Anyone know off hand the shackle upper and lower bolt sizes? I am going to start working on my home brew shackle relocation brackets in the next few days and want to have the bolts on hand before I start just in case. Right now my XJ is my only insured vehicle so it would kind of suck to have a bolt break and no way to go get a new one

 

Full dimensions? I'm pretty sure they're just leaf spring bolts, if memory serves. If I recall correctly, the following are interchangeable:
Leaf front/rear
Shackle upper
LCA front and back
UCA front and back

Some have different heads or tapered ends, but I think the dimensions are the same.

I could very well be wrong on that, though, as I haven't lifted an XJ in a while.

 

I am looking for the size, thread pitch and diameter. I live in a salt belt so I am sure I am going to have problems pulling them out If I knew I could get them out cleanly I would just measure them, put them back in and go get new ones.
When I replaced my hubs I fought with the drivers side bolt, yet the passenger side came out with no problem

 

Leaf spring fasteners are M14x2.0 120mm long, ISO Class 10.9. Bolts and nuts are flanged heads from the factory, but you can use Class 10.9 or tight-fitting Grade 8 hardened washers (incidentally, Lowe's has 5/8" washers that fit nicely). Beware that M14 in Class 10.9 are hard to find, they're mostly used in automotive applications. There's a specialty fastener shop in Kingston and I cleaned him out when I did my leaf springs. Nobody else had them in stock.

For reference, the LCAs are otherwise identical except 110mm long. 120mm "can" fit if the shoulder is shallow enough. In my case I made the poor decision of using the 120mm long bolts up front, and the nut ran out of thread before contacting the LCA brackets. Hence the emergency washers from Lowe's, and likely one of my death wobble causes. LOL

UCAs and track bar on the axle side are M10x1.5 75mm.

 

Excellent info, as always. Thank you

 

Was just researching this myself as I'm in the process of replacing all the chassis parts on my wife's dd. Google didn't turn up anything on the bolts. If your like me and really like to use flange head bolts and hate using washers I have read several places that the bolts are uncommon most places. That's if you want the exact ones that have the nipple tip also. Also read some opinions on not using SAE bolts. But to each his own.

 

Lol. Thanks. Was a little concerned about the angle of the bar being incorrect in relation to steering if I were to flip it. RC likely intended for it to be mounted that way without even realizing. But then again now that I actually put some though into it the factory bar is opposite. Bushing on the axle and ball joint at the frame only in this case it's a heim.

 

Thanks, that is exactly the information I was looking for, plus some

I know of a couple fastener supply places that have bailed me out more than once by having odd ball fasteners

I just got back from the JY, scrounging for a new to me steering box. The one in the XJ they had was worse than mine, I could make it click and grind just by twisting the steering shaft I did score 4 flares with mounting brackets and a factory gas tank skid though

 

I bought an entire set of the bolts from Jack-it for $40. Came with all three bolts for each spring and a nut for the shackle. 10.9 grade.

 

NAPA carries the flange-head bolts and flange-head nuts. Usually in stock

 

Not my Napa Keep in Mind I am Canadian so I would have to pay shipping to here duties and taxes By the time that $40 bolt package got here it would be closer to $100

The shackle relocation has been put off for a couple weeks any how, I spent my weeks Jeep budget on OEM flares, mounting hardware and an OEM skid plate for the gas tank. Not like I had a whole lot of extra money this week after buying front hubs, diff and axle seals, and 3/4" coil spacers last week. It will take a week or two to replenish the build fund now. I need rear axle bearings too

 

Does anyone think I can fit 35x12.5 with a 4.5" long arm lift kit?
I'd be using wheels with a 4.25" backspacing as well as 1.25" wheel spacers.
I've got 31's right now and it seems like i have some room to grow. But right now it's on stock rims and no spacers.

 

Can fit 35's on 2.5" of lift. Why wheel spacers? Silly. Get proper offset rim (3.75") or adapters. More expensive but proper. Might want to consider tubular LCA's if you haven't already.... Oh yeah.. LA's.. You probably already have LCA's

 

Well I guess the proper way would be stronger hunh? Alright thanks for the advice. Now to start looking for some new wheels...

 

Hope this is the appropriate thread..


Have a 96 Cherokee Sport 4x4. Previous owner trimmed front fender well and rolled the rear. I do not know how much. I have a Rough Country 3" lift with adjustable track bar coming Tuesday. I hope to have wheels and tires ordered tomorrow morning and here by end of week.

I plan on putting 31x10.5x15. I have seen 7 and 8 wide wheel packages. Will one of these benefit me over the other and what offset will I need for each ? With this setup I am looking for my wheels / tires to stick out as little as possible without having any rubbing issues when cranked full left or right. I was told by discount tire direct to go with a 7" wide 0 offset.


I live in CA and I have been told by several people that if I stick my wheels out I will be risking getting a ticket so I want to keep them tucked in. Also I have already done some off roading in red rock through the narrows and I actually liked the narrow stance.


A quick response would be appreciated so I can get these things ordered.