Junkyard Supercharger Project
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 I6
Junkyard Supercharger Project
My first official thread on this forum and its already something some of you may find interesting. Recently I have been wanting to do something unique to my jeep and have ran into a few youtube videos that show people using Eaton m62 and m90 superchargers on their cherokees. One specific video caught my attention.
I really started thinking that this is something that I could probably do myself. So yesterday I went to the local junkyard and picked up a gen 3 m90 off of a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. I will say this now, this is more of a proof of concept for me. I am not looking to make 12 lbs of boost like some guys are. I do have a 4.6 stroker so thats why I opted for an m90. I also am trying to do this as cheap as possible. I am not worried about fab work as much as I am about tuning and fuel. I hope you guys can pitch in some info and possibly learn a few things. Finally, I am getting much of my info from CobraMarty's previos threads and directly from him so I would like to thank him in advance!
I really started thinking that this is something that I could probably do myself. So yesterday I went to the local junkyard and picked up a gen 3 m90 off of a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. I will say this now, this is more of a proof of concept for me. I am not looking to make 12 lbs of boost like some guys are. I do have a 4.6 stroker so thats why I opted for an m90. I also am trying to do this as cheap as possible. I am not worried about fab work as much as I am about tuning and fuel. I hope you guys can pitch in some info and possibly learn a few things. Finally, I am getting much of my info from CobraMarty's previos threads and directly from him so I would like to thank him in advance!
#2
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 I6
Jeep Specs:
1997 SE
4.6 I6 with roller rockers, bigger cam
NV3550 coupled to a NP231 with HD Chain upgrade
Dana 30 with Lockrite and CHry 8.25 with a Detroit, Chromolys front and rear
Tom Woods Drivershafts, 4.10 gears, 265/75r16 Kuhmo Road Venture At51s
1997 SE
4.6 I6 with roller rockers, bigger cam
NV3550 coupled to a NP231 with HD Chain upgrade
Dana 30 with Lockrite and CHry 8.25 with a Detroit, Chromolys front and rear
Tom Woods Drivershafts, 4.10 gears, 265/75r16 Kuhmo Road Venture At51s
#3
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
Good choice grabbing a M90 vs M62 for your 4.6L stroker.
How does your stroker run now? What injectors are you using? Did you do a tune on the stroker?
Do you want to do a 'blow thru' or a 'draw thru'? That is where do you want to put the TB in relation to the SC, Before or after the SC. Realize that the SC will be putting out boost all the time at 1500+ rpm if it is set up as blow thru. Best is draw thru.
Get a ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader less that $10 on ebay or amazon and get Torque PRO $5 app store. Hook it up and watch and learn your engine now without the SC. Especially useful is the 'Fuel Status' page. That tells you if you are in open or closed loop. Watch and see what you have to do to get it into open loop. Only in open loop can you add the extra fuel needed for the SC and more power and prevent detonation and ruining an engine.
How does your stroker run now? What injectors are you using? Did you do a tune on the stroker?
Do you want to do a 'blow thru' or a 'draw thru'? That is where do you want to put the TB in relation to the SC, Before or after the SC. Realize that the SC will be putting out boost all the time at 1500+ rpm if it is set up as blow thru. Best is draw thru.
Get a ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader less that $10 on ebay or amazon and get Torque PRO $5 app store. Hook it up and watch and learn your engine now without the SC. Especially useful is the 'Fuel Status' page. That tells you if you are in open or closed loop. Watch and see what you have to do to get it into open loop. Only in open loop can you add the extra fuel needed for the SC and more power and prevent detonation and ruining an engine.
#4
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6 I6
Good choice grabbing a M90 vs M62 for your 4.6L stroker.
How does your stroker run now? What injectors are you using? Did you do a tune on the stroker?
Currently runs great except it idles at 1000rpm instead of 750. Stock injectors but I picked up a set of 703s to throw in after loving the mod on my last jeep. Also there should not be any tune as I reset the PCM shortly after I bought it.
Do you want to do a 'blow thru' or a 'draw thru'? That is where do you want to put the TB in relation to the SC, Before or after the SC. Realize that the SC will be putting out boost all the time at 1500+ rpm if it is set up as blow thru. Best is draw thru.
I honestly thought that draw thru was the only option I had as it seems weird to force in air before the throttle body. I will use draw thru due to keep sensors close by the supercharger.
Get a ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader less that $10 on ebay or amazon and get Torque PRO $5 app store. Hook it up and watch and learn your engine now without the SC. Especially useful is the 'Fuel Status' page. That tells you if you are in open or closed loop. Watch and see what you have to do to get it into open loop. Only in open loop can you add the extra fuel needed for the SC and more power and prevent detonation and ruining an engine.
How does your stroker run now? What injectors are you using? Did you do a tune on the stroker?
Currently runs great except it idles at 1000rpm instead of 750. Stock injectors but I picked up a set of 703s to throw in after loving the mod on my last jeep. Also there should not be any tune as I reset the PCM shortly after I bought it.
