yes, but the single most vital tool to being able to fab stuff is a welder. Thus the discussion at hand.

Yes a wire feed(commonly called "MIG" and technically known as "GMAW") machine of the proper size will easily weld 1/4" or more. I'd recommend at LEAST at 140amp machine, but you'd be much better off with a 180 or 210amp welder. A stick welder is much cheaper to purchase, but its a harder skill to get good at.

 

x2

 

would 1.75 be too big for an exo? or would 1.50 be too small looking? thinking on one or the other in .120 wall form.

also with being a 4 door is there anyway to put a peice between the doors without it sticking out too damn far and be able to open both doors? or would i have to trim them corners of the doors? which is what i was thinking.

 

I'd go with the 1.75. Its going to be stronger than the 1.5

My other suggesting would be a hybrid internal/Exo cage something along the lines of what EricsXJ did: http://www.ericsxj.com/cage/cage.htm

 

Im trying to mount a roof rack using gutter clamps and need to know the exact measurement from gutter to gutter so I can space my rack on evenly. I'm going to mount 1 inch square steel tubing to the mounts and then I will mount the steel tubing directly to the rack

 

i got a question guys, who here has used the weld on drings? i was thinking of getting the 1" diameter ones and weld them on, so i dont have to worry about ever not having them,

 

when i made my rack i made it a little narrower than the gutter mounts. that way when i put the mounts on the rack they was more like /\ rather than ||. i felt that way then taking turns and side hills there was more support countering the forces. maybe it dont matter.

 

Thats the same ide I had for my front end also. One day one day.

 

I would NEVER EVER pull somebody else out who had d-rings that were face welded to a bumper, I'm not gonna chance risking my life or someone elses by trusting welds that someone else made.

Do everyone a favor and get a pair of these: http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=256&page=1

Then you can weld them all the way down the frame plate and know that they're not going anywhere.

 

I once made a plate for a carb with happy results,used gaskets for templates;consider if the manifold itself will hinder your plan, being between the injector and the cylinder,swirl effect is very null with injection

 

just asking an opinion, i see a good bit of ppl have them, i havent put them on any customers bumpers yet, i just make their frame mounts into shackle mounts

 

That is THE way to go if you ask me. AKA if you rip that mount off, the bumper and front of the Jeep is going with it.

 

so i have a 95 cherokee and am interestid in switchin up to the new front clip from a 97 i know it has and can be done .... my fab question are the fender flairs and wheel wells the same size? will i be able to just put on my 95 flair and trim the front half of the flair to be flush???

 

its all bolt on, but you have to get the header panel AND both front fenders. Not only that but you have to splice the wiring harnesses, the marker light plugs are different between the two styles.

 

Its best I think to use 97+ fairs all the way around and trim or no trim. So you know when looking in the JY for flairs the RF is the same as the LR and LF=RR on the 97+. The only thing is you have to make the wires work not to hard.