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Yesterday was new tire day. I got 31 x 10.50 Duratracs and put them on a set of Turbines that I had done by a wheel restoration shop. The price ($125 CDN) per wheel was well worth it. I couldn't have restored them to anything close to what the shop did.
Hi: 2000 Cherokee Sport. I was just going to try to adjust the manual idle stop screw. I found this plastic spacer beneath the throttle body, that has a football-shaped hole! Also, the gasket on the bottom was broken and half pulled into the intake manifold! Is this a stock item? It looks the the heat and vacuum deformed this thing! I put up a video. I’ll try to attach the link. Anyway, auto parts had the gasket, and shorter screws now that the throttle body is an inch lower. And, it’s running smoother! Duh.
The reason taking it apart in the first place is; this thing stalls sometimes, usually warming it up. I think the computer loses control of the Idle Air Control solenoid, and it slams shut with the vacuum. I thought, if I open the throttle valve a bit, instead of it being almost completely closed itself, it would pass enough air to keep it running at low speed until the computer gets control of the IAC again. I think that worked, BTW.
Yesterday was new tire day. I got 31 x 10.50 Duratracs and put them on a set of Turbines that I had done by a wheel restoration shop. The price ($125 CDN) per wheel was well worth it. I couldn't have restored them to anything close to what the shop did.
I NEVER get tired of looking at your two door!
So awhile back, I broke the plastic throttle & Cruise cable holder that goes on the valve cover.
So being of the mind this is something I more than likely can't find new I decided to make my own.
I used a couple Russel Plumbing tubing clamps, and just a small piece of aluminum bar stock.
Drilled a few holes, and taped the ones for the 8-32 screws for the clamps.
I will probably paint the bar stock to match the valve covers??
Did all the get ready stuff to my not Jeep so I can pull the engine and trans. I'll be doing some work on the engine, and Hughes will be rebuilding the trans. Once that project is done I can get to work rebuilding the Jeep engine. Too many cars, not enough hours.
So awhile back, I broke the plastic throttle & Cruise cable holder that goes on the valve cover.
So being of the mind this is something I more than likely can't find new I decided to make my own.
I used a couple Russel Plumbing tubing clamps, and just a small piece of aluminum bar stock.
Drilled a few holes, and taped the ones for the 8-32 screws for the clamps.
I will probably paint the bar stock to match the valve covers??
Thanks! My XJ is actually a Limited but it doesn't look like one. The previous owner stripped all of the gold off of it which is what I would have done too. I added the chrome badges, etc. and made it look more like a base model.
That's an interesting fix on the throttle cable. That's not going to break. I like it! I had a problem with my cable last week. The ball/clip attachment at the engine end of it broke and wouldn't stay on. The pedal went flat to the floor. I put one from a '94 XJ on it for the time being. It's about a foot longer but will will work until I source a proper one. I'll keep an eye on the holder.
I've had my 2002 GC since September, and it's consistently had a battery drain issue. The battery looked pretty old, and I couldn't find any install dates on the thing, so I took the opportunity to get that replaced.
Putting a code reader on the car, the only code was/is a bad right air bag sensor. The air bag light's on, so that made sense.
Anyway, I do have a couple of multi-meters, so it was time for testing. My clamp meter showed that, with everything connected, there was 3 amps of AC going into the battery. The code reader showed alt voltage at 13.45 vdc.
The negative battery cable was then pulled to check parasitic draw. At this point, I did something incredibly dumb after clamping the battery neg post and letting the other lead touched the pos post, blowing the 10 amp meter fuse. I was lucky not to fry the meter. So I had a couple days of downtime chasing a new fuse. Meanwhile, I already had seen enough issues with the 20 y.o. alternator to replace it and take that possible problem off the board.
Ok, back to testing. Parasitic draw after clamping the test leads and waiting was a consistent 1.46 amps, which is pretty bad. One thing that I noticed was that the radio, lighter, etc. was powered in both Acc and Off ignition key positions. The radio is fortunately stock.
