I replaced my battery and cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay. Made sure all the electrical connections were tight!

 

hee

 

I had the same reaction.
Of course I don't know why I am laughing cause I probably did the same thing along time ago.

 

Replaced both heater hoses, flushed the core. Replaced the 160* with a 195* (parts store error last year), replaced housing, and serpentine belt.

 

Put original factory 195f thermostat back in. Coolant saying up around 210 where it belongs.

 

I did. Last year, i did a 160 by mistake. Parts store sold as a 195, i came home and had it all apart. Meant to correct sooner. Temp is around 200-210. Probably will have better fuel economy as well

 

I replaced the radiator, hoses, and thermostat November 2019, so it's been running cold for a year. Mileage has been around 14/15 mpg, which was a lot better before the new thermostat.

When I checked this Murray 195f unit, it seemed to open right. But checking the OE MOPAR unit I found that the center doesn't get to 195 until the water is boiling. So use that as a guide for checking these. One (forgot the brand) I got from Rock Auto failed obvious enough for me to notice. Got the Murray from O'Reilly that day and got a refund on the other one.

Anyway, looks great now. Gauge gets up to the middle of the range around 210 and stays there.

 

I pulled my roof rack off Friday before I took it to the paint shop. Cleaned it yesterday and painted it today. Looks really good too considering I used Rust-oleum.

 

I've been playing with ferrite magnets and wire farrels (sp?) trying to eliminate the alternator whine which occurs when my sub amp is plugged in. I'm still dialing that all the way in. Changing out the RCAs to a shielded, twisted pair cleaned up the signal considerably. I'm getting clean power via the multi and my grounds are good. At this point it's reduced by about 40-50% so I'm still working on it.

Last week I changed the plugs, distro cap, and cleaned out the throttle body. Added some SeaFoam to the crank case because I can hear a sticking lifter, and I know eventually I'm just going to have to pull the head for a gasket anyways but um yeah, that can wait for now.

 

If all else failed. Try one of these.
RCA ground loop isolator.
Dig around and you can find the PAC for under 10.00

 

I already tried this:
and this:
Neither work for me. The more expensive one "worked" by totally eliminating all throughput to the sub, in other words no bass, Batman.

I'm going to swap out amps for one my room mate has lying around just to see if it's the amp for some reason, but it'll have to wait until the weekend now.

 

So it being the off season figure try to lay the ground work for some projects for the Spring.
One is the 3D printed switch panel that wizardpc designed for utilizing the wasted garage door
opener space in an overhead console. See it in the lower left.
I want to put lighting on my brush guard and maybe some in the back.
I figure take apart all my switches, check for melting and try to make 3 that will work.
The switches on the upper left in the picture are rear fog light switches from European Jeeps.
I figure try to use one of those for the rear lights cause if you look close see how the symbol is reversed?
But the switch itself does not operate like a fog light switch. It is spring loaded like a rear defroster switch.
So I am thinking just use the toggle with a regular fog light switch.
Also I really only need 2 spots but thinking I might put in 4 switches and wire them up anyway.
Wire them up completely, including a relay, with the exception of to lights from the relay. Cause there won't be any lights. LOL.
But in case I change my mind I scoffed some blanks from a TJ that could fill the unused spots.
See in the lower right.
The switch panel does seem a little fragile. So I just want to clip the switches in there the one time if possible.
Like I said check for melting inside and can check the bulbs for continuity with a meter.
Then next Spring when it gets warm just make sure they work but plugging them into my front fog lights and check.

 

Will one of the many switches be used as a jump button? An actual JUMP button,,, so your jeep can jump over stuff....

My Aunts ex husband had a Grand National about 30 some odd years ago and he told me one time that it had a jump button, and to "NEVER push that button right there" hahahaha. this is when I was about 8-9 years old or so hahaha

 

You mean like in the cartoon Speed Racer when the things used to come out under the car
and he would jump stuff?
There is an idea. LOL.


Maybe a James Bond seat ejector switch too.

 

Loop isolators are a last ditch effort.
I am still going with a bad ground or your choice of spark plugs.

Here is a decent overview from crutchfield.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-BPCn1w...ion_guide.html
Wish I lived near by.