Project (insert name here)
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
Finally!!!! Got my computer (actually server) to act right and host the pictures. So, here are the pictures of the build.
here she is on the lift,

All the goodies



Some rear discs off a 98 Grand Cherokee with the Dana 35

HUGE PROJECT

Started by removing the rear axle so the rebuild could begin on it.


Then ran into some problems trying to get the leaf springs out. The shackle bolts were seized into the bushings and no amount of prying, heating, penetrating lube could get them out. So, this resulted in having to bust out the plasma cutter.


Once the springs were out I still had to get the bolts out. I tried to plasma cut the shackle but to no avail. To make matters worse the body nut on the inside of the unibody stripped and broke sooooo.....this led to having to cut the bolts and nuts out of the truck. Which left me with this.

This happened on both sides. To fix the problem I welded nuts to the back of large washers like so.

Using the new bolt through the holes to ensure alignment I welded the new nuts in place and painted.

Next started the build on the rear axle

For 200K the old 3.55's looked great. Always keep the oil changed

All torn apart and getting ready for paint
new gears installed, checking contact patches
here she is on the lift,

All the goodies



Some rear discs off a 98 Grand Cherokee with the Dana 35

HUGE PROJECT

Started by removing the rear axle so the rebuild could begin on it.


Then ran into some problems trying to get the leaf springs out. The shackle bolts were seized into the bushings and no amount of prying, heating, penetrating lube could get them out. So, this resulted in having to bust out the plasma cutter.


Once the springs were out I still had to get the bolts out. I tried to plasma cut the shackle but to no avail. To make matters worse the body nut on the inside of the unibody stripped and broke sooooo.....this led to having to cut the bolts and nuts out of the truck. Which left me with this.

This happened on both sides. To fix the problem I welded nuts to the back of large washers like so.

Using the new bolt through the holes to ensure alignment I welded the new nuts in place and painted.

Next started the build on the rear axle

For 200K the old 3.55's looked great. Always keep the oil changed


All torn apart and getting ready for paint
new gears installed, checking contact patches
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
I also installed the rear discs at this point while the rear axle was out and apart. This was super easy and only took a few minutes. While cutting a bracket however, I got into a fight with a angle grinder and a cut off wheel and resulted in two stitches and removal of part of my finger nail. Also a trip to the emergency room at 1 am (lots of fun).


One thing to note that took me a while to figure out and had to post a few questions on here, HOW THE **** do you get the center pin back into the carrier when going to 4.56s in an 8.25? The answer? You grind the pin down and grind part of the tooth off the ring gear to make clearance.....some how this just doesn't seem right.....(sorry for the bad pic it was very late and we were very tired)

Next came the SYE on the ole' np231...pretty huh?

Then the new cross member

My only complaint with the lift kit was this.

Brand new and the heim joint was already cracked and rusted. Should have called and complained....didn't have time. So a little cleaning and some welding and it was good as new.
Next dropped out the front axle and rebuilt it with 4.56s and low ratio carrier.


Once that was done it was a matter of assembling everything. Sorry for the gap in pictures during the process. I was working on different things as were the guys helping me build it and it was hard to run around getting photos of everything. I tried to document the important things. Also when combining everyone that helped work on it there is about 100hrs in it over a total of three days. This was dealing with lots of broken/stripped bolts that had to be drilled/tapped/welded. I personally worked several days from 7am till 1 or 2 am. All in all it was VERY worth it.
And now for the " finished " pics. (the thing will never be finished)









Things still to come
1. New rear bumper
2. Cut rear qtr panels
3. New front bumper
4. Winch
5. Gas tank skid
6. Install Hella's on roof rack
7. Diff bash guards


One thing to note that took me a while to figure out and had to post a few questions on here, HOW THE **** do you get the center pin back into the carrier when going to 4.56s in an 8.25? The answer? You grind the pin down and grind part of the tooth off the ring gear to make clearance.....some how this just doesn't seem right.....(sorry for the bad pic it was very late and we were very tired)

Next came the SYE on the ole' np231...pretty huh?

Then the new cross member

My only complaint with the lift kit was this.

Brand new and the heim joint was already cracked and rusted. Should have called and complained....didn't have time. So a little cleaning and some welding and it was good as new.
Next dropped out the front axle and rebuilt it with 4.56s and low ratio carrier.


