I have a leak from the transmission line nut that goes into the drivers side right by the pan. What kind of nut is it flared or compression fitting, when the jeep is at idle I see the fluid leaking from the nut where the line goes through it. How do you fix this, there is fluid all over the bottom of the transmission. Thanks for any reply's .

 

Welcome to CF!

I'm not sure, but I think it's a flare. If it is, it's probably cracked at the flare. If it's aluminum, it's hard to flare without cracking. I've replaced them with steel tubing on Chevy trucks many times. You just have to make a U-bend near the radiator to absorb the flex. There's only about 40 psi in those lines at the most.

 

Thanks do you know if I can buy the line at a auto parts store or does this have to be OEM?

 

check rockauto.com

 

I tried to get the nut off and it broke off from the line, Is there a way that I can be certain on how to order the right line? Also at worst case the nut sheared off the line and the line broken inside the nut, thinking drilling out broken line off nut having a sleeve welded onto nut and fasten with a piece of hose to coolant line, maybe just to get to shop to have new line installed, looks like a real pain to install new line, I am mechanical, just wandering how bad of a job to install new line?

 

I just went onto autozone website and found a " transmission coolant line assembly" which consist of a 12" piece of line one end has the nut on it with the steel line connected, you can thread this into the trans mission end the other end is open, thinking cutting the line and splicing the line with a rubber hose make the connection. Will this repair be ok?

 

As I said, just make sure the lines have some sort of a flare bubble on the ends and you should be okay. Use fuel hose though. What I've done is using the double flaring tools is start the flare with the insert with the pin on it and don't finish it. This creates a hump on the end of the tube that the hose can't slide off of. I think there isn't more than 20 to 40 psi in those lines. The hot line comes out of the converter and the return line just dumps into the pan.

I've used brass compression couplings before.

If you're so inclined, you can probably grab the trans end from a junkyard.

 

Thank you for the advise really appreciate it !

 

Not a problem. That's why I'm here. I like to help whenever I can. I'm an old fart, but many of these problems I've fixed in the past on other vehicles.

BTW, if you ever have to replace steel brake pipe, my advise is to use the new copper-nickle tubing. It's easy to work and doesn't rust. It's a little more in price, but well worth it.

 

I was able to get a hose over the line at one end with a hose clamp, I can not " flare bubble" the line it is in a very tight spot, can I use it this way and get new lines installed at a later time? Thanks for any reply!

 

ok so other line leaks now I am going to use some epoxy so I can drive to shop for estimate!