JerrytheJeep

I wouldn't recommend either of those kits. I don't have any experience with Rough Country, but many people on here don't like their customer service, and they sell a product that they know is not the right size (their leaf springs, which are not included in the kit you are looking at). those kits have AAL's which are not a very good or reliable way to lift a jeep, they wear out quickly and leave you back where you started.

3" lifts and stock tires looks kinda funky. I think you would be better off with a 2" kit, which are generally cheaper. Lifting the rear a little is tricky though.

you might just end up spending the same amount as a 3" kit, but it will probably ride a lot better. for the front you could use spacers, bend your brake lines gently till they're straight, and use your normal shocks. In the rear, I would recommend a set of upcountry springs from Quadratech with a 1" extended shackle. that should set you up nicely!

a_shirey

Spend the money and get the IRO OTK steering kit. Dont get the upgraded 5/8" bolts and then it will be 100% bolt on. Itll only take a few hours to install and it is pure beef. I had it for a little while and it was amazing. Sold it to someone else when i parted my jeep and they're digging it too.

It is well worth the $350. (Dont forget we get a discount for forum members).

NewKindOfClown

$350 is on the cheaper side of the kits I've seen. As Shirey said, it's bolt-on. Most kits aren't.
You saw what crossover steering is, and you described it correctly. It changes the way the front end components connect. OTK take it a step further and flips the tie rod to the top of its mounting points instead of the bottom. It makes it less susceptible to damage from rocks, stumps, or even road debris.

Sorry for not answering last night. I fell asleep.

Marks2000XJ

I am leaning heavily towards this kit. Might be my Christmas present.....

No problem. I went to bed myself. It was late. I did change out the pitman arm this morningf. It was about an inch lower than stock. Took it out for a test drive and it did correct is some but not completely. I was able to go from 40mph to 50mph but still don't feel safe above that.

I found a cheap ZJ pitman arm for $20 a while back so I bought it. That is what I put on. I don't think it was enough drop though. I thing the drag link still needs to go down some more.

I saw IRO has one that is 13/16" drop so that is why I bought the ZJ arm because it was about the same drop and cheaper. They make one that is 2.5" drop but that seems way too much drop(but maybe not) and it cost like $159 so I might as well do the OTK upgrade.

All this being said, for now I still need a cheap quick fix for this problem. Another pitman arm with more drop and does not cost an arm and a leg? If it went down another inch it probably would be alright. But I am not paying $160 for a pitman arm. That seems crazy.

Anyway, any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

NewKindOfClown

I love IRO. Good prices, quality products, and excellent service in my experience.

For a quick fix, you need to lower the drag link or raise the track bar to the top of the axle.

a_shirey

X2 on IRO. I buy as much there as i can.

DieselD

I can also recomend the IRO otk kit.

I haven't installed it yet, but it's stout. I'd recomend the 5/8ths upgrade if you can stand drilling for a little bit. Just the knuckles and pitman arm. The bigger side of the taper is already 5/8ths (I think).

Marks2000XJ

I put the ZJ pitman arm on and it did lower it from 3/4" to an 1". Not sure the exact amount but somewhere in that range. It did cure it some but not completley.

I checked my caster angle according to this article:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

If this guy is right then my caster is off by about 5.25 degrees. I measured 10 degrees on the differential. It needs to come down some I think. It appears to be pointed up too high according to this guys chart.

I was reading that this can cause bump steer as well, assuming that is what I am experiencing. I have adjustable upper and lower control arms. Does it make a difference which arms (upper or lower) I adjust to correct the caster?

In case you are wondering, I do not have the front drive shaft in. I took it off and installed it in the rear when I installed my SYE. Will pick another at the jy when I get time.

Marks2000XJ

They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here is a picture of my front end. Does the track bar and drag link angles look pretty close?

a_shirey

I held up a piece of paper to them...look pretty close to me.

Marks2000XJ

I re-adjusted the toe in just now. It was off by a little. Drove it up and down the highway and got up to 55mph. Feels a little better but still not what I am looking for.

It feels like if you make any sudden move with the steering wheel the jeep is going to shoot off in whichever direction you steer it or flip over (yes my sway bars are connected). It is not slow and smooth. You really have to be super careful which I don't feel is normal. I don't know if it just because the lift height is new to me and takes some getting used to or what. I definitely see a steering upgrade in the future. But for now this kind of sucks.

a_shirey

You cant go whipping around corners in a jeep with 5.5" of lift. Dont expect it to ever ride or steer like stock again.

How are your TREs?

Jack up the front end and have someone turn the steering wheel while you look for loose parts and such.

Maybe your steering box is shot.

Marks2000XJ

I know you can't drive it like a sports car. I don't plan on it either. I guess you would have to drive it to see what I am saying.

I just recently put a brand new steering box in along with the IRO steering box brace that is sandwiched in between the steering box and frame. On the other side is a 1/4" piece of steel that is my bumper bracket with the steering box bolts going through it so my box won't get ripped off the frame hopefully.

Tie rod ends are good. Only one that may be questionable, and only because is has not been changed, is the one that is at the end of the drag link and is a permanent part. At the pitman arm is a tre that is from IRO as well as the heavy duty tie rod with new ends from them as well.

Ball joints feel tight. No movement when the wheels are jacked up off the ground and you try to see if there is play in them. Everything seems as it should be. I will say the control arm bushings on the axle need to be replaced and I was prepared to do this while I had everything apart but the auto parts stores here did not have any in stock. They would have had to order them and I could not wait. But I don't feel like that is the problem because it was not doing that at 3" of lift. Only after lifting it to 5.5" did the steering become super sensitive.

It steers really well as far as no issues turning with the 33" tires. I can steer it with one finger. Just don't try and make any sudden moves or it feels like that thing has a mind of it's own.

Cnwxj

That sounds like an alignment issue for sure.

a_shirey

Wait...you do have new upper and lower control arms right? They are needed at 5.5".

I would do what he said and do an alignment since its free. Then the control are situation.