Ask the Fabrication Question Thread
#31
I want to build a decent bumper set, Ive done a little stick welding and a little with a wire feed with a tank (dont know what its called), The wire feed was easier for me, would a welder like this be strong enough for a bumper with a winch? And what would be the best route to go with?
#32
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yes, but the single most vital tool to being able to fab stuff is a welder. Thus the discussion at hand.
Yes a wire feed(commonly called "MIG" and technically known as "GMAW") machine of the proper size will easily weld 1/4" or more. I'd recommend at LEAST at 140amp machine, but you'd be much better off with a 180 or 210amp welder. A stick welder is much cheaper to purchase, but its a harder skill to get good at.
Yes a wire feed(commonly called "MIG" and technically known as "GMAW") machine of the proper size will easily weld 1/4" or more. I'd recommend at LEAST at 140amp machine, but you'd be much better off with a 180 or 210amp welder. A stick welder is much cheaper to purchase, but its a harder skill to get good at.
x2
#33
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would 1.75 be too big for an exo? or would 1.50 be too small looking? thinking on one or the other in .120 wall form.
also with being a 4 door is there anyway to put a peice between the doors without it sticking out too damn far and be able to open both doors? or would i have to trim them corners of the doors? which is what i was thinking.
also with being a 4 door is there anyway to put a peice between the doors without it sticking out too damn far and be able to open both doors? or would i have to trim them corners of the doors? which is what i was thinking.
#34
would 1.75 be too big for an exo? or would 1.50 be too small looking? thinking on one or the other in .120 wall form.
also with being a 4 door is there anyway to put a peice between the doors without it sticking out too damn far and be able to open both doors? or would i have to trim them corners of the doors? which is what i was thinking.
also with being a 4 door is there anyway to put a peice between the doors without it sticking out too damn far and be able to open both doors? or would i have to trim them corners of the doors? which is what i was thinking.
My other suggesting would be a hybrid internal/Exo cage something along the lines of what EricsXJ did: http://www.ericsxj.com/cage/cage.htm
#35
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Rain Gutter Measurements
Im trying to mount a roof rack using gutter clamps and need to know the exact measurement from gutter to gutter so I can space my rack on evenly. I'm going to mount 1 inch square steel tubing to the mounts and then I will mount the steel tubing directly to the rack
#36
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i got a question guys, who here has used the weld on drings? i was thinking of getting the 1" diameter ones and weld them on, so i dont have to worry about ever not having them,
#37
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when i made my rack i made it a little narrower than the gutter mounts. that way when i put the mounts on the rack they was more like /\ rather than ||. i felt that way then taking turns and side hills there was more support countering the forces. maybe it dont matter.
#38
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I'd go with the 1.75. Its going to be stronger than the 1.5
My other suggesting would be a hybrid internal/Exo cage something along the lines of what EricsXJ did: http://www.ericsxj.com/cage/cage.htm
My other suggesting would be a hybrid internal/Exo cage something along the lines of what EricsXJ did: http://www.ericsxj.com/cage/cage.htm
#39
Do everyone a favor and get a pair of these: http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=256&page=1
Then you can weld them all the way down the frame plate and know that they're not going anywhere.
#40
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I once made a plate for a carb with happy results,used gaskets for templates;consider if the manifold itself will hinder your plan, being between the injector and the cylinder,swirl effect is very null with injection
#41
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I would NEVER EVER pull somebody else out who had d-rings that were face welded to a bumper, I'm not gonna chance risking my life or someone elses by trusting welds that someone else made.
Do everyone a favor and get a pair of these: http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=256&page=1
Then you can weld them all the way down the frame plate and know that they're not going anywhere.
Do everyone a favor and get a pair of these: http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=256&page=1
Then you can weld them all the way down the frame plate and know that they're not going anywhere.
#42
That is THE way to go if you ask me. AKA if you rip that mount off, the bumper and front of the Jeep is going with it.
#43
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L 99+intake jeepers creepers 62mm tb 703 injectors cold air
so i have a 95 cherokee and am interestid in switchin up to the new front clip from a 97 i know it has and can be done .... my fab question are the fender flairs and wheel wells the same size? will i be able to just put on my 95 flair and trim the front half of the flair to be flush???
#44
so i have a 95 cherokee and am interestid in switchin up to the new front clip from a 97 i know it has and can be done .... my fab question are the fender flairs and wheel wells the same size? will i be able to just put on my 95 flair and trim the front half of the flair to be flush???
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Year: '99
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so i have a 95 cherokee and am interestid in switchin up to the new front clip from a 97 i know it has and can be done .... my fab question are the fender flairs and wheel wells the same size? will i be able to just put on my 95 flair and trim the front half of the flair to be flush???
Its best I think to use 97+ fairs all the way around and trim or no trim. So you know when looking in the JY for flairs the RF is the same as the LR and LF=RR on the 97+. The only thing is you have to make the wires work not to hard.