Ball Joint Replacement
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ball Joint Replacement
I need to replace the driver's side ball joints. I'm going to replace the apparently original u-joint while I'm at it. Local shop wants to charge $250 in labor plus parts. I'm considering doing it myself. What tools are required? Any hints on procedures?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Member
I would do both sides at the same time, these are the best prices i could find on good parts, job is easy to do just time consuming.
you can rent these from the parts store but i chose to buy it
you can rent these from the parts store but i chose to buy it
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I would do both sides at the same time, these are the best prices i could find on good parts, job is easy to do just time consuming.
Amazon.com: Spicer 706944X Socket Assembly: Automotive
Amazon.com: Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit: Automotive
you can rent these from the parts store but i chose to buy it
Amazon.com: Astro 7865 Ball Joint Service Tool with 4-wheel Drive Adapters: Automotive
Amazon.com: Spicer 706944X Socket Assembly: Automotive
Amazon.com: Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit: Automotive
you can rent these from the parts store but i chose to buy it
Amazon.com: Astro 7865 Ball Joint Service Tool with 4-wheel Drive Adapters: Automotive
#4
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
my advice would be patience and pb blaster when you're trying to break everything free, and cleaning the hub while putting some anti-seize when reinstalling everything. good luck!
#5
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Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not too hard a job there are a few YouTube vids on the procedure for XJ Danas.
Pay attention to the spacers used for removal and pressing new ones in.
It's highly recommended to do both sides incl. both axle u-joints . You're in there and why take it all apart 2-3 times when you could do everything in one shot like jeepcherokee said. Doing just one side guarantees the other side will fail soon after !
Dont forget you will probably need to do an alignment to make sure everything is good steering wise.
I just did my whole steering linkage set up, Ball and U joints shocks,track bar.
World of a difference.
installer tools are available for free ( w/ deposit you get back in full ) from most auto parts stores
Pay attention to the spacers used for removal and pressing new ones in.
It's highly recommended to do both sides incl. both axle u-joints . You're in there and why take it all apart 2-3 times when you could do everything in one shot like jeepcherokee said. Doing just one side guarantees the other side will fail soon after !
Dont forget you will probably need to do an alignment to make sure everything is good steering wise.
I just did my whole steering linkage set up, Ball and U joints shocks,track bar.
World of a difference.
installer tools are available for free ( w/ deposit you get back in full ) from most auto parts stores
Last edited by sturoc; 03-31-2016 at 11:16 AM.
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Georgia
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Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
My son and I replaced both sides on my '96. I ordered the Spicer parts shown above. While I had it all up and broken down I went ahead and replaced the tie rod, drag link with new parts as well It really isn't too difficult and if I can do it anyone can as I am far from being a mechanic. I rented the tools at my local Advanced Auto parts store and took care of it all over a weekend. The tools were free, just needed a deposit which I got back when I returned the tools. My XJ is not a DD so I was in no rush.
#7
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
This procedure should be identical to the XJ D30;
$250 is actually a very reasonable price for shop labor, but if you have the ability you might as well do it yourself. Do both sides, and do the wheel bearings if they are original as well (might as well, with the money you would be saving).
I went with Spicer ball joints and u-joints, and Precision branded wheel hub/bearing assemblies.
Timken has really gone down in quality since shifting their manufacturing overseas. If you want a high-end bearing, go with SKF
$250 is actually a very reasonable price for shop labor, but if you have the ability you might as well do it yourself. Do both sides, and do the wheel bearings if they are original as well (might as well, with the money you would be saving).
I went with Spicer ball joints and u-joints, and Precision branded wheel hub/bearing assemblies.
Timken has really gone down in quality since shifting their manufacturing overseas. If you want a high-end bearing, go with SKF
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#9
CF Veteran
Not to chime in on the negative side of things... but where do you live? If you're in a place else that has a lot of snow or road salt, 250$ might be a great deal.
I tried for an afternoon, failed at changing mine, and went to a shop. They ended up having to cut them out. They said it'd be 3 hours initially and it ended up being an all day task. Even for professionals with a lift and torches. So, you might want to think it over.
Downside is, if he does both sides, 500. Maybe he'll cut you a deal if he does both? I figured parts would set me back 100 even if I did it myself. That's 150 per side labor. If that includes the alignment which is another 40 only 130 labor per side.
I don't think that's too bad myself, and again, after failing horribly with mine, even with a 10 foot pipe on a heavy duty breaker bar, I'd seriously think about bringing it in.
All depends on the condition of your jeep.
Either way, good luck.
I tried for an afternoon, failed at changing mine, and went to a shop. They ended up having to cut them out. They said it'd be 3 hours initially and it ended up being an all day task. Even for professionals with a lift and torches. So, you might want to think it over.
Downside is, if he does both sides, 500. Maybe he'll cut you a deal if he does both? I figured parts would set me back 100 even if I did it myself. That's 150 per side labor. If that includes the alignment which is another 40 only 130 labor per side.
I don't think that's too bad myself, and again, after failing horribly with mine, even with a 10 foot pipe on a heavy duty breaker bar, I'd seriously think about bringing it in.
All depends on the condition of your jeep.
Either way, good luck.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Not to chime in on the negative side of things... but where do you live? If you're in a place else that has a lot of snow or road salt, 250$ might be a great deal.
I tried for an afternoon, failed at changing mine, and went to a shop. They ended up having to cut them out. They said it'd be 3 hours initially and it ended up being an all day task. Even for professionals with a lift and torches. So, you might want to think it over.
Downside is, if he does both sides, 500. Maybe he'll cut you a deal if he does both? I figured parts would set me back 100 even if I did it myself. That's 150 per side labor. If that includes the alignment which is another 40 only 130 labor per side.
I don't think that's too bad myself, and again, after failing horribly with mine, even with a 10 foot pipe on a heavy duty breaker bar, I'd seriously think about bringing it in.
All depends on the condition of your jeep.
Either way, good luck.
I tried for an afternoon, failed at changing mine, and went to a shop. They ended up having to cut them out. They said it'd be 3 hours initially and it ended up being an all day task. Even for professionals with a lift and torches. So, you might want to think it over.
Downside is, if he does both sides, 500. Maybe he'll cut you a deal if he does both? I figured parts would set me back 100 even if I did it myself. That's 150 per side labor. If that includes the alignment which is another 40 only 130 labor per side.
I don't think that's too bad myself, and again, after failing horribly with mine, even with a 10 foot pipe on a heavy duty breaker bar, I'd seriously think about bringing it in.
All depends on the condition of your jeep.
Either way, good luck.
#12
CF Veteran
Sorry. Thought is was 250 each, out the door. For 450 I'd buy torches if I had to. Really, if you have the funds... might be a good time (read: "excuse") to buy some.
Make sure you at least have a tank of propane or MAP gas.
Good luck.
Make sure you at least have a tank of propane or MAP gas.
Good luck.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll post my progress here, as it's made.
Thanks all!
#14
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Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ball joints are about $110 for Spicers and rent the tool for free from Advance, O'Reilly's, or even buy one to have in your toolbox. Ball joints, shocks, and brakes often have very high markup at shops.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Spicer ball and u-joints ordered. $180 shipped. I'll rent the tool.
I'd like to replace the hub assembly while I'm at it. Moog units are around $100 each, Timken and Precision about half that. I should probably go with Moog... any recommendations?
I'd like to replace the hub assembly while I'm at it. Moog units are around $100 each, Timken and Precision about half that. I should probably go with Moog... any recommendations?