Cool, thanks. I did not pay attention to that the other day when I was talking to you.

 

Just got our 1st jeep and was wondering if tires will fit cause tire places say they wont but I have that size on atm .What I have is 235 75 R15 .I want to order the Same in the Grabbers which I have on my other ride. Love the Tires but want to be safe. Just don't want any rubbing or over size stuff. Grandbaby will be in this sometimes so ....They are saying 225 75 r15. Thanks guy and Glad to be with the Jeep guys and Ladies

 

You can check the driver side door jam, it's listed on the label. Probably a 215 though. Mine is a '99 Classic that came with 215/75. When I bought it, it had 235/75's. You'll be fine with either.

 

I find that too many places rely on what the computer tells them and not what people know. I use to own a 73 'Cuda and blew a rad hose. I went to the closest parts store to get a new rad hose, but all they listed for was a 73 Challenger so they wouldn't sell it to me They were basically the same car, but because mine wasn't listed on the computer the kid said it wouldn't fit. I called over the grizzled looking manager and told him the situation. He just glared at the kid and gave me the hose for half price. It was a perfect fit BTW

 

Many tire shops will only give you what came with the vehicle for safety reasons etc etc. but of course many shops have no problem slapping 33s on a vehicle that came with 215/75/15 lol

 

96 XJ, Rough Country 6.5 inch suspension lift kit, 2 inch shackles in the rear and 2 inch spacers in the front, sitting on 35 inch Pro Comp Mud Terrains, Skyjacker steering stabilizer.

Used to be a daily driver until I purchased my Ford Ranger to save on gas commuting to work. I haven't drove it in nearly 2 months.

I was leaving for work and noticed about a mile down the road the steering/alignment was off. Which is very odd considering I haven't driven it in a while. Another mile or so down the road, I got the dreaded "death wobble" (which I have received in the past from worn tires and alignment) and looked out my driver side window and noticed the tire looked like it was going to break off the flipping axle. I turned around and drove home, but noticed it did it mostly after I had taken a left turn. I'm not very tech savvy when it comes to steering and tires, so, could this be a broken tie rod or ball joint? If it is either of these, is there something I can do to prevent this in the future? Upgrade?

Tires are in good shape only have about 5k miles on them. Lug nuts are on good and tight so I know it wasn't that.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Time for new shoes.. I'm looking at dick cepek mud county's. Both because the price and the tread pattern. And was wondering how they are, from actual owners

 

they'll fit no problem. I've put plenty of em on stock Cherokees including my own

 

I have a 4.5" lift and adjustable upper and lower control arms is there a go to length I can set them to and adjust from there

 

Control Arm Length Application Chart
For Jeep Cherokee (XJ)

Lift...........Lower Control Arms/Upper Control Arms
********Decimal**Fraction**Decimal**Fraction
Stock........15.75.......15 ¾........15.00.......15
2”.............15.92.......16............14.88 .... ...15
3”.............16.09.......16............14.92 .... ...15
4”.............16.33.......16 3/8......15.03.......15
4.5”..........16.47.......16 ½........15.11.......15
5”.............16.62.......16 5/8......15.21.......15 ¼
6”.............16.97.......17............15.44 .... ...15 ½
7”.............17.36.......17 3/8......15.74.......15 ¾
8”.............17.81.......17 ¾........16.09.......16
9”.............18.30.......18 ¼........16.50.......16 ½
10”...........18.82.......18 ¾........16.96.......17


16.5" for lower arms, 15" for upper arms

 

A good ole' WB measurement before the install will help out with getting those numbers... I say go ahead and run em out an inch more and Violà now u have youself an extended wheelbase XJ

 

^ When measuring wheelbase, keep in mind there is a 10mm difference between left and right side. I eliminated the difference with adjustable control arms.

