KChiefin29

So anyways, u joints....is that defintely the problem since that's the only thing anyone thinks it may be?

I looked at them and they seem fine....but probably hard to tell with the naked eye? I moved them around (best I could) to check for play as well.

McCaffrey

Deep Thoughts:
- If you did an SYE I assume you did the CV joint that normally comes alone with it? Did you put wedges on the rear axle to make the rear u-joint angle zero?
- With the xfer case drop you decreased the rear shaft angle but increased the front. Unless you have disconnects the front spins all the time.

Theoretical fixes (do both):
1. Take out the xfer case drop.
2. Add wedges to the rear axle to get the rear u-joint angle to zero.

NewKindOfClown

Shims. Good question.

94XjSport94

Yes you use shims to point the pinion directly at the output of the case.

I have 4* ones. Typically the right number by just eye balling it. Hopefully once my FST SHACKLE RELOCATION BRACKETS FINALLY SHIP, my angle will be perfect.

KChiefin29

Thanks for the advice....I won't be doing the SYE until next week sometime.

I'll look into the Shims....Thanks again.

I was also told that it would be good to replace the front hub/bearing...

Timken....or Precision would be ok as well....also reading of a few folks having decent luck with cheaper brands...
I'll probably do those when I do the new calipers, discs, and pads.

McCaffrey

I mis-read and thought you did the SYE already. But see if you can do the shims and take out the xfer case drop at the same time.

checkmate3001

Well, I have almost a whole lift kit now... So that's nice.

I called the manager and he told me they screwed up and didn't take if off the shelf so the guy loading it just missed my other parts. He also was going to refund me the $103 for the xtreme warranty I never wanted.

Then I got a call from the regional manager. He assured me all of that stuff would be taken care of and to compensate me for having to remove the 3.5" springs and re-install the 4.5" springs they'll refund me $100. I wish I had asked for $250... but I'm thinking I'll ask for a few T-shirts instead.

I'm just relieved that this mess (cross my fingers and pray to God) is finally going to be all over. I'm very eager to never deal with this problem again. I very much hope that I don't have to return any parts. I think I'd rather sell the Jeep than deal with them again.

twisofadoration

So I took my 98 XJ into the shop last week to replace the bushings and they told me I dont have any adjusment shoes on my front lower control arms.. I leave from MD to ME on the 20th and I cant find them online or anywhere locally...

Is there an alternative? Or am I screwed..

Kuro89

The shoes or shims? Just hit up a junk yard for a pair of shoes

SDKmann

Hi everyone, I have some noob questions for ya. I'm looking to do a 2" (or slightly less) lift as well as wheels and tires for my newest XJ but I have no experience with this sort of thing, Im more familiar with sending vehicles closer to the ground. I'm looking at the Rustys budget boost kits for my rig. After searching and trying to find info on these it sounds like Im best off with the shackle style kit as opposed to the add a leaf kind. Rustys recommends adding new shocks with their kits and Im wondering how necessary this is. Will the 2" shackle style lift cause my stock shocks to wear out sooner or do they recommend the shocks for off road performance reasons? I'll hardly ever be in any real off road situations, so consider the wear and tear to be that of just a daily driver street driven car. Also, if this will shorten the life span of my shocks how much shorter would we be talking? Will they be fried within 5k or can I expect at least something like another 30?

Also, just saw Rustys has an option on the budget boost kit to add a steering stabilizer, is that worth the extra $35?

I'm also looking at getting new wheels and tires. I thinking Im most likely going with Cragar V5s or Summit Racings version of the Soft 8s. Both have 3.75" back spacing so Im guessing the lift will help with the clearance but Im still concerned about potential rubbing. The tires Im getting will be the General Grabber AT2s and I've been nervous enough about rubbing that I've thought about just ordering the same size as stock. But I also don't want it to look like I took the tires off a civic and slapped them on the Jeep after its been lifted. But at the same time I really, really don't want rubbing and I also use a roof mounted bike rack so it can't be anything too tall or aggressive or I won't be able to easily get the bikes up there. Any thoughts on tire size taking into consideration my part list?

Thanks in advance for the help, I'd love to be able to order this stuff in tonight.

Slim357

Im at 3" with stock shocks still have 2-3" of drop before i max the shocks out

Tom95YJ

I find this hard to believe. Unless your lca's are hitting the coil buckets or steering is binding or your swaybar is still connected you should be maxxing them out

bhennessee1

I'm gonna call bs too. At 3.5 inches if lift, even with my axle pulled back and my Lcas at a stupid angle at ride height, my shocks max out before anything else binds, and they are made for a 4.5 inch lift.

Slim357

Didnt say I couldnt max them out was saying I can drop the axle 2-3" before they max. Iv had it on jack stands (stands were on the unibody not the axle) to check my 4x4 and the axles fell 2-3" before the shocks stopped the axles

bhennessee1

Oh, that makes a lot more sense, but is dumb. Don't let your shocks be your limit straps. But don't let them be your bump stops either. If you want to get the right shocks, take your old ones off, and put jack stands under the unibody rails, let the suspension droop all the way then measure between your mounting points. Then, find a shock with a real close extended length, and your good. You may have to add bumpstops to keep them from bottoming out, but for most people they're gonna have to have longer bumpstops for their tires anyways.