Sep 21, 2015, 02:17 PM

How-Tos on this Topic

Last edit by: IB Advertising

See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Browse all: Wheels and Tires

All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Sep 25, 2013 | 05:16 PM

#18721

War Eagle

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 3,144

Likes: 3

From: central PA

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by McCaffrey

I might be cutting my front a little more. If I do I'll attempt a fold somewhat like the rear.

if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge

Sep 25, 2013 | 05:37 PM

#18722

chasingSKYLINES

Newbie

Joined: Apr 2013

Posts: 25

Likes: 0

From: south jersey

Year: 1997

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

alright guys now I am torn between mickey Thompson mtz, km2 , or duratracs, mixture of road sand mud and small rocks

Sep 25, 2013 | 06:24 PM

#18723

McCaffrey

CF Veteran

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 1,250

Likes: 3

From: California

Year: 1989

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Eagle

if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge

Thanks.

Sep 25, 2013 | 06:24 PM

#18724

a_shirey

CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 8,272

Likes: 1

From: Baltimore, MD

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Eagle

if you do, after cutting the slits, try using a small hand brake to bend the sheet metal back...i think its more precise and clean than hitting it with a sledge

A crescent/adjustable wrench also works well.

Sep 25, 2013 | 08:28 PM

#18725

Acerwin

Seasoned Member

Joined: Jul 2013

Posts: 384

Likes: 0

From: Clinton, SC

Year: 2001

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L

What is needed to put a 8.25 under my jeep like any special kit or anything?

Sep 25, 2013 | 08:50 PM

#18726

JerrytheJeep

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 1,994

Likes: 8

From: San Jose

Year: 89

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by Acerwin

What is needed to put a 8.25 under my jeep like any special kit or anything?

A tool kit. It bolts right in.

Sep 25, 2013 | 08:52 PM

#18727

NewKindOfClown

Moderator of Jeeps

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 21,029

Likes: 3

From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH

Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep

A tool kit. It bolts right in.

Driveshaft length may be different.

Sep 25, 2013 | 09:02 PM

#18728

Parsnip

CF Veteran

Joined: Dec 2011

Posts: 1,050

Likes: 2

From: Roanoke, VA

Year: 1990

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Driveshaft length may be different.

8.25 and Dana 35 pinion lengths are like within an inch of each other iirc

Sep 25, 2013 | 09:05 PM

#18729

NewKindOfClown

Moderator of Jeeps

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 21,029

Likes: 3

From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH

Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parsnip

8.25 and Dana 35 pinion lengths are like within an inch of each other iirc

Thought so. Wasn't sure.

Sep 25, 2013 | 09:13 PM

#18730

Aljay

Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2012

Posts: 999

Likes: 0

From: Tx

Year: 2001

Model: Cherokee

Engine: I-6

Quote:

Originally Posted by McCaffrey

We have about 10 people in our unofficial group and almost everybody runs 33x12.5 KM2 or Wranglers. One guy has 33x10.5 and there's no difference in what he can do compared to the rest.

That's what I want to run , 33x10 .50 on a 4 " BS 15x8 wheel on my 4" lift .
I will cut the bottom of the fenders and front bumper , Bump stops are in place 2 hockey pucks per side with stock upper snubber . I need to lower the rear stops an inch or two and whittle alittle in the rear .

Sep 25, 2013 | 09:20 PM

#18731

Parsnip

CF Veteran

Joined: Dec 2011

Posts: 1,050

Likes: 2

From: Roanoke, VA

Year: 1990

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Thought so. Wasn't sure.

I only remember that because the 8.8 and 8.25 are like less ruN 1/4 inch different. And the 35 was shorter by less then an inch...makes sense if you think about the size of the ring gear vs pinion length, even though the two are probably not related haha

Sep 26, 2013 | 01:24 AM

#18732

Nick newbe

Newbie

Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 23

Likes: 0

From: Oregon

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by a_shirey

I would assume your track bar is the issue considering you went the cheap and unsafe route of just moving the bottom bolt hole over. Your axle may be staying straight for a while until you turn more. I would bet that your axle is still not centered at 4.5". Get a real track bar from Iron Rock Offroad. Get the double sheer one. Its $200 and worth every penny.

X2 On the IRO Double Sheer.

ok cool thanks a bunch. so after i install the track bar and new tie rods, an alignment should be the last thing for it correct? i was looking into getting a new steering stabilizer as well.

Sep 26, 2013 | 06:19 AM

#18733

a_shirey

CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 8,272

Likes: 1

From: Baltimore, MD

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick newbe

ok cool thanks a bunch. so after i install the track bar and new tie rods, an alignment should be the last thing for it correct? i was looking into getting a new steering stabilizer as well.

A new steering stabilizer isnt needed, but it wouldnt hurt.

You should do a 'driveway alignment' to get it close then have a shower get it 100% accurate.

Sep 26, 2013 | 06:40 AM

#18734

NewKindOfClown

Moderator of Jeeps

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 21,029

Likes: 3

From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH

Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by a_shirey

A new steering stabilizer isnt needed, but it wouldnt hurt.

You should do a 'driveway alignment' to get it close then have a shower get it 100% accurate.

...or a shop?