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Jeez I hope so too man, hate chasing down the DW...
There's only so many things it can be, right?
As I said I've already replaced the hubs (timken) and ball joints (spicer), and after that I got DW. Previous Owner put in an IRO adjustable trackbar so that should be good, right?
So that basically leaves the tie rod ends if new tires don't fix it? I had the parts in my shopping cart to do the GC tie rod conversion but skipped it.
As I said I've already replaced the hubs (timken) and ball joints (spicer), and after that I got DW. Previous Owner put in an IRO adjustable trackbar so that should be good, right?
So that basically leaves the tie rod ends if new tires don't fix it? I had the parts in my shopping cart to do the GC tie rod conversion but skipped it.
Any one or all eight control arm bushings(my sport), tie rods(my gold one), cracked track bar bracket, blown shocks/steering stabilizer, etc, etc, etc...
Anything that has play can start the oscillation, leading to some degree of DW. Curse of having a solid axle front end.
Any one or all eight control arm bushings(my sport), tie rods(my gold one), cracked track bar bracket, blown shocks/steering stabilizer, etc, etc, etc...
Anything that has play can start the oscillation, leading to some degree of DW. Curse of having a solid axle front end.
Started n replacing the freeze plug in the side of the block, the previous owner put one of those rubber ones in and now it's leaking like crazy all over the driveway.
I did this project about a month ago. I also had the leaking rubber plug. Must be common knowledge with some mechanics that this is a quick easy way to replace the freeze plugs.
The PO bypassed the cooler in the radiator, which I will make right at some point after I find some new lines. He installed a tiny aux. cooler on the LH side, so it was only getting airflow at a stop if you had the AC on. Ugh.
Fixed. Put a 21X10.5 8-pass cooler in on the RH side, this aught to do the job just fine until I can put it back as it should be.
