Stainless Steel Bolts?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 20
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I recently bought a 97 Cherokee with 170,000 miles on it so i plan on doing a ton of work on it more or less indefinitely. With that in mind and considering I live in the north east, I figured that whenever I'm working on a part I'd swap the iron bolts out for stainless steel to keep the rust down. Besides cost is there any reason this might be a bad idea?
Also I'm in the middle of a ball joint replacement and the three wheel hub Bolts http://www.quadratec.com/products/52...FQUmhgodhE8CoA are in bad shape. I can't seem to find the exact bolt in stainless steel but I figure I should be able to get some the same length with the same thread sizes and a 6 point head which seems better than the 12 point that comes stock. Any reason why that might be a bad idea?
Sorry if this is a stupid post, it's well past my bedtime and I'm tired.
Also this is my first post so Hi everybody!
Also I'm in the middle of a ball joint replacement and the three wheel hub Bolts http://www.quadratec.com/products/52...FQUmhgodhE8CoA are in bad shape. I can't seem to find the exact bolt in stainless steel but I figure I should be able to get some the same length with the same thread sizes and a 6 point head which seems better than the 12 point that comes stock. Any reason why that might be a bad idea?
Sorry if this is a stupid post, it's well past my bedtime and I'm tired.
Also this is my first post so Hi everybody!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 20
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From: Massachusetts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I didn't know the strength difference was significant. I'd rather be safe than sorry with my wheels and the like. Maybe I'll try painting them or something.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,500
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From: Long Beach, Ca
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I work with stainless hardware every day and I've broken my fair share of stainless bolts with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet, plus, when over tightened, they like to cross thread and strip. I'd go with steel bolts that have a coating on them like zinc or something. You could also use anti seize
Last edited by askingxforxit; May 11, 2016 at 10:37 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
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From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I made the same mistake when I first got my jeep. Went stainless. Almost dropped the rear bumper because of it. Grade 8 and Nordlock washers
. Haven't had tighten a bolt since. If I were back in the NE, I would use Nordlock's and anti-seize and be done with it.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 918
Likes: 6
From: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
This^^^^^^
I work with stainless hardware every day and I've broken my fair share of stainless bolts with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet, plus, when over tightened, they like to cross thread and strip. I'd go with steel bolts that have a coating on them like zinc or something. You could also use anti seize
I work with stainless hardware every day and I've broken my fair share of stainless bolts with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet, plus, when over tightened, they like to cross thread and strip. I'd go with steel bolts that have a coating on them like zinc or something. You could also use anti seize
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 739
Likes: 6
Year: 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK)
Engine: 3.6 V6
Any hardware replaced just use anti seize, the hub bolts are tough to get out just start soaking them in PB Blaster and be patient. The hub bolts can be replaced with a 10.9 grade metric bolt with the same thread and pitch but those bolts are made that way for a reason.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I just always use Grade 8 hardware on 90% of the Jeep and anything with high shear forces I will use a grade 5 as it is less brittle. Replace as many bolts as you can - it gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside 
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-strength.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-strength.html
Last edited by investinwaffles; May 13, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
CF Veteran

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 12
From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Your stainless 18-8 type fasteners can be applied anywhere that a grade 5 is suitable, have equivalent strength.
Any suspension or high stength requirements, use grade 8 or better conventional fasteners.
I like stainless in lower strength applications where future service will be necessary and when appearance is considered.
Stainless is good tensile strength and tough, but not surface hard. It will smear in high tightening, and gall, making finishing the assembly and/or disassembly a major pita.
Always use an anti seize when assembling the stainless to prevent the threads locking.
But don't use your stainless where you need high strength!
Any suspension or high stength requirements, use grade 8 or better conventional fasteners.
I like stainless in lower strength applications where future service will be necessary and when appearance is considered.
Stainless is good tensile strength and tough, but not surface hard. It will smear in high tightening, and gall, making finishing the assembly and/or disassembly a major pita.
Always use an anti seize when assembling the stainless to prevent the threads locking.
But don't use your stainless where you need high strength!
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