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Stainless Steel Bolts?

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Old May 11, 2016 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
FoolishDog's Avatar
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0
Default Stainless Steel Bolts?

I recently bought a 97 Cherokee with 170,000 miles on it so i plan on doing a ton of work on it more or less indefinitely. With that in mind and considering I live in the north east, I figured that whenever I'm working on a part I'd swap the iron bolts out for stainless steel to keep the rust down. Besides cost is there any reason this might be a bad idea?

Also I'm in the middle of a ball joint replacement and the three wheel hub Bolts http://www.quadratec.com/products/52...FQUmhgodhE8CoA are in bad shape. I can't seem to find the exact bolt in stainless steel but I figure I should be able to get some the same length with the same thread sizes and a 6 point head which seems better than the 12 point that comes stock. Any reason why that might be a bad idea?

Sorry if this is a stupid post, it's well past my bedtime and I'm tired.
Also this is my first post so Hi everybody!
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Old May 11, 2016 | 09:54 PM
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cramitthefrog's Avatar
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Be careful! Stainless does not have the strength of a comparable grade 5 bolt.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:00 PM
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I didn't know the strength difference was significant. I'd rather be safe than sorry with my wheels and the like. Maybe I'll try painting them or something.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:19 PM
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From: Long Beach, Ca
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Originally Posted by cramitthefrog
Be careful! Stainless does not have the strength of a comparable grade 5 bolt.
This^^^^^^

I work with stainless hardware every day and I've broken my fair share of stainless bolts with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet, plus, when over tightened, they like to cross thread and strip. I'd go with steel bolts that have a coating on them like zinc or something. You could also use anti seize

Last edited by askingxforxit; May 11, 2016 at 10:37 PM.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 11:31 PM
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Year: 2001
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I made the same mistake when I first got my jeep. Went stainless. Almost dropped the rear bumper because of it. Grade 8 and Nordlock washers
. Haven't had tighten a bolt since. If I were back in the NE, I would use Nordlock's and anti-seize and be done with it.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 01:13 AM
  #6  
andrewmp6's Avatar
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From: Louisville,KY
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You can send all your bolts out to be zinc or cadmium plated if you got the money,But im cheap and even rusted bolts will come out with some heat or beat it.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 09:28 PM
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dmill89's Avatar
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From: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Year: 1995
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
This^^^^^^

I work with stainless hardware every day and I've broken my fair share of stainless bolts with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet, plus, when over tightened, they like to cross thread and strip. I'd go with steel bolts that have a coating on them like zinc or something. You could also use anti seize
x2, Any bolt I've needed to replace on my XJ has been replaced with yellow-zinc plated hardware which has held up very well to the PA salt. Cadmium plated hardware would be even better if you can find it for a reasonable price.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 10:02 PM
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cliffy's Avatar
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Any hardware replaced just use anti seize, the hub bolts are tough to get out just start soaking them in PB Blaster and be patient. The hub bolts can be replaced with a 10.9 grade metric bolt with the same thread and pitch but those bolts are made that way for a reason.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #9  
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If PB Blaster doesn't work, try a homemade brew 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 02:43 PM
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investinwaffles's Avatar
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From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
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I just always use Grade 8 hardware on 90% of the Jeep and anything with high shear forces I will use a grade 5 as it is less brittle. Replace as many bolts as you can - it gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-strength.html

Last edited by investinwaffles; May 13, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
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Old May 15, 2016 | 10:27 AM
  #11  
peep's Avatar
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From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
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Your stainless 18-8 type fasteners can be applied anywhere that a grade 5 is suitable, have equivalent strength.
Any suspension or high stength requirements, use grade 8 or better conventional fasteners.
I like stainless in lower strength applications where future service will be necessary and when appearance is considered.
Stainless is good tensile strength and tough, but not surface hard. It will smear in high tightening, and gall, making finishing the assembly and/or disassembly a major pita.
Always use an anti seize when assembling the stainless to prevent the threads locking.
But don't use your stainless where you need high strength!
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