 

Hey guys, just bought my first XJ. Looking to lift it pretty quickly and want some advice and direction for a road stable yet off-road capable setup. I previously owned a '00 TJ with a 4" skyjacker rock ready lift. I'm also a mechanical engineer with some great resources at my disposal for creating what i want. So here's what i'm thinking. I've been reading up on LCOG lifts and i really like that concept. 3ish" lift with 33" tires is my end goal. I know its not super LCOG, but 33s are as big as i want to go for my DD, hoping to still have all the flex though.

Phase 1:
Rubicon Express 3.5" coil springs
Bilstein 5100 10" travel shocks
Sway Bar Disconnects
Progressive bump stops
Rough Country Shackle relocation brackets
Rubicon Express boomerang shackles
Add a leaf spring (if needed depending on rear lift after shackle stuff) or new pack if needed. I want to maintain that stock ride quality if possible and avoid a rough rear end from more leafs....still researching this one.
Extended brake lines (JY pick if i can)
15x8 4" BS steel wheels wrapped in 33x12.5 BFG MT KM2
Trim/Fold fenders and add bushwacker flat style or pocket style flares.
I think this is a good start to get me on bigger tires with minimal effects to steering and drive train.

Phase 2:
OTK custom setup. Should move drag link up 2-3" on axle side, returning closer to normal geometry.
Weld/bolt in a track bar relocation mount on the axle to match OTK geometry and make an adjustable track bar for ease of alignment.
SYE kit with XJ/ZJ front driveshaft depending on needed length.
Skid plates for everything
Maybe the Tcase tummy tuck.
Elocker in the rear and a powertrax or aussie locker (or equivalent) in the front.
4.55 gears while i'm in the diffs
These upgrades should give me better steering performance and potentially flex capabilities. Also the SYE is just for good measure since i need it to be solid on the highway.

Phase 3 is where i'll need more time.
Weld/bolt on new lower and upper control arm mounts for the front in prep for a long arm kit. I really like the double heim joints on my TJ, so I'd want to do that again with a true 4 link setup. I may also look at a 4 link coversion for the rear, but that would probably only come if I upgrade the rear axle from a D35 to a 44 or something along those lines.
Frame stiffeners

Sorry this is probably a bit scattered, its late, and i'm excited to get that stock rig up in the air a bit. Any input and advice is appreciated. Especially if i'm missing something, or am out of step and need certain provisions when i do the initial lift. Thanks! Pics of of the day i bought it.

 

I'm not going to quote that for ease of reading.

Ditch the aal idea, get full leaf packs. Ditch the bushwhakers, 500 bucks of shattered plastic is a real sobering moment. There are cheaper, and in my opinion, better looking flares out there. If you're dead set on plastic flares, Napier precision makes some decent ones, check out aj's offroad. With a little dremel work you can get the tires to tuck under em and you'll have looks, function, and a bill or two extra in your pocket.

For otk you may run into issues with your tie rod hitting your sway bar link mounts on the axle, as well as the trackbar and its mount. You'll have to relocate these as well. Again, In my opinion, you dont need otk. stock steering is fine at 3". Grab an adjustable trackbar (everyone loves IronRockOffroad's double shear), two v8 zj tie rods (keep one as a spare), another stock drag link (as a spare), and you should be fine.

Unless im grossly underestimating the wheeling you'll be doing, you should be fine with the lift you have planned and these changes. Lcog rigs get beat to hell, it just happens. Your best bet for a dd/ww would be to use clearance to your advantage instead of dragging it over things hoping nothing will break.

 

On your phase 1 the sway bars can be disposed of unless you drive like Mario Andretti. My opinion here.

You will have to buy a trackbar, or relocate the stock one.

Add a leaf is fine. Been running mine for a couple years now. Degree shims or degree blocks in the rear to help eliminate drive line vibrations. I run 1.5" blocks that are degreed. Do a great job.

I also run 10 in bilsteins though I can't tell a difference from monroes. LOL.

I am at 2.5 in the front and 3 in the rear running 36" tires.