Ask the Fabrication Question Thread
11-29-2010, 04:59 AM
#16
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Year: 2000,1990,1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do a little machining myself now and then and have made a stainless throttle shaft for a SU carb for a 240Z. First, you should modify the shaft so that the flat area is as wide as the new TB ID.
I noticed that the plate is slightly elliptical with edges that seal tightly on the bore. With this in mind, if you know what the angle of the throttle plate is in the closed position relative to the circular plane, you could fab a piece of steel rod about the finished ID of the TB and ~4 " long with two small flats, stand it vertically in a mill and then lean it at this angle cut one end with this angle. Next add the tapped holes for the plate in the proper locations. Now bolt on an oversized piece of material for the throttle plate. Chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to the desired OD. Finally switch back to the mill, and cut the flats to fit the shaft. This should give you a disk that will close tightly in the bore when the throttle is closed. Hope this helps.
Thinking about your question gets me thinking and wondering. How large can you bore a stock TB out to? What performance inceases do you expect to receive in return for your efforts?
I noticed that the plate is slightly elliptical with edges that seal tightly on the bore. With this in mind, if you know what the angle of the throttle plate is in the closed position relative to the circular plane, you could fab a piece of steel rod about the finished ID of the TB and ~4 " long with two small flats, stand it vertically in a mill and then lean it at this angle cut one end with this angle. Next add the tapped holes for the plate in the proper locations. Now bolt on an oversized piece of material for the throttle plate. Chuck it up in a lathe and turn it down to the desired OD. Finally switch back to the mill, and cut the flats to fit the shaft. This should give you a disk that will close tightly in the bore when the throttle is closed. Hope this helps.
Thinking about your question gets me thinking and wondering. How large can you bore a stock TB out to? What performance inceases do you expect to receive in return for your efforts?
Thanks. I believe 62mm. You get better throttle response for sure and maybe a little power, but not much.
11-29-2010, 08:56 AM
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
For $55 for 6 gutter mounts is not a bad deal. I couldn't make them that cheap. I considered them when I built my rack but went a different route.
11-29-2010, 11:46 AM
#18
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Power Tech
Its not the price that I am concerned with, it is how its angled in I was aiming to have tabs that went up so I could have a "wider" rack
11-29-2010, 12:10 PM
#19
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You can use flux or gas with a Lincoln also. Whether its a little baby 110v Lincoln, or my big Power Mig 255. I've used flux on both machines without issue.
As far as the 110 lincolns being "not reliable" I'm calling BS. I my buddy's machine has been pushed hard for the 3 years he's had it with zero issues. He's welded stainless, sheet metal, and thicker stuff without issue.
As far as the 110 lincolns being "not reliable" I'm calling BS. I my buddy's machine has been pushed hard for the 3 years he's had it with zero issues. He's welded stainless, sheet metal, and thicker stuff without issue.
11-29-2010, 12:12 PM
#20
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If you're too lazy to make something as simple as that you own the wrong type of vehicle.
11-30-2010, 06:27 PM
#22
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5l 4 cyl
i like the Hobart handler 140.. so back to the thread. anybody make a box to hold sand in the back of their jeep or to hold a few buckets of sand in the back? i am shoveling decks and walkways/steps this winter and wanted to be able to have sand to do their walk ways and steps but want to keep them so that they can stay unfrozen and handy in buckets or right in the back.
11-30-2010, 11:31 PM
#23
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12-01-2010, 01:03 AM
#24
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Case in point: I purchased a used Power Mig 255, for about $1500 less than what a new machine would cost, its only 5 years old and welds perfectly. The only issue I've run into so far is that from use the gun liner could use to be replaced.
I would much rather stick with the machine I have than get a brand new 180amp machine, for the sole reason its built beefier and thus will last much longer.
12-06-2010, 03:51 AM
#25
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what or where is the best place you all have found to order some DOM and HREW. got a guy who will let me borrow his bender so looking for some cheap as possible DOM and HREW. i know that dont go when it comes to DOM and cheap but still gotta try.
12-06-2010, 12:53 PM
#26
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Year: 97
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Nobody is mentioning Lincoln Machines either. From my personal experience and what I've heard, they also perform extremely well, and and very reliable.
Case in point: I purchased a used Power Mig 255, for about $1500 less than what a new machine would cost, its only 5 years old and welds perfectly. The only issue I've run into so far is that from use the gun liner could use to be replaced.
I would much rather stick with the machine I have than get a brand new 180amp machine, for the sole reason its built beefier and thus will last much longer.
Case in point: I purchased a used Power Mig 255, for about $1500 less than what a new machine would cost, its only 5 years old and welds perfectly. The only issue I've run into so far is that from use the gun liner could use to be replaced.
I would much rather stick with the machine I have than get a brand new 180amp machine, for the sole reason its built beefier and thus will last much longer.
12-06-2010, 01:54 PM
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12-07-2010, 09:48 PM
#30
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I want to build a decent bumper set, Ive done a little stick welding and a little with a wire feed with a tank (dont know what its called), The wire feed was easier for me, would a welder like this be strong enough for a bumper with a winch? And what would be the best route to go with?