Four Corners BS thread!!
Originally Posted by djlarroc
yeah.. you're right at the point on either/or..
you already have a locker in your 8.25, so need to spend on the gears. Or, you could sell that axle pretty well and buy that 8.8 for about $100 w/4:10s and spend another $300 on the 8.8 locker.
i have seen used 8.8 lockers a lot more than 8.25 though.
i had an 8.25 w/4:56 and powertrax, and sold it for $450 earlier this year.. when I had the zj... You could prob get $300-325 for your axle..
i think it would prob be better to spend on the gears, if you stay w/a 33" tire.
you already have a locker in your 8.25, so need to spend on the gears. Or, you could sell that axle pretty well and buy that 8.8 for about $100 w/4:10s and spend another $300 on the 8.8 locker.
i have seen used 8.8 lockers a lot more than 8.25 though.
i had an 8.25 w/4:56 and powertrax, and sold it for $450 earlier this year.. when I had the zj... You could prob get $300-325 for your axle..
i think it would prob be better to spend on the gears, if you stay w/a 33" tire.
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From: parker, co
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
If you wanna learn a lil more about axles, there's a great thread that just got started in advanced tech called "axle info". It's getting put together slowly but surely with a ton of great info. If I wasn't on my phone I'd link it.
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Jesus I hope not, not unless I can support em.... Which is why I'm in school?....
Yes! