It started about a week ago when I left the lights on. I had the jeep jump started and it ran fine. 2 days later, I noticed the jeep was struggling to start but did fire up. Drove around for a bit before going to work to make sure the battery kept its charge. Upon getting off work, the jeep was struggling to start, started, didn't get up to idle, then died. Tried to jump start but wouldn't fire up no matter how much it cranked over. Replaced plugs/wires/cap/rotor in parking lot. Jump started but still didn't fire up. Pulled #1 plug and smelled fuel so the injectors are working. Got jeep towed back to house and don't know where to go from here can I get some guidance on what to do? Thanks

 

Have the battery load tested.

 

Besides having a good battery, leave it disconnected overnight. If a confused PCM is possible, that would solve that. Also on both of my (quite different) 90's, disconnecting and re-pluging the CPS will make it start. (at least 4 times now over many years)

 

Going to try this later. Question; if I'm getting jump started and all my lights work, cranks over but doesn't start, can that still be just my battery?

 

99 can pull codes through the key in the ignition have you tried this.no checks engine light required

 

A 99 cannot retrieve codes any way other than a scan tool or a code reader. If you try the odometer trick to retrieve codes which works with 1996 to mid 1997, all you get is a self test which some people confuse for reading codes. Key-on, key-off test worked on older XJs but absolutely will not work on a 99; I own one.

But I don't think you'll need codes. As Turbo and Flintstone wisely mentioned, you MUST start with a good battery. Anything less can leave you chasing your tail, flooded engine, etc. Have that battery load tested (free service at any parts store) or pop in a known good battery. Engine life always starts with electrons. And yes, you can have a battery that cranks the engine over well, but is marginal enough to give the engine management system fits. Happens all the time.

If it still won't fire with a known good battery, then you must verify spark. Pull a plug. Keep it attached to the plug wire. Place the plug electrode near a good engine ground. Have a buddy crank the engine over while you watch. You are looking for a strong, BLUE, snapping spark. Yellow/orange/white indicates a weak spark which may not be strong enough to start the engine. A weak ignition coil is often to blame for a weak spark.

If spark is good, (and only if) then you must verify fuel pressure. Must be done with a fuel pressure gauge which can often be rented inexpensively from your local parts store; call around. Easy to verify on the schrader valve on the fuel rail in the engine bay. I know you have fuel, but with this (and most modern) engines, you must achieve a particular pressure (49 approximately) before the engine will pop.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

What I understand about car batteries is, once they are fully drained they never come back to fully functional.

 

+1 on starting with a good battery. Switched it out and it fired right up. Also got my core charge + a few extra bucks since it was still under warranty. Thanks Costco!

 

From my experience you can get a drained battery to work for you after it has been discharged however you significantly shorten the life of a battery. It really depends on when it was manufactured, obviously the newer they are means the better chance it has.

Best suggestion is to test it and if it is still having trouble and not holding a charge, change it.

 

Got a real bad shake I can see you in my steering wheel pedal and passenger side seat summer calling in the death wobble I replace all tire rods in front end rear upper outer suspension arm bushings where do I go next

 

Balance the tires.

 

Ok gonna put 4tires on it today.but randomly aside from the shaking more at high rate of speed or when I hit a lil bump or transition it goes into a really vicious and unsafe shake like hole front end is fixn to come off

 

THAT'S death wobble, when you can't control the direction the vehicle is moving in. You have to check all your joints, wheel bearing, steering linkage, and control arm bushings for looseness. Pay close attention to the track bar. Tire balance can start the shake, but looseness anywhere can contribute.

 

When I replace the tire rods last night I found that my steering damper I can pull in and out all the way with my hands I was told that's not supposed to be like that is this true and could that be the cause of my shake

 

All the steering damper does is control steering "kickback"when going over stuff in the road with one wheel. I drove my '97 ZJ for 2 weeks without one and never noticed any problems. In answer to your question, you need a new one, but it won't cure your problem, only mask it.

If you plan on going rock crawling, you'll want a BIG one! They do add a little effort to low speed steering, however, but with power steering, you'll never notice it.