Tree? I did something similar and also need a bumper.
FYI. The stock bumper and its brackets, distorts and collapses when impacted. An aftermarket steel bumper would be more likely to cause frame-rail damage when impacted.

 

Ford 150 or something. He left the scene while i was doing something with a biker that had been ejected. Yeah im going to get tie in brackets one way or another. Good tip though, even the tie in would mess up the frame? Obviously a strong enough impact will break a lot of stuff anyway.

 

End caps removed

 

Lift, SYE and track bar.

 

Put some new brake lines on for when i get the lift on. Went to bleed the lines and I snapped off my left cylinder valve and the left caliper valve....sweet. I also noticed fluid coming out of the passenger drum so it seems like it was time to replace the brakes. Maybe that was why my rear kept seizing when it rained. New calipers, drums, shoes, springs and TJ hoses.

 

Halfway done. Snapped all but one of the shock bolts on the rear so...im rolling with one shock held on by one bolt. I went and bought the air hammer and tried that route but those bastards are in there good. Not sure what to do. Hand tools only (except for that air hammer) on this build so i was working on the rear from 0730 to 1800. Im tired.

 

I was able to drill them out on mine when they broke. Ran over to the hardware store and bought some grade 8 bolts and washers. Works great so far.

 

What kind of bits do i need? I tried drilling but i barely made a dent in the metal.

 

I used a step bit on low speed with taping wax. After a small amount of material was removed I used a punch and a lump hammer to drive the rest out. Smooth sailing after that. Good luck.

 

When it comes to drilling metal, a high quality carbide bit is a must. Will cost about $5-$8 for one in this size. An easy-out or reverse drill bit 'might' also work.
If the captive nut gets stripped, should be able to fit another in there using fingertips or place nut snugly in a wrench to be able to reach in there.

 

Thanks guys. Id rather do something that will definately work than try a maybe solution. Im not too worried about threads, i planned on dropping a bolt through the top and tightening a BPE on with the nut. Grade 8 hardware of course. So should i go up in a bit size or would a 3/8 bit work?

 

If you removed your rear swaybar, the mounts located on leaf spring plate work perfect for BPE.

 

Yep, thats what im usin'. PO actually reinstalled them when he put in the lift blocks but took out the sway bar.

 

Hey man, I can't remember if you went with the rugged ridge SYE or not. I just had the oil seal leaking on mine. After some research I found the problem to be common. If u haven't installed it yet grab a national seal #3946 and replace the current seal. It will save u tons of aggregation. Hope the builds going good, post some more pics.

 

I got a teraflex SYE. Havnt even installed it yet. Still working on trying to get the lift on haha. I'll look up the teraflex kit to see if they have that issue too. Anyone have any ideas why my new leaf springs are squeaking when im going slow and hitting bumps? Sounds like the bushing rubbing or something.