This thread is for all of those fabrication related questions that aren’t actually fabrication. Anything that is fabrication related goes here such as which welder you use, what tube bender should I get, or how to fit a bull bar on a ZJ, ect.
If you know you are not doing any actual fabrication then it should not start a new thread. If you think hmm I should post a new thread in the fab section to get the most look from us fab guys then just post it in this thread instead and you will get your question answered here instead of it getting lost in the chat or tech sections.

Since there have been so many complaints of non-fabrication being posted in the fab section, or confusion as to if this should be in this section and there being no sub forum added I am starting this thread in hopes for a sticky and to unclutter this section.

 

Sounds like a great idea to sticky this thread eventually.

I'm looking to start learning to weld (I've had limited exposure to both Mig and Stick welding, better at stick than mig at this point) and I'm looking for opinions on the best lower cost welder that I could purchase. I'm figuring it should be a Mig unit for lower cost and portability (will likely weld in the backyard as I have no driveway/garage). I'd be doing projects such as bumpers, roof racks, maybe some other custom pieces, but I don't see myself fabbing anything structural, at least not any more structural than the bumpers.

I have heard Lincoln makes arguably the best welders, and I do realize I won't be able to afford one any time soon, but I also don't trust a $100 harbor freight special.

Appreciate any help you guys can give, ideally the 250-400 dollar range is what I could probably justify spending to the boss. Thanks!

 

I'm going to bore out my throttle body, but my only concern is making a new throttle plate. I have the tools to make almost anything, I just noticed that the stock throttle plate isn't a perfect circle since it sits at an angle.

 

do you trust miller? they make a great welder. i have a hobart handler 140 which is made my miller. i love that thing. i have built my bumpers, my roof rack, sliders and a set of half doors too. a great machine for the price. i got mine at norther tool for a decent price. a buddy got the same machine off craigslist with a bottle, wire, cart, helment all for like 500 bucks. but i fully recommend the hobart as they are as good as miller without the same price tag.

 

Anybody?

 

Like stated above Miller is about the best you can get, Lincoln used to be. I work part time at a Welding repair shop and we see the 110 Lincolns weekly. For the money, if you are going to buy a 110 welder the Hobart Handler 140 is the best for the money and has a high duty cycle for it's size. The Lincolns are easily overloaded and costly to repair. Plus you can use flux or gas with the Hobart. If you plan to go the 220 route which will be a bit more, I'd still suggest Hobart and Miller. I use a 110 Miller Cricket for light work and sheet metal and a 220 Hobart Beta Mig for the heavy stuff. The Handler will easily weld 1/4" and would be great for bumpers, sliders etc.

 

if you really have the tools to make almost anything then you should have a milling machine right? i would think you should be able to match the angle with a milling machine.

 

yes, this is a good idea, but there is a few things i see wrong. it would be better if it was a section, not just a thread, because the same question could still be asked like 47 times, if it was a section, people could just search for it, and find threads of info, not just pages, it might help them more. but thats just my opinion.

 

i like the thought of this but the mods already have alot to look after and most of this stuff just needs to go in the tech section, just my .02, no harm intended

edit: also this is against the fab section rules, no actual fab work is going on in this thread so it should be here

 

You can use flux or gas with a Lincoln also. Whether its a little baby 110v Lincoln, or my big Power Mig 255. I've used flux on both machines without issue.
As far as the 110 lincolns being "not reliable" I'm calling BS. I my buddy's machine has been pushed hard for the 3 years he's had it with zero issues. He's welded stainless, sheet metal, and thicker stuff without issue.

 

This thread is going to dominate my free time. I can already tell.

 

Miller in my opinion has the best welders out there. Though you dont have to spend that kind of money on a welder like the price of a Miller is when Hobart has Miller stamped all over it. I have the Hobart 187 and ive ran probably 15 or so, 10lb spoils of wire through it and have no compliants what so ever. Even welded 1/2" with no doubts on the welds.
Northern Tool has them for $669.99. I know thats a little more then your spending range, but its a very good investment and well worth its money. It already comes with the gauges to convert it over to Argon, so all you gotta do is hit Airgas for a cylinder of 75/25.

 

Yes. mills, lathes, edm's, and others. But, the throttle plate is not a perfect circle, considering it sits at an angle. It is elongated with two 10mm flats. I would just like to know how other people have made theirs.

 

I do a little machining myself now and then and have made a stainless throttle shaft for a SU carb for a 240Z. First, you should modify the shaft so that the flat area is as wide as the new TB ID.

I noticed that the plate is slightly elliptical with edges that seal tightly on the bore. With this in mind, if you know what the angle of the throttle plate is in the closed position relative to the circular plane, you could fab a piece of steel rod about the finished ID of the TB and ~4 " long with two small flats, stand it vertically in a mill and then lean it at this angle cut one end with this angle. Next add the tapped holes for the plate in the proper locations. Now bolt on an oversized piece of material for the throttle plate. Chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to the desired OD. Finally switch back to the mill, and cut the flats to fit the shaft. This should give you a disk that will close tightly in the bore when the throttle is closed. Hope this helps.

Thinking about your question gets me thinking and wondering. How large can you bore a stock TB out to? What performance inceases do you expect to receive in return for your efforts?

 

I am looking into building my roof rack but I am too lazy to build the tabs and wanted to know who has them besides JCROffroad? I am unable to find "builder" parts from any place else.

Thanks