more pics, ended up breaking the mainshaft of my np 242

 

alrighty, so i got the t-case removed today, got a transmission jack and it made it a breeze to handle it by myself! goin to the jy tomorrow to hopefully get another np242 half off (so like $60!) not a bad deal in my opinion

 

Love the build. Why not a NP231 T-case?

 

I read on the Houston Roll Call thread that Pull your Part (on Sellars Road) is having half off sale tomorrow and Saturday. I need a rear windshield wiper and may go to get one

 

thought bout the 231 but the reason i am picking the 242 is because the sye is just a hack & tap since it has an external slip yoke shaft vs the np231 internal slip yoke shaft (so it's costly for the kit, when i already have the hack & tap since i had a 242). i figure if i'm going to drop more coin on the t-case, it will be for a d300. but this is just a quick fix for now

 

maybe we'll meet up there. i'll help you pull it if you need the help (if your hubby is busy)

 

so got an np231 today. has anyone out there switched from a 242 to a 231? if so, what was all involved? i can already tell that the wiring will have to be redone, i guess not too bad, but i just hate troubleshooting wires to get the correct lights to light up in the dash when i get into 4hi & 4lo, not to mention the speedo gear

 

I did the 242 to 231 swap on my 92 xj i just put the speedo sender from the 242 on to the 231 and it worked fine. Now the shift indicater light switch was different the 242 is electric and the 231 was vacuum you cannot swap them cause the one from the 242's threads are 2x longer than the 231. So with lots of research i found that the 1997 jeep tj 231 was electric and bolts right in but my dash lights don't work but all i do is look at the shifter cause it tells you there. Also you need to change the t case shifter because the shift gates are different and the 242 shift gate will not let the 231 shift into 4low. Hope all this helps.

 

definitely a big help. i figured out the speedo sensor right when i got it back and realized that one had flat prongs and the other had round ones. so i unbolted them to see if they were a direct swap, and it looks like they were . after that i had the bright idea that the shift sensors would be the same too, but as you stated, my 99 came with one about 5x longer than the 93 i got more threads, and the movable sensor was longer too. the light doesn't bother me too much though

i'm confused about what you mean by shift gates, the gates at the handle area, or all the linkage that is below the floorboard? if it is the gate at the lever, i will just get rid of it if it's the linkage, then i have to go back to the salvage yard and get the linkage tomorrow!

 

I can't remember if the linkage is the same but i swapped mine to be safe. The shift gate is what guides the shift lever I'm not sure i would cut it out might make your shifter sloppy and hard to find the right spot for your t case but that's my 2 cents.

 

Subed

 

thanks for the input i just got it swapped in today, tomorrow i will hook up the linkage, tap my fixed yoke into place, measure up for the rear shaft, change the fluid, and then run through the shifter to see what needs to be done in order to hit 4 lo. again the input has definitely been a great help in knowing what i will have to do and....

 

so i hooked everything up, just fyi, linkage will work, and i'm not sure, but i think i can hit 4lo on it (need to drive it to find out). latest development though, drilling through hardened steel is a PITA! so now i have a seal flange kit on order so that i can do the proper hack & tap instead of just the tap, cause once you hack it, you have access to softer metal on the inner portion of the shaft

 

I found the sye from advance adapters vary easy to use, MUST HAVE GOOD LOCK RING PLYERS, lots of new vocabulary words came into place using normal ones

 

thanks for the info jeepsurfer1, ima try this seal flange kit though, only $50 (plus the fixed yoke that i already had from my previous hack & tap). those sye's normally run from the upper 100's to $300.

i can say though (through experience) that a hack & tap doesn't weaken the shaft as i broke my shaft no where near the drilled & tapped section