orvnoob

For starters, I'm a complete noob when it comes to mods for off roading. I'm looking to start a build on my '01 xj Limited and have no idea where to start.

My xj only has 88xxx miles on it, but has a good bit of rust throughout the undercarriage. With that in mind, I more or less want to replace just about everything. I know I want to lift it, install new axles(front and rear), beef up the steering and a few other cosmetic things. The trick is, it's my daily driver and will continue to be so it needs to have road manners(short highway commute 1-2x per week). Also, do to my living situation, I can't leave it on stands for more than a day or two, so I need to be able to complete any one project in that amount of time.

Clarification on the rust: the frame and body aren't rusting. It's mostly light rusting on easily replaceable parts. If i can replace a part, I'd prefer that to dealing with rust removal.

Currently, I'm considering a dana 44 to replace the front axle. I believe I have a Dana 35 on the rear and will most likely leave it and do a drum to disc conversion. Looking at a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift and 31-33" tires.

Any and all advice and constructive criticism is welcome.

Edits - after further consideration, I'm leaning toward the hp d30 on the front and C8.25 for the rear. Sourcing them is a different issue. Junkyards in my area really suck and are way overpriced. Thanks, Northeast. I eventually want for this to be something between a heavy trail machine and a crawler. I can't afford a different vehicle at the moment so it's going to stay my DD. Is there a way to upgrade the axles and gears now to prep for the heavier trail action I want to be able to use it for so that I can have some efficiency in my build?

Thanks.

jay_sco

Take care of rust first, most would reccomend swapping the D35 before worrying about the front. Steering can be done on the cheap with ZJ parts. RE lifts seem to be decent for the price.

PurpleToxin505

Definately address all the rust first, you need a solid foundation to build on. As far as axles go, if you only plan on 31s or 33s just find a HP D30 and a C8.25 off a 99 or older XJ and bolt them up, 33s aren't too much for our stock axles but the d35 rear is a time bomb if you wheel it,

orvnoob

Thanks for the heads up on the axle.

PurpleToxin505

No problem, the factory HP D30 and 8.25 are pretty stout up to 35s and can be built to somewhat handle 37s(depending where and how you wheel)

orvnoob

How do you go about checking the gear ratios on those to make sure they'e aligned?

PurpleToxin505

Well if they came off the same jeep they're likely the same. But to be for sure there should be a tag on the diff covers specifying what the gear ratio is. generally if you find a auto with a d30/8.25 combo it'll pretty much be guaranteed to be 3.55

aj2494

I have the RE 3.5" on mine, and just be aware that it'll be an inch or so higher without bumpers/winches/etc. RE is known for underrating lifts, which is a good thing IMO. Here are the parts that I found were necessary for that lift: (sorry, the list function isn't working right now for some reason)

SYE, rear driveshaft, 6 degree axle shims (these correct the angles of the rear driveshaft, may not be necessary)
Adjustable double shear trackbar (may not be necessary)
Adjustable lower control arms (I used RE's)
Front brake lines from YJ
Get an alignment

This is just off the top of my head so I might be missing something. When I say "may not be necessary", I mean that your Jeep will run and drive ok without them, but deathwobble and vibes might be an issue. Most people suggest that you install the kit and drive it to see if the vibes are bad. Then evaluate what you need. The trackbar definitely isn't a necessity and wasn't in my plans, but after I put it on, I don't know how I was driving it before. Big decrease in bump steer.

PurpleToxin505

yup^^^ I have RE 3.5" springs and had to dodo all that but went long arms.

andrewmp6

Since he has a 01 its a low pinion dana 30,But before you do anything i would figure out which head you have on it.Open the oil cap and look down in the head for the word tupy cast in to head if thats there you got the replacement head.If its not well you got the cracking head.

Fred/N0AZZ

Slight correction here the rear should be a 97 and up Chy 8.25 29 spline (I use this with 33 & 35" tires) and the front a 99 back HPD30 (opposed to the LPD30 in yours), plus both are a direct bolt in. The front needs to be done after the lift has been completed though.


This combo has worked OK for me but I do go easy on the skinny peddle and not to lazy to use the winch when needed.

PurpleToxin505

While I do agree the 29 spline would be preferred, but either the 27 or 29 will be an upgrade over the 35

aj2494

If you're buying an axle to put in it, 29 spline FTW hands down. Don't settle for a lesser part.

j4mison

If you're mostly just going to be driving on the roads and minor offroading, i wouldn't go anything over 4" of lift. that's really when all the other problems start to come up and needing more upgrades. depending on how you feel about cutting fenders, you can fit 33's on 3" of lift.

also, just hunt around junkyards for axles - it'll be much cheaper that way.
make sure you get rid of any and all rust first! I've seen too many sad pictures of rust eaten xj's.



goodluck with your build!! once you get it going make a build thread!

lukc22

I would leave your axles alone untill this becomes a trail rig... I dont think that you will be hard enough on it with 31 inch tires and it being your DD... The stock axles arent "weak", but there are stronger ones to upgrade to when the time comes... I would really put axles at the bottom of the list untill you want huge tires and serious rock crawling...