rlippy001

Just installed my lift yesterday. Did 2.8 inches in the front with coil spacers, and 3 inches in the rear with blocks. I used new stock shocks in the front with shock extensions and s10 shocks in the rear. After that I have a humming/vibration, and under heaving braking a clanky/rattle noise in the drive shaft area. I assume I need a SYE but Im cheap because this is my beater, hence the blocks and spacers, and Im going to drop the transfer case and cross member 1 inch. Think that will solve my problem? No play in the drive shaft so I also assume its not the u joints, and the jeep has a proper alignment. Any suggestions of what the noise is?

A picture

SteveMongr

Yikes... 3" blocks will cause problems and what you are describing is likely 'axle wrap'. The blocks act like a lever and will twist the leaf springs during braking and accellerating. I believe 3" blocks are unsafe. An extended shackle would be better.

rlippy001

Hmmm. So what youre saying is, if I step on the gas hard the axle twist back, or vise versa, hit the brakes and axle moves forward. Where would that cause a binding noise though?

sycoglitch

As the axle goes back and forwards it moves the driveshaft to very unhappy positions. To the point where binding can occur.

dohc91gli

So I'm ready to pull the trigger on a long arm lift for my 2000 classic. Thinking of going with Iron rock after reading countless threads, and reviews. Handling characteristics, flex, strength, ect. ect... Does anyone here have an iron rock long arm setup and feel like chiming in?

NewKindOfClown

josh_edwards6

I've heard that Rustys, Iron Rock, and Rough Country are all made over seas somewhere (China I believe) and that the bushings on them wear out very quickly. I've heard nothing but bad about Iron Rock. I have a friend who had a 6.5" long arm kit from them on his WJ and the only thing from the kit that he still has on it is the coil springs.

NewKindOfClown

Incredibly wrong information, except for your friend's rig. I can't speak for that.

All IRO parts are made in house or by local companies to their specifications. I think even Rusty is all American. Not sure about RC.

The problem with IRO's Critical Path LA kit is that they did something different from everyone else. A lot of people don't trust their idea. For what most CF members do with their rigs, it's perfectly fine.

All that said, look at Serious Offroad.

josh_edwards6

Gotcha. Yeah I heard all that through the grape vine and haven't actually taken the time to research it myself.

Lowrange2

I believe whoever came up with that idea was extremely hungover from the night before.

PocketsEmpty

Are we talking about the caster adjuster (is that what it's called?) That goofy bracket for the upper control arm mount? This thing?



It sure doesn't look safe to me

Lowrange2

The castor adjuster, hardware size, and bushing type. Those are the 3 main reasons I wouldn't run it.

Twinfin

I'm about to purchase the 3" rough country series II lift and looking to install with a couple buddies that I work with at an auto shop. With the 3 inch will I need to get brake line extensions? Also I'm currently running 29's on my xj and wheels are not quite in the budget yet. Think it will look a little small? Thanks

Lowrange2

You don't HAVE to run extended brake lines but it wouldn't be a bad idea.


You be the judge of the tire size. I think it looks small.

josh_edwards6

Brake lines wouldn't be a bad idea. the last thing you want is to loose brakes while wheeling. I'm on 3" and running 31s and still think it looks small. it's all preference.