Once that was done it was a matter of assembling everything. Sorry for the gap in pictures during the process. I was working on different things as were the guys helping me build it and it was hard to run around getting photos of everything. I tried to document the important things. Also when combining everyone that helped work on it there is about 100hrs in it over a total of three days. This was dealing with lots of broken/stripped bolts that had to be drilled/tapped/welded. I personally worked several days from 7am till 1 or 2 am. All in all it was VERY worth it.
And now for the " finished " pics. (the thing will never be finished)









Things still to come
1. New rear bumper
2. Cut rear qtr panels
3. New front bumper
4. Winch
5. Gas tank skid
6. Install Hella's on roof rack
7. Diff bash guards
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Former Tampa Fl. now Southern Indiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Nice work.......bonus for the little stitches and nail job(a true manacure).
Let us know how it rides with the new long arm kit...
Now you can call it project middle finger lol
Let us know how it rides with the new long arm kit...
Now you can call it project middle finger lol
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
So far it rides great, suspension is a little stiff but when the old shocks were so shot I could push them in and out with my pinky then I think anything is going to be stiff. The only thing I need to check is the locker, it pops and causes the Jeep to swerve to the right. Need to check its installation.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
Okay, so the locker is giving me hell! I want to get some action shots but can't even drive the darn thing! I am about ready to scrap it!
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 1
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L with throttle body spacer and cold air intake, bored throttle body, #784 injector upgrade
Know the feeling. Have a locker that is doing the same thing. Check your air pressure on your tires. The closer it is to being the same the less that will happen... hopefully. This helps mine only a little as mine is ready to just give up it's ghost.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
While driving in a straight line, going through or coming out of a right hand turn the locker would "slip or unlock" and make a horrible racket and it would feel as though I was being rear-ended by someone. At the same it would pull the Jeep to the right so hard it would nearly yank me off the road if I wasn't ready. In a straight line it would ratchet and cause the Jeep to drift right until I left off the gas at which point it would stop.
Here is the list of stuff they told me to check.
1. Tire pressure
2. Dragging brake caliper
3. Ground down center pin on the carrier
-This is actually very important! When installing larger gears in order to get the center pin you either have to grind a tooth on the gear or grind the center pin. I did a combination of both. However if grinding the center pin it is very important not to grind the pin in line with the retaining bolt hole (as I did) this throws off dimensions and will cause the locker to act up. After speaking with the tech staff and discovering this I ordered a new center pin and ground a groove in it 90 degree from the retaining bolt hole. This helped the locker problem but did not solve it.
4. Next thing to check was the hardness of the center pin. Apparently there has a been a problem in the past with pins being too soft and flexing or wearing out under load. To check the hardness of the pin run a file over the edge. If the file cuts a groove in the pin then it is too soft. This was not my problem.
5. Dimensions. Need to make sure center spacing is within range as well as axle to center pin clearance. Axle to center pin clearance should be within .005 from side to side if I remember correctly.
6. Last ditch effort. Remove the locker completely inspect for broken springs, pins, teeth, anything. Check and make sure pin holes are not oblong or oval shaped, make sure carrier is not damaged. Then flip the locker 180 degrees. I did this and don't know how or why but so far its working. I have about 100 miles on it and no problems yet.
Will report more after more miles.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
Yea, so far so good. The only thing now is I have to re-drain the oil and put rtv on the cover. I got so tired of running good oil threw it and scraping gasket off I put the cheapest oil I could find in it as well as used the paper gasket. Figures it would work right and I have to redo it anyway....O well as long as it stays this way i am happy.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,603
Likes: 0
From: Hollidaysburg, PA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 lt. 242 cu.in.
Gotta hate when you finally get the cheap stuff to throw in it and it decides to work right
Man I've been there....waayyy too many times.
Man I've been there....waayyy too many times.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
Windrock in Oliver Springs TN Trail number 38
Thank you!
They are BFG MT's KM1 they ran me $150 used with 1/4 to 1/2 tread left....just till i can afford the new 33x1050 km2's
I just did a little bit of paint work should have new pictures up soon
Thank you!
I just did a little bit of paint work should have new pictures up soon









