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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #196  
Chex_Mex's Avatar
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by jeepsurfer1
Sounds like a solid plan bud
thanks man! hopefully it turns out well, still waiting on the flange seal kit before i can go run the jeep
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #197  
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From: Houston, Tx
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Originally Posted by just_jeepin
Yeah i was pretty disappointed when i figured i had a d35...
i had 1 too, u shoulda come out the jy to pull an 8.8, they had plenty of them out there, woulda cost you $70 or so. those things are nearly indestructible (a stock 8.8 is stronger than a stock dana 44)
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #198  
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From: Houston, TX
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Chex_Mex

i had 1 too, u shoulda come out the jy to pull an 8.8, they had plenty of them out there, woulda cost you $70 or so. those things are nearly indestructible (a stock 8.8 is stronger than a stock dana 44)
I know!! Unfortunately I was working that day and couldn't make it. I know theres a jy in Pasadena but r there any others in the Houston area?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #199  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by just_jeepin
I know!! Unfortunately I was working that day and couldn't make it. I know theres a jy in Pasadena but r there any others in the Houston area?
there's a few, but dunno what their prices are, this pull u part has a web site and had great prices (especially since it was half off). but you can get an 8.8 or an 8.25 for a lil over $100 if you just went on a whim (no half off)
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #200  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default Flange Seal In

got the flange seal in yesterday and then pressed the seal in
Attached Thumbnails Project Frankenstein-1.jpg   Project Frankenstein-2.jpg  
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #201  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default hack & tap......again...

so before puttin the seal in i had to hack & tap it again

a good way to do it is to turn the jeep on, then in 2wd shift to neutral (i have read to put it in reverse or drive, but i think the shaft spins way too fast imo)

once cut, you will have a pattern that converges to the center of the shaft, use a punch on that spot to help drill the hole on center
Attached Thumbnails Project Frankenstein-3.jpg   Project Frankenstein-4.jpg  
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #202  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default swapped in np231

after everything was completed, laid a bead of rtv on the flange seal, locktite on the bolts, and some atf on the seal, then bolted everything up. took some measurements, then got the shaft lengthened to fit. ready to hit the trails again
Attached Thumbnails Project Frankenstein-5.jpg   Project Frankenstein-6.jpg   Project Frankenstein-7.jpg  
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #203  
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From: bradenton, fl
Year: 1987
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
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So were you able to shift it to 4 low without it poping out or did you have to mod the shifter?
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 07:39 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by bigfltruck
So were you able to shift it to 4 low without it poping out or did you have to mod the shifter?
funny you should ask, it actually popped out of 4hi when i was driving it around the other day with only the front shaft in, scared the crap outta me (that i mighta broke something), but then i just popped it back in. haven't taken it wheeling to try 4lo yet, but i'm guessing i need to adjust the linkage some . i'll keep ya posted
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #205  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default np 231 question!!

looks like tomorrow i will finally get a chance to mess with the linkage on the t-case to see if only an adjustment is needed to keep it from popping out of 4hi. 4 lo seemed to stick well. so maybe changing the shifter gate won't be needed.

here's a general question that hopefully someone can answer (before i try and do the work myself). if i use the shift indicator light switch from the 242 and shim it to the same height as the one on the 231, would that work?

other option would be to splice on the male connector end to my jeep wiring, which would then require me figuring out all the wiring configuration (what's hot, what's not, in what mode...)
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #206  
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From: bradenton, fl
Year: 1987
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
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You can shim out the switch from the 242 but the lights did not work for me. The 97 tj 231 switch will plug right in but still no lights if you get this figured out let me know cause i will do it to mine good luck.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #207  
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From: Southend-on-Sea, Essex, England
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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nice build!

where did you get the jeep monster sticker? i love it
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:11 PM
  #208  
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From: Houston, Tx
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Originally Posted by kidrock666
nice build!

where did you get the jeep monster sticker? i love it
got it on ebay bro! pretty cheap & awesome, think i got about 2hp from it lol
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by bigfltruck
You can shim out the switch from the 242 but the lights did not work for me. The 97 tj 231 switch will plug right in but still no lights if you get this figured out let me know cause i will do it to mine good luck.
i think i'm going to keep the 231 as a back up t-case, and re-build the 242. it kept popping out of 4hi and 4lo while i was out a creekside the other day. just seems like too much trouble to get me happy with the set up
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Old May 1, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #210  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default We can rebuild it!

Gentlemen, we can rebuild my t-case. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first bionic t-case. my old np 242 will be that t-case. Better than it was before. Better, stronger, faster.....
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