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High pressure hose decided to start leaking a couple days ago. Replaced both, and lower radiator hose since the upper blew a couple months ago. Nice messy afternoon.
I don't think your radiator is the issue. Here's a link from someone with some (not all) of your problems in an XJ: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cra...7/#post3607906
It sounds like a ground/short issue. The only possible good news that it doesn't have the makings of a steering column clockspring failure.
1999 XJ, sprayed the underside with Fluid Film to get it ready for the winter.
Next winterizing chore was to put in new antifreeze and a new thermostat. Removed lower hose from radiator to drain, removed old thermostat then put housing back on, flushed cooling system out using Peak flush kit and garden hose. Then used compressed air in the heater inlet hose to force out as much tap water (actually well water) as possible. Cleaned out overflow tank. Then installed new thermostat and gasket, put in 1.5 gallons of antifreeze, topped up with distilled water. Ran engine with radiator cap removed and put in more distilled water when the level went down. Put on radiator cap and brought engine up to operating temperature. Heater is working great. Will check coolant level tomorrow with engine totally cooled down.
I used a NAPA 195 degree thermostat which, surprise, was not "Hecho en China". (Was actually made in Israel, go figure.) I was surprised that the gasket cost almost as much as the thermostat, but it's a made in USA FelPro gasket that calls for no sealer to be used. Normally I use Permatex #2 on thermostat gaskets but I took a leap of faith and installed the FelPro without sealer and no leaks! (Of course I cleaned up the thermostat housing and mating surface on the engine real good.)
No leaks, no overheating, so fingers crossed I think it'll be good for a while after topping up the system in the morning.
I used a NAPA 195 degree thermostat which, surprise, was not "Hecho en China". (Was actually made in Israel, go figure.) I was surprised that the gasket cost almost as much as the thermostat, but it's a made in USA FelPro gasket that calls for no sealer to be used. Normally I use Permatex #2 on thermostat gaskets but I took a leap of faith and installed the FelPro without sealer and no leaks! (Of course I cleaned up the thermostat housing and mating surface on the engine real good.)
There have been a couple bad out of the box threads on aftermarket thermostats over the years.
When I first got my '00 I had put in a new Napa one too. The cheap one.
At the time I wasn't aware of the bad out of the box thing.
Well that was over 8 years ago and everything works as it should.
And I used a FelPro gasket too with no gunk.
There have been a couple bad out of the box threads on aftermarket thermostats over the years.
When I first got my '00 I had put in a new Napa one too. The cheap one.
At the time I wasn't aware of the bad out of the box thing.
Well that was over 8 years ago and everything works as it should.
And I used a FelPro gasket too with no gunk.
The thermostat seems to be working OK but of course I've only run it a very short time. It's NAPA's standard type thermostat not a "high performance" job. I think it cost $6.95 and the FelPro gasket was $5.95. The old thermostat is stamped "Made in USA" and didn't look too shabby, I'm keeping it just in case.
Pulled the alternator (it looked like a 2002 original) as a preliminary task to tracing down a parasitic battery drain issue. The old alternator was still pushing out about 13.7 volts, but with some ac current on the meter reading, so that was a red flag.
I have a 2002 GC with the 4.0L. Everything was pretty accessible once the radiator top hose was unhooked and pulled out of the way. I did have to pry the old unit from the bottom to get it out of its cradle. I don't know how some of the YouTube dudes manage to just lift their old alternators out, but some of those things are suspiciously shiny for 20 y.o. parts.
Anyway, fuse pulling and meters are on the agenda this week.
I converted the cooling system of my 89 XJ from a closed to open system. I did it to my 88 MJ a few months ago and now have a "real" rad cap for both. I replaced the same basic parts; 91+ radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat and housing, all of the hoses, serpentine belt, etc. I back flushed the heater core and converted the RENIX pressure tank into an over flow tank. While I was at it I replaced the valve cover gasket and did Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod | cruiser54 . I also changed the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
I also removed the air conditioning. It worked (so so) but I never used it. It's nice to have the extra space under the hood.
Now both are the same and have good cooling and heat for the bad weather that's coming ...
Been cleaning all the tin for the engine today............YUCK! That stuff was just nasty!
The valve cover has a really nice thick film of what appears to be rust, just one problem........................ It's aluminimum!
Also got the new engine on a stand to start throwing oil pump, timing cover, valve cover, dip stick all on it.
OH! And I think I am going to paint it AMC metalic blue engine color just like my 401, and 360 for my SJ Wagoneer's?
The thermostat seems to be working OK but of course I've only run it a very short time. It's NAPA's standard type thermostat not a "high performance" job. I think it cost $6.95 and the FelPro gasket was $5.95. The old thermostat is stamped "Made in USA" and didn't look too shabby, I'm keeping it just in case.
I purchased the THM 269 one with the FelPro gasket. I work there, well should say worked there now cause I am retired now, and get a discount so.....