Tidewater/Hampton Cherokees????
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Fort Eustis Virginia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
I have had that issue before.
When you install new calipers be sure and look closely at the tabs on steering knuckle where the brake pad ends make contact.
This area gets nicked or roughened and can cause the brake pad to stick. It generally needs to be cleaned up every time brake pads go on (emery cloth, file).
How hot did your brakes get and for how long? If they were smoking/stinking hot for any period of time, it will have detrimental effects on the hub/wheel bearings! When was the last time the hub bearings were replaced?
Good news is calipers come with new pads. I suggest NAPA for hard parts, not Advanced or Autozone.
When bleeding the brakes its a good time to flush out the old brake fluid. I use the technique that does not require a second person (clear hose and jar).
When you install new calipers be sure and look closely at the tabs on steering knuckle where the brake pad ends make contact.
This area gets nicked or roughened and can cause the brake pad to stick. It generally needs to be cleaned up every time brake pads go on (emery cloth, file).
How hot did your brakes get and for how long? If they were smoking/stinking hot for any period of time, it will have detrimental effects on the hub/wheel bearings! When was the last time the hub bearings were replaced?
Good news is calipers come with new pads. I suggest NAPA for hard parts, not Advanced or Autozone.
When bleeding the brakes its a good time to flush out the old brake fluid. I use the technique that does not require a second person (clear hose and jar).
Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey guys, just installed my lift kit this past weekend and I was wondering where is the best place to get it aligned around here? I also wouldn't mind them being knowledgeable about lifted trucks so they can double check my work.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,482
Likes: 25
From: Virginia Beach by way of Michigan
Starr motors out in Suffolk or Eastern Offroad in VB. Eastern is a little pricier, but they know their stuff. Starr is usually a little less, but possibly a further drive depending on where you are.
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Definitely use an experienced shop which understands that pinion angle has precedence over caster.
Here is a link to DIY alignment. For thrust angle and track bar alignment I use a method called 'stringing' (second link).
Maybe someone from the forum, familiar with the nuances and details of the XJ can look over your work.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/chassiste...ring_your_car/
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...try_stringing/
Last edited by SteveMongr; Apr 9, 2014 at 09:15 AM. Reason: correct a link
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Good condition. Just does not go with my blue XJ.
For front seats with removable headrests including the ZJ seat which I have installed.
Costs a ridiculous $500 new.
(I have better pics but they are not uploading)
Also have 4.11 re-gear package F&R w/carrier
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,482
Likes: 25
From: Virginia Beach by way of Michigan
Interested in trades? I have a full set of Red/Black Wet Okole neoprene seat covers. Waterproof.
Good condition. Just does not go with my blue XJ.
For front seats with removable headrests including the ZJ seat which I have installed.
Costs a ridiculous $500 new.
(I have better pics but they are not uploading)
Also have 4.11 re-gear package F&R w/carrier
Good condition. Just does not go with my blue XJ.
For front seats with removable headrests including the ZJ seat which I have installed.
Costs a ridiculous $500 new.
(I have better pics but they are not uploading)
Also have 4.11 re-gear package F&R w/carrier
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hood lift
I got the idea from the forums and have been involved in numerous 'discussions' on these.
The main difference you will notice is either the strut is mounted in the middle of hood like mine, or mounted on the hinge arm or next to hinge on hood.
The difference is, the hinge area mount will prop the hood open but may not lift it open. The setup I installed will lift the hood after I open it about 5".
Below 5" the struts are not mechanically advantaged. Therefore do not put strain on the closing latches or the pop-up latch.
Also, the smaller struts use a higher psi rating and will apply more pressure to the mounts and fasteners.
I like the longer ones (stock 1996 and earlier) because they seem more supportive, especially in the wind. Installed over 2 years ago and still works perfectly. I have had the hood open for days at a time too, no ill effects.
One strut will hold the hood but not lift it.
New struts are too powerful.
1997+ XJ's will have an issue with the washer bottle, addressed in one of these links.
I used struts from my liftgate that would no longer support it.
The liftgate strut size changed for the 1997+ models, I am unsure how they will work.
The mounts are 10mm ball-studs reversed on the bracket.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Exterior.htm
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/get...res-how-12341/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/di...-struts-90514/
The main difference you will notice is either the strut is mounted in the middle of hood like mine, or mounted on the hinge arm or next to hinge on hood.
The difference is, the hinge area mount will prop the hood open but may not lift it open. The setup I installed will lift the hood after I open it about 5".
Below 5" the struts are not mechanically advantaged. Therefore do not put strain on the closing latches or the pop-up latch.
Also, the smaller struts use a higher psi rating and will apply more pressure to the mounts and fasteners.
I like the longer ones (stock 1996 and earlier) because they seem more supportive, especially in the wind. Installed over 2 years ago and still works perfectly. I have had the hood open for days at a time too, no ill effects.
One strut will hold the hood but not lift it.
New struts are too powerful.
1997+ XJ's will have an issue with the washer bottle, addressed in one of these links.
I used struts from my liftgate that would no longer support it.
The liftgate strut size changed for the 1997+ models, I am unsure how they will work.
The mounts are 10mm ball-studs reversed on the bracket.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Exterior.htm
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/get...res-how-12341/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/di...-struts-90514/
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 22
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This link has a hood lift kit, put together and sold by a forum member.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/di...rt-2-a-189040/
$475 for gear package
USA Standard (Yukon)
Koyo Bearings
Yukon carrier
D30 reverse cut
Chrysler 8.25
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/di...rt-2-a-189040/
$475 for gear package
USA Standard (Yukon)
Koyo Bearings
Yukon carrier
D30 reverse cut
Chrysler 8.25
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,482
Likes: 25
From: Virginia Beach by way of Michigan
Resident Zombie Hunter
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 2
From: Virginia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 5,482
Likes: 25
From: Virginia Beach by way of Michigan
Part 2 of TheXJGuys' XJ 4.0 Maintenance 101 is up! Take a look and see what you need to do to keep that cooling system in tip-top shape!
http://thexjguys.com/?p=560
http://thexjguys.com/?p=560
