Looks like the front end now matches the back!
Have you done the self-alignment yet?
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

 

Thanks! Haven't even measured it yet to see. I have not conducted the self alignment and I probably wont. I encountered a wonderfully stuck track bar and the drag link won't turn for me either so I will let Firestone take a gander. May as well use that lifetime alignment deal I payed for woth the tires lol.

The lower trac bar bolt came out no issues thank goodness. Also seemed like there was no wobbling out either so that is a plus. BUT when I went to remove the castle nut that thing would NOT budge. I pulled out the whole mount and bar assembly and clamped it between my press plates (no vice yet). Used an 8-point socket and my high lift bar and it STILL didn't budge. Of course I had hit it with penetrator and the oil from the engine was all over it anyway.

Called a buddy over and we cut the bar off the bolt hoping I could punch it through the stock mount. No dice. Cut off the nut and bolt sticking up, still didn't work. This was all so I could put on a new trac bar. Gotta love our jeeps.


Long story I ordered the RE mount and trac bar that goes with it. Out for delivery today. Taking off work tonight so I can hopefully get her back on the road.

 

It's always something.. That TRE in the chassis bracket has caused headaches for many members.
FYI. The RE trac-bar should come with a larger diameter bolt for axle end. Will have to drill out the hole on axle bracket, precisely. I believe it is 9/16".

If you have adjustable control arms, Firestone will likely not adjust them. If they do they will charge for that. If the arms are fixed than they can hopefully use the stock shim technique to dial in the caster.
Also, they will adjust according to what the computer says, which could result in improper pinion angle. Check for correct angle.
Also, request a 'printout', they are free with the alignment and will have all the specs we like to see and reference from.

 

Thanks for the info. Firestone is really good about giving me copies of the readout.

RE1600 requires drilling of the axle mount.
RE1660 utilizes the original axle bolt.

I ordered the 1600 awhile ago but since the stock mount is FUBAR I got the 1665 mount which needs the 1660 bar.

I got the fixed LCAs for now. I've had the front DS out for a bit so I can address the pinion issue later. Gotta get the DD back on the street first!

 

Looks good man

 

That is rather odd, that the bar requiring a new chassis bracket, uses the stock bolt in axle.
Anyway, to address the pinion angle later will require changing the alignment (caster). Might as well install the DS and dial in the alignment then and there.
But if you have free lifetime alignments than I guess it would work. May want to ask if there is a limit.

 

I agree I found that odd as well.

I will being the DS with me when I go there and ask what they think. I'll check to see if they have a limit too and letcha know.

Question: why don't we need Longer drag links when we do a lift? I know there are drop pitman arms and 1 ton steering setups available. But won't such a change in height cause your steering unable to fully rotate?

 

Good question. After lifting the drag-link is lengthened to return the steering wheel to center. Easily done with the adjuster sleeve and may have to do this yourself.
Steering will still turn lock to lock but when suspension is drooped the draglink TRE's will reach their limit and prevent further droop on one side of axle. This is the purpose of drop pitmans and OTK steering. To flatten out the steering angles.

 

rrroger. Guess a pitman arm drop is in my future. Will I be able to drive without adjusting the sleeve? I don't have a pipe wrench and it wouldn't move when I clamped down with grip pliers.

EDIT: Nvm I just saw you said the wheel will turn lock to lock

 

Negative on the pitman arm drop. It will cause bumpsteer. The angle of trackbar and the angle of draglink should be identical, parallel. Nevermind the bends in bar, use the mount/pivot points and imagine a string going from pivot to pivot.

The Only thing that happens when the draglink adjuster is turned is it moves the steering wheel. Does not change anything else. There is a bolt on both ends of sleeve, loosen bolts and sleeve 'should' turn. If it is so rusty that the sleeve will not turn with bolts loosened, then soak it in a penetrate and try again next day. In the meantime, will just have to deal with steering wheel being off center.

When you get the adjuster working, put a piece of tape or something to mark the top center of steering wheel. Then after you adjust, can peek over the hood to see when it is centered and to make sure you are turning in the right direction. Will likely have to do this adjustment again after a test drive to get steering wheel perfectly centered.

 

Alright guys. Lift complete! Guy asked me today if I was a mechanic so I must be doing something right lol.

Lessons I learned:
-assume any jeep work will take 6 hrs more
-you need lower control arms
-breaker bars are awesome

LEAF SPRINGS:
Went on pretty straight forward. I had new bolts so that was nice. Shackles are still at 90° but I still haven't checked to see if I over torqued the shackle bolts.

Shocks.....were another story. I learned you can't have one shock on with one bolt....IT MOVES. Duh. So I ran on just the leaf springs, no shocks. If your springs are correct they will function fine without shocks....things will just be very bouncy back there. Shocks simply absorb impacts and slow the bounce....go figure. I grabbed a 3/8 but and drilled them out. Took forever but it worked. Used the sway bar mounts as BPES and they work just fine.

FRONT SPRINGS

Yikes. Old springs and LCAs came off just fine. I got the springs in and then hit a huge issue when the new fixed LCAs didn't line up. I didn't have ratchet straps on hand and it was late at night.


I tried to move the jeep in slow reverse. Bad plan. Just in case anyone wants to know, the axle folds up under. I didn't have a front DS in so those frout springs looked like a C. Oddly if you backed up and hit the brakes, the axle stopped first and the jeep picked up and sat how its supposed to. Yeah dont do that. I had to get a tow truck to move the rig 100 ft to a parking space so I wouldn't get impounded. Yeah. Apartment life. This is how it looked in the morning.





Ratchet straps fixed it real quick. Looped them around the front tow hitch. I then couldn't get the track bar out of the mount. We cut off the ball joint and STILL couldn't get it out. Cut off the nut, nope. I got the HD setup from rubicon express. Drilled a 1/2 in hole and it all works fine.








I need more terrain. Lol.

 

Looks solid, nice work man.

 

Thanks jaster. More to come for sure. Still need to rebuild front DS (lame event after all this lol), take off the tcase drop, do some shims if I need them, get that dang jcr bumper so I can fix the front end visual....maybe do b lees steering upgrade? Under the knuckle is fine by me.
Long arms...maybe rough country but I hear it drops the tcase...ideas?

BODY WORK. I need to fix that rust man. Cut and fold seems to be the only option for the rear quarter panels since so much is gone. Bondo or jb weld those roof corners.

Tires -31s or 32s? I don't want to delete my flares. I'm proud of my gunmetal flares. I REALLY don't want to get new gears because gawd the money for those is insane...but I will if I have to. I like the complete look of the 32s but I know I will suffer power on hills for the DD. I'm planning on the bfg ko2 eventualy.

This is all assuming I run into $3k.

 

I'd love long arms but for now I'm gonna settle with the RE CA drop bracket. I run 31's with 5" of lift and I'm already getting the itch for 33's. I have 33's on my wrangler and have become to used to the awesomeness. That extra 2" will make an XJ look that much more badass. Plus I need 33's and at least one locker to attend the Catskills jeep jamboree so I feel like I have no choice. I am very happy with the Mickey Thompson Deegan's, worth checking out as an alternative to the BFG's. I just did Flowmaster high flow CAT and Super 44 muffler, gained a ton of power. Highly recommend when your current system takes a **** (because it's a jeep and it will). Now if we could all come into some money everything would be perfect.

 

SO, went to corolla yesterday. If i wasnt hooked before i am now. Found some good flex spots, sand was fun, we even found some mud!!! She performed great and i think if i get bigger tires i may want to get bumpstops lol. Btw the horse came to us and took a dump right in front of my jeep. We were sitting for awhile on his road lol