Got a photo of it in the Xj?

 

Yes

 

If u look on cl there are 2 for sale mine is 300 the other is 700

 

Didn't take long at all, and it sounds great.

 

Anyone know of a good junk yard in Hampton roads or surrounding area that is cheap? I would go to Pick-N-Pull but they are somewhat expensive. I'm looking for a hood and a NP242.

 

Right around the corner from the pick n pull is Oceana Salvage. But they are MUcH smaller. You'll have to call before you go.

 

Yea it's one of those things I've been meaning to do just haven't. Do you have photos of what you used?

 

i used a square block of foam from the stock bumper covers to block the opening on the front of the air box and r.t.v'd it in.(just make it real tight and stuff it in there) on the back of the box drill, cut dremel a 3 inch hole out r.t.v the hose into the hole and seal it with the coupling that comes with the hose. drill another 3 inch hole in the firewall almost under the wiper use the mounting plate to make it look nice and a bit more sturdy( self tapping screws and r.t.v) took me an hour total

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=2556446

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=862362_0_0_

 

Been a while since I've gotten a chance to update. I finally got my long arms on, along with the rebuilt front axle. I swapped out that LP for a HP30 that I had regeared to 4.56, new seals, alloy axle seals new ball joints and new upper control arm bushings. I ended up putting 1.5 teraflex spacers back on the front so I'm sitting at 5 inchs.

I'm so close to have working 4wd, there's an issue with the front driveshaft, I'm getting some bad binding noise and vibration. Going to try new u joints, or if I can find a shop have it completely rebuilt. After I take the plunge and do the hack and tap ill go ahead and lift the rear to level it out.

 

Looks good! Which radius arm set up did you go with? looks like the one Serious sells.

On the HnT, REALLY make sure that tap is centered and straight! I've been looking at 'em as compared to a full on SYE kit and part of me says the extra money is worth the lack of risk for messing it up. Still undecided which way I'm gonna go. I need to, just haven't yet.

 

In the pictures it is apparent that the pinion angle is 'low'. This will cause driveshaft vibrations. Easy fix.
Once set up, the radius arm style will keep the pinion pointed at the transfer case output when the suspension articulates. The caster is what changes with droop and compression.
3-Link and 4-link it is the opposite effect.
The hack-n-tap is fairly easy. Washers can be used as a drill guide. Or drill the pilot hole before cutting because the output shaft has an indent that makes it easy to drill centered. The cut-off is only 1.5" so drill past the cut and you will be good to go.

 

It is serious offroad long arm setup, its very beefy and rides much better but install was a bit of a pain and lacking in instructions. Its very nice though I like it.

At least you have options for the hack and tap on the rear, I have a 242 not too many options for me to choose.

 

Those pictures are still with the LP dana 30. I have a slightly different setup with the HP30. Ill get some pics up after I come back from my hunting trip, I had a hell of a time getting the pinion angle set.

 

The same hack-n-tap yoke for the 231 TC also fits the 242. No modification needed.
I have done two 242's with the IRO yoke.
Corvette also has a yoke that works with 231 and 242 output shafts.

 

I already have the iro hack and tap kit with jig. What I was talking about was a full replacement main shaft professionally cut and tapped already vs the hack and tap kit. For the 231 you can buy the whole new main shaft and swap that in, but I don't have that choice with the 242.