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I got a teraflex SYE. Havnt even installed it yet. Still working on trying to get the lift on haha. I'll look up the teraflex kit to see if they have that issue too. Anyone have any ideas why my new leaf springs are squeaking when im going slow and hitting bumps? Sounds like the bushing rubbing or something.
X2, The Rugged Ridge seal is notorious for leaking, suggested to not use it.
Poly bushings in leaf springs can be squeaky. Both poly and rubber should be lubed prior to installation (lube safe for rubber).
Did you lube the bolt/bushing in shocks for BPE?
If the shackle bolts are too tight, will prevent shackle from articulating, possibly causing the squeak. Shackle bolts should have a stop-nut on them because they are only snugged, not torqued down.
Yeeeah im still trying to get the snapped bolts out. Just grabbed a cobalt 5/16 bit last night so im gonna try and fix those today.
The bushing that sits on the inside of the leaf was lubed but the part that contacts the jeep was dry...i needed a rubber mallet to pound it into the front eye space...the rear shackle moved quite freely when i put things together. Zone gave me torque specs for things but i never checked the shackle....didnt know it could bend since it seemed so tough.
Here are diagrams for proper driveline angles, stock 2-joint and then SYE with double-cardon driveshaft.
The extra pinion angle required for the SYE conversion is acheived by degree shims that sit under leaf springs, and/or longer than stock shackles.
I appreciate the timely reply steve. The SYE goes on next. I DO have 1 inch extended bomerang shackles they sent me and i can tell the pumpkin is pointed more towards than before. Wooould you recommend finding a transmission jack for getting the tcase out? I hear its heavy
Some leaf springs come with the shims attached, is there a wedge block underneath the packs?
The SYE can be installed without removing TC. Clean up the case before opening, a quality pair of snap-ring pliers is a must.
If you really want to pull it, it weighs 85 pounds. Use a piece of plywood on your chest!! Like 2' x 2'. That is how I do it (150 lbs 5'8"). A lift would be safer of course.
Let me know what you decide, I would be glad to assist further, in any way.
While I'm studying up on the SYE install I've been having issues with my starter staying engaged. Went and did some noggin' pokin' and I believe I need a new gasket. Yaaaaay.....
Quick reply here, I'm headed off to work.
From those pics it looks like the OFA is leaking, oil filter adapter. It takes like 3 o-rings and is notorious for leaking. Really needs to be cleaned up some to determine if there are additional leaks.
The new leaf springs are look nice. Rear brake soft-line appears to be too short. It needs to be long enough to allow axle to fully droop and with a bit of slack left over.
Last edited by SteveMongr; Jun 18, 2015 at 04:33 PM.
Yeah they still creak a little after the shocks, but way less. I will check the soft line. It's from a TJ (bleepinjeep idea). I have the bracket from the lift so I will put that on as well. Thanks for the info man have fun at work.
After lifting, it is always advisable to check clearance and compatibility of components. This involves raising jeep to allow axles to fully droop. Look for brake lines too short (e-brake too), shackles hitting tailpipe, etc.
Slowly but surely. Began working on the SYE install yesterday afternoon and hit a snag trying to get the last ring off with my snap ring pliers. I couldn't get the metal "flange" out from the top cover and I had to get that ring out to remove the top cover! I beat the crap out of the metal seal to gain access to the ring but after three hours of trying I had a severe headache. Steve and a few other helped me figure out that I needed a pair of lock ring pliers to get the ring out. So today, victory was mine! Haven't finished yet due to storm coming on, but I'm a lot closer
than before!
It's a whole new jeep! Before the shaft would clunk when going into drive or reverse. Now it's solid as hell (U joint lol). Although dum dum here forgot to torque the rear top cover bolts down all the way and then add fluid and drive. So now I have a leak around the thing. I tightened those bolts down now and added some more gasket around the outside edge where it was leaking ....probably going to have to take the thing apart again.
Starter would not shut off from all this oil leaking. I drove 5 minutes with the starter on and then it sounded like it broke or burned out....it wasn't making the normal grinding noise. So I replaced the starter and she starts fine now. Also my A/C is now working??? The flywheel teeth looked and felt a little rough right where the starter was but the rest of the teeth seemed fine.