Do you want to do a 'blow thru' or a 'draw thru'? That is where do you want to put the TB in relation to the SC, Before or after the SC. Realize that the SC will be putting out boost all the time at 1500+ rpm if it is set up as blow thru. Best is draw thru.
I honestly thought that draw thru was the only option I had as it seems weird to force in air before the throttle body. I will use draw thru due to keep sensors close by the supercharger.
Get a ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 reader less that $10 on ebay or amazon and get Torque PRO $5 app store. Hook it up and watch and learn your engine now without the SC. Especially useful is the 'Fuel Status' page. That tells you if you are in open or closed loop. Watch and see what you have to do to get it into open loop. Only in open loop can you add the extra fuel needed for the SC and more power and prevent detonation and ruining an engine.
#5
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
Any amount of boost requires extra fuel and timing retard. If you don't provide extra fuel during boost, you will have a lean AFR and detonate and blow your engine. If you don't have timing retard when in boost, you will detonate and blow your engine.
Closed loop the O2 sensor tells the ECU the AFR and the ECU commands fuel to make 14.7:1 AFR.
Open loop the ECU ignores the ECU and the ECU sends a preset amount of slightly richer fuel which is programmed into the ECU. This however is not rich enough for boost. But in open loop you can add additional fuel and the ecu will not dial back fuel trying to target 14.7:1 like in closed loop.
The are many strategies to provide extra fuel when in boost. None are cheap.
You really should have a Wideband O2 sensor AFR meter/gauge to watch for lean AFR.
There really is more to SC'ing any engine than just bolting it on. Without any fuel and timing management, your engine will blow, no matter how little boost you use.
There are many good books on supercharging. All are a great investment in knowledge. Most are on amazon.
Closed loop the O2 sensor tells the ECU the AFR and the ECU commands fuel to make 14.7:1 AFR.
Open loop the ECU ignores the ECU and the ECU sends a preset amount of slightly richer fuel which is programmed into the ECU. This however is not rich enough for boost. But in open loop you can add additional fuel and the ecu will not dial back fuel trying to target 14.7:1 like in closed loop.
The are many strategies to provide extra fuel when in boost. None are cheap.
You really should have a Wideband O2 sensor AFR meter/gauge to watch for lean AFR.
There really is more to SC'ing any engine than just bolting it on. Without any fuel and timing management, your engine will blow, no matter how little boost you use.
There are many good books on supercharging. All are a great investment in knowledge. Most are on amazon.
#6
CF Veteran
AEM F/IC model 30-1913 (the dodge SRT4 one). This unit will allow you to retard timing for boost at a variable rate. Say you want more retard at higher boost pressures, it can do that. It will allow you to run bigger injectors (without a rising rate fuel pressure regulator return system). It does this by allowing you to add or subtract fuel by changing pulse duration. It also allows for O2 sensor bias, meaning you can change your afr in closed loop as you transition into boost. There are long distance tuners out there PM me for info about that. This tuner will let you pass an obd1 or 2 test. It will fail you for visual inspection. I don't have inspection in CT but still made a patch harness.
Afr and boost gauges are absolutely a requirement as is an obd2 reader of some kind with live data view. No one sells just the intake manifold. It would be nice if someone did... but you are on your own if you choose to fabricate your own intake. I did with some aluminum blocks off eBay. If you plan to top mount the m90 on the intake you will need to cut a hole in your hood.
I don't work for AEM just my 2cents.
Afr and boost gauges are absolutely a requirement as is an obd2 reader of some kind with live data view. No one sells just the intake manifold. It would be nice if someone did... but you are on your own if you choose to fabricate your own intake. I did with some aluminum blocks off eBay. If you plan to top mount the m90 on the intake you will need to cut a hole in your hood.
I don't work for AEM just my 2cents.
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#10
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Year: 1997
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Helps when I actually link the correct one.
As far as the performance, it does feel like it has more torque than a stock 4.0.
Amazon.com: IDEAPRO Car Scanner Super Mini ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 II ELM 327 Wireless Scan Tool Scanner - Use for Android: Automotive
As far as the performance, it does feel like it has more torque than a stock 4.0.
#11
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As long as it gets the job done. I have no experience with that scanner. I use an actron cp9575. Live data with a quick refresh rate.
#12
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Year: 1997
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Okay have been super busy lately with work and my harmonic balancer going out of commission but that is all fixed now. I removed all of my AC system besides the compressor which freed up a ton of space in the engine bay.
Also, I have been looking at various tuning modules and came across these 2 units which I dont know which is better.
https://splitsec.com/product/ftc1-20...ec-jeep-p-n-p/
https://splitsec.com/product/ftc1-20...ec-jeep-p-n-p/
Also, I have been looking at various tuning modules and came across these 2 units which I dont know which is better.
https://splitsec.com/product/ftc1-20...ec-jeep-p-n-p/
https://splitsec.com/product/ftc1-20...ec-jeep-p-n-p/
#15
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
The Neon 703s are barely larger than stock. They are way too small to use for forced induction. They are barely big enough for a stroker engine.
Aren't the SS boxes nearly $600 shipped?
Aren't the SS boxes nearly $600 shipped?