Finally getting around to upgrading from my crappy short arm to a long arm system. Was thinking the Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty. What are the major differences between a 3 link, 4 link and radius systems? I'm really just looking to improve my ride quality and long arm systems are recommended for lifts over 4" anyways. Ease of install is key, not looking to rebuild my entire front end. I don't do any super hardcore crawling so I'm not looking for something more geared towards that type of action. Appreciated.

 

I've done alot of looking and like the stinky fab best

Radius only on a very tight budget

 

You will be happier with long arms. The question of which style will depend on your budget and what outcome you want. The Y link was the first if the cheaper systems to come out. I built one, it worked. For the average guy that doesn't want to do a lot of off roading it is adequate and probably what you will want. That is the most bang for the buck. However if you start flexing it a lot then you will start going through upper bushings since they are smaller. The ultimate is a full three link. It makes the bumps smoother than with a Y link and is the flexiest of the systems. We have some 15mph speed humps I travel across regularly. The three link takes them much smoother than the Y link. Steering remains smoother throughout the suspension travel too. But three link stuff will be more expensive and in the end it will depend on what you want to spend

 

Dang, that Stinky Fab 4 Link kit is the way to go. 7075 long arms with Johnny's.

 

Stirring the pot.

For what you stated CADs are 1/3 the cost of long arms. Ride is greatly improved. Their only hangup is they can potentially get stuck on obstacles. Never seen it myself but others have reported it. Rocky Road Outfitters CADs have a bracket that ties the drop into the cross member with a built in angled slide to help against that problem.

With RE 4.5 coils, 5100s, RRO CADs hitting speed humps/bumps was a pleasure 15-25mph with no harshness at all. Used to purposely speed up it was so nice.

 

I had looked into this. From what I've come to understand, control arm drop brackets hang as low (possibly lower) than a full long arm kit, do make for a softer ride, but don't have the range of longs. Way I look at it is if I'm going to put the work into this, why half-*** it when I can full-*** it.

 

Well, if you cross the speed bumps at greater than 3x their posted speed, their effect is negligible........



half assing it......

Well, $150 cor CADs, or 4-5x more for long arms.......up to you.....it's your money.

I put on CADs as an experiment in ride quality 3 yrs or so ago.......with the intent of going to long arms if the ride was improved.....they are still there today.

Things changed, and I no longer go off pavement more than a dirt road you could pretty much drive a car down.....so no need to spend more money at this time.


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At this point I've done enough reading to get a slightly clearer idea of what I want.

4-link long arms are a bit of a niche thing as they're real hard to fit under your XJ unless you have some serious lift on it.
3-link long arms are pretty much what everyone wants/says to do. They can require a bit more work to install, but their flex is unmatched and wont bind up once you get to those extremes. The unlikely but big issue is if your upper control arm explodes for some reason your SOL and things just got really expensive really fast.
Radius long arms fall a little shy of 3-links and people love to rip on these. Installation is super easy. Their flex is good, but if your looking to do some serious flexing akin to a 3-link setup, you run into binding issues and your axle wants to twist.

Now most of my wheeling is distance oriented through rivers and mud or long dirt roads vs obstacle climbing and boulder hopping. I don't necessarily need the potential a 3-link has to offer and I'd probably be fine with a radius setup, but I'm a nitpicky SOB so I'd love to hear more and do some more research.

 

For what you say you do, CADs would be a good choice (cost and function).....and I'd get some WJ lowers if you have larger tires (lowers only, uppers won't work), as they are bent inward for tire clearance.

That's what I've been running and I have no complaints.

 

I have some 33.5s with a 4.5" lift. Which ones did you get? I imagine any WJ lowers with the bend in them would work? Now I have to do some reading on ball joint ends or bushings. Time to make more coffee...

 

https://www.stinkyfab.com/products/s...ep-xj-cherokee

 

I'm running either 255/70r18s or 255/75r17s (both 32's) now on ~ 4" lift....depending on what week it is.......................

I went rough country for the CADs......not too $$$ if I decided I didn't like them.

On the lowers, you will have to remove some of the material on the bushing center sleeves....the WJs are wider than the XJ.....belt sander or grinder makes it easy, just go slow and have a bucket of water nearby to cool them off so you don't hurt the bushing. Maybe 1/8" on each side of each bushing.....

You can see them pretty good in this pic....

 

I cant help it I'll share. My arms at less than 3" lift raised axle side.

Cant wait to run it.

 

I took some measurements and I think I'll probably go the CAD route for now as I'm just looking to improve the ride stiffness. What type of ends did you go with for you lower arms? Bushings or jointed?
A 3-link would be awesome but I just don't think I can justify the expense right now. Can always go bigger later right?

 

I used these and the factory rubber bushings that came in them.....but you do have to grind the sleeves down some to fit the XJ mounts.



I tried to use the uppers, but they are curved the wrong way, so I went back to XJ uppers.....works great.

You can probably find them cheaper.....