  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
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Trying to help forum member Velcro find a solution to secure the crossmember.
This thread seems to have folks that are very knowledgeable. Can anyone assist with the following?

Originally Posted by Velcro


Technically OEM here. Any advice on what to do? That stud is welded in (and not well) and not threaded all the way, that's why the t-case drop is rigged in there. One idea I got was to get custom nut strips and feed them inside the frame, but I don't own a welder, yet. How big are the nuts inside the frame, how far could I drill them out to and tap?

PS: I did not weld those in there. I wanted to have them either tap the holes or get the bolts out somehow. The studs are in the holes the factory bolts were in.
Original post; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ask...4/#post3101859
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #24452  
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Maybe I was supposed to post this in this thread?

Anyway....link to post:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/3-...oughts-211065/
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 08:28 PM
  #24453  
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Originally Posted by Stabsthedrama
Maybe I was supposed to post this in this thread?

Anyway....link to post:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/3-...oughts-211065/
Looks like this guy did pretty much the same thing. Lays out the build pretty clearly. Same route I'm going to take. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ref...-today-205900/
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #24454  
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Originally Posted by PopsOldXJ
Looks like this guy did pretty much the same thing. Lays out the build pretty clearly. Same route I'm going to take. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ref...-today-205900/

LOL I know, that's the link I've had saved. I went with the slightly taller front coils though, since they dropped to the same price, and add ~1 inch extra. Also since my shackles are so far gone I'll be throwing on lift shackles, so another 1.5-2.5 inches out back. At that point, you get into lift shocks/adjustable track bar territory. Looks like I'll be swapping shocks again. Luckily I recently did them all, so it will be easy, and I can sell the ones I have on now. As far as the track bar, I'll just relocate it.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #24455  
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Originally Posted by Stabsthedrama
LOL I know, that's the link I've had saved. I went with the slightly taller front coils though, since they dropped to the same price, and add ~1 inch extra. Also since my shackles are so far gone I'll be throwing on lift shackles, so another 1.5-2.5 inches out back. At that point, you get into lift shocks/adjustable track bar territory. Looks like I'll be swapping shocks again. Luckily I recently did them all, so it will be easy, and I can sell the ones I have on now. As far as the track bar, I'll just relocate it.
Solid plan, man. Post pics as you go.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 07:58 AM
  #24456  
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Originally Posted by PopsOldXJ
Solid plan, man. Post pics as you go.
Will do! I'm actually going to just fab up some shock extenders for the front shocks. I might either do bpe's for the rears or just buy new rear shocks.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 08:08 AM
  #24457  
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Originally Posted by Stabsthedrama
Will do! I'm actually going to just fab up some shock extenders for the front shocks. I might either do bpe's for the rears or just buy new rear shocks.
The rear swaybar mounts on leaf spring plate work for BPE's. On the front end, they mount to bottom of shock and axle. Rear end, top of shock and chassis.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 08:43 AM
  #24458  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The rear swaybar mounts on leaf spring plate work for BPE's. On the front end, they mount to bottom of shock and axle. Rear end, top of shock and chassis.
Yup exactly what I'm planning .

With doing this I'll gain roughly an inch front and back for shock travel, should that be ok for a ~3 inch lift on stock shocks? I would think so since that guide people have been following gives the upcountry lift of ~2 inches with stock shocks.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 08:00 PM
  #24459  
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Originally Posted by Waynerd
I'll get better ones
rustys i have the same ones....
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:47 PM
  #24460  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Ooooook. Sorry for my redundant asking. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks buddy.
No worries man. How'd it turn out anyway?
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:14 AM
  #24461  
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Default Cherokee sport 6.5 inch lift

Hello I'm new to this forum but I have a 01 cherokee sport lifted 6.5 inches and was wondering if this size 33 would fit?
33X12.5R15LT 108Q my concern is the backspacing
Thanks
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:23 AM
  #24462  
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Originally Posted by Cherokee 01
Hello I'm new to this forum but I have a 01 cherokee sport lifted 6.5 inches and was wondering if this size 33 would fit?
33X12.5R15LT 108Q my concern is the backspacing
Thanks
That depends on your wheels
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 10:52 PM
  #24463  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
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Default SYE install trouble....HELP!

Well I thought the nice weather would help my SYE go in easier. Yeah I got the first snap ring off and the drive shaft off. That strange metal flange and then I tried to take the first cover off. I saw the rubber ring still around the output shaft so I poked in there and....yep, another snap ring. Well the dam metal around the rubber didn't come off and I can NOT get this snap ring out. This is my DD and I need to get to work!

HELPPPP!


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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 01:38 AM
  #24464  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Well I thought the nice weather would help my SYE go in easier. Yeah I got the first snap ring off and the drive shaft off. That strange metal flange and then I tried to take the first cover off. I saw the rubber ring still around the output shaft so I poked in there and....yep, another snap ring. Well the dam metal around the rubber didn't come off and I can NOT get this snap ring out. This is my DD and I need to get to work!

HELPPPP!



Use a hammer to pound a screw driver under the lip, then lift
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 06:00 AM
  #24465  
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From: Hampton Roads
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Originally Posted by peligro113
Use a hammer to pound a screw driver under the lip, then lift
Ok I will try that. Thanks. The lip is very flush to the main cover though. And the metal is only mm thick but very tough.
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