Anyway, I didn't want to just assume that that the ignition switch was bad, which was tempting. Going through the tedious work of pulling every #!@$%!! fuse and relay in the beast, three items hit the jackpot. Fuse 8 exterior (ignition sw/starter), Fuse 5 interior (radio amp), and the BCM relay. Fuse 5 dropped the draw by 800 ma, Fuse 8 was good for 700 ma, and the relay showed a 300 ma drop when pulled. I reasoned that the relay drop was probably related to the other two live circuits. Pulling both fuses 8 and 5 above killed the amp draw.
Pulling the radio (basic model) had the same effect as pulling the fuse. The draw was now 700 ma. Testing the radio harness pin connections didn't show any obvious shorts, but all three + power pins were live in ignition off and acc positions, and I think only two are supposed to be hot in off. Anyway, one problem down.
PCM fuse 8 was still hot. I tried the obvious, disconnecting the alternator, starter and solenoid cables, no dice. I pulled the interior fuses again, including the interior fuse for the ignition switch. That somehow reset the ignition switch (or BCM) and eliminated the amp draw. Shazam.
Two retests show no furthrr battery drain problems. I believe that the radio head unit/amp went bad, and I'm fortunate that it didn't permanently bugger up the rest of the system.
Last edited by BurgherKing; Nov 15, 2021 at 02:08 PM.
I've had my 2002 GC since September, and it's consistently had a battery drain issue. The battery looked pretty old, and I couldn't find any install dates on the thing, so I took the opportunity to get that replaced.
Putting a code reader on the car, the only code was/is a bad right air bag sensor. The air bag light's on, so that made sense.
Anyway, I do have a couple of multi-meters, so it was time for testing. My clamp meter showed that, with everything connected, there was 3 amps of AC going into the battery. The code reader showed alt voltage at 13.45 vdc.
The negative battery cable was then pulled to check parasitic draw. At this point, I did something incredibly dumb after clamping the battery neg post and letting the other lead touched the pos post, blowing the 10 amp meter fuse. I was lucky not to fry the meter. So I had a couple days of downtime chasing a new fuse. Meanwhile, I already had seen enough issues with the 20 y.o. alternator to replace it and take that possible problem off the board.
Ok, back to testing. Parasitic draw after clamping the test leads and waiting was a consistent 1.46 amps, which is pretty bad. One thing that I noticed was that the radio, lighter, etc. was powered in both Acc and Off ignition key positions. The radio is fortunately stock.
Anyway, I didn't want to just assume that that the ignition switch was bad, which was tempting. Going through the tedious work of pulling every #!@$%!! fuse and relay in the beast, three items hit the jackpot. Fuse 8 exterior (ignition sw/starter), Fuse 5 interior (radio amp), and the BCM relay. Fuse 5 dropped the draw by 800 ma, Fuse 8 was good for 700 ma, and the relay showed a 300 ma drop when pulled. I reasoned that the relay drop was probably related to the other two live circuits. Pulling both fuses 8 and 5 above killed the amp draw.
Pulling the radio (basic model) had the same effect as pulling the fuse. The draw was now 700 ma. Testing the radio harness pin connections didn't show any obvious shorts, but all three + power pins were live in ignition off and acc positions, and I think only two are supposed to be hot in off. Anyway, one problem down.
PCM fuse 8 was still hot. I tried the obvious, disconnecting the alternator, starter and solenoid cables, no dice. I pulled the interior fuses again, including the interior fuse for the ignition switch. That somehow reset the ignition switch (or BCM) and eliminated the amp draw. Shazam.
Two retests show no furthrr battery drain problems. I believe that the radio head unit/amp went bad, and I'm fortunate that it didn't permanently bugger up the rest of the system.
Sometimes is is relatively easy to disconnect the ignition switch harness and test continuity between pins in each key position to find if the switch is bad.
OK so I get that anybody could do whatever they want to their Jeep.
But I can't even begin to tell you how much I hate those.
Every time I see a set on the back of a Jeep all I can think is what did that poor Jeep ever do to you. LOL.
Sometimes is is relatively easy to disconnect the ignition switch harness and test continuity between pins in each key position to find if the switch is bad.
Thanks, if the problem comes back, I'll do exactly that.
The only remaining glitch now is the air bag light. My scanner indicated a right front sensor fault. I did swap that out to no avail, so there is probably a wiring or clockspring issue that'll have to be tracked down.
Throttle body spacer
More on that latter.
Panamint Valley Days!
