hey, where’d you find the USB port used in your switch panel? I searched high and low. Also, did you wire to your parking brake, or did you find another solution?

 

For the parking brake lock out I used a PAC TR1 module.
The usb port is from Amazon and a small adapter bracket I 3d printed.


You can see there is a small gap around the usb plug and the factory panel. This was an early test for fitment. The one I ended up using I printed in black.

 

Metra kits. Trusted here since the mid 1970's!
I wonder if anyone has put in differential cams for self-spotting the clearance, yet. :P

 

Day 7

I have been under the hood frequently since I drove Scarlett to her new home a week ago. Hoping against hope, I would watch for the "under hood" light to magically illuminate whenever I needed to look into the engine compartment. Of course, this never happened. There is no reason to suspect that anyone of the previous owners would have paid enough attention to detail to maintain this almost after thought of an appendage. I could see that the lens cover was caked in 22 years of filth and grime with a v shaped crack right in the middle, yet I yearned for even the faintest glow. It did not, so I formulated a plan.

Before doing any research, I unplugged the connector from the light housing. The housing detached from the base plate relatively easily. As I held the light assembly in my hands, I tilted it back and forth as well as side to side, exposing several interesting noises. With a small, pocket sized flat headed screw driver, I slowly pried up and around the base of the lens. One of the corners was already broken though the other three held firm. With slight pressure, each corner was raised and the lens removed. I let the lens soak in warm, soapy water while I inspected the rest of the housing. I found remnants of a long ago broken light bulb and more corrosion than rocker panel from a 1988 XJ living it's last days in the upper midwest. After buying a new bulb and testing for power at the plug, I attached that plug to the light and housing. I had done minimal contact cleaning and was not surprised when the light didn't light. Step B was to refer to CherokeeForum for information. You guys did not let me down and I followed these directions:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f30/un...ch-fix-223153/

I sat at my desk, pried things apart, and gingerly proceeded step by step. I used tri-flow instead of WD40. The brass insert was very delicate and began losing it's shape as I began removing it from the bullet shaped gravity switch. Also, I wire-brushed the entire "bullet" as well as the removable lower metal contacts. I also did what I could to remove the green/blue corrosion from the upper contact areas with a tiny brush. The results are below. I just want to say, I really appreciate this forum!

MrTodd



Cleaned and serviceable Under Hood Light Assembly 1999 XJ



Under Hood Light Assembly 1999 XJ tested for proper operation with 9v battery

 

After driving out and back from Ouray, the plate that keeps the tilt steering tight worked its way loose. So for the past three days I've been tracking down the tools and watched countless videos on how to fix it.
I have the tilt back together, but need to get a couple of things that got broke in the process. I'll be headed to the salvage yard in the morning..

 

I'm having the same problem. Which video or tutorial did you find most helpful?

MrTodd

 

Nickln Time Films. Does one on his 89 xj.. I don't care for some of his language, but he does a good job with the explanation of the steps he takes to do the job.

 

Wrapping up interior mods, working on the switch panel today.

Upgrades:

1. USB port for CarPlay
2. USB port for charging (via a 12V to 5V adapter from Amazon, powered by the cigarette lighter cord.)
3. Fog light switch
4. New power outlet, thanks Walmart—had no idea I’d have to destroy my old switch panel to reuse the OEM outlet.

One more switch opening for a future upgrade, courtesy of a new 3D printed switch panel from eBay.

 

CEL came on the other day.. Check the gas cap…. It was loose.. Checked the code when I got home.. It was EVAP large leak.. Went off on it’s own today…

 

If you can find the blank out of a TJ switch bezel you can at least fill the hole till the time comes for the upgrade.
I am talking about what is in the lower right in the picture.

 

Thanks for the tip! Found one on eBay for 6 bucks.

 

So I spent the majority of my vacation week out of it on pain meds following extensive dental surgery. During my recovery I managed to get my Moroso Kickout pan on along with the Melling HV oil pump. Anticlimactically enough, my oil pressure switch is not working so I have no idea what kind of pressures it's getting currently. Since there is an NPT fitting on the side of the pan I am thinking about adding a digital aftermarket one, I guess I'll find out then. She's a nice pan though. Now my oil capacity is 7.25 qts, it doesn't leak, etc. I love how on everyone's site it says that the product "will not fit your 98 Jeep XJ" but yet it drops right in with absolutely no mods necessary and all I had to do was drop the front axle about 2 inches for clearance. I'll try to get some pics up in the morning.

I am still searching for the actual plug and wires that go from the engine harness to the oil pressure sensor *it's a gauge not an idiot light* on my 98 Sport. I keep ordering hopeful candidates and they aren't the right ones.

 

I can relate to oral surgery. When my wisdom teeth were removed I didn't feel like doing anything for almost a week.

 

Used it for something other than wheeling.

 

Hopefully no need for longer bump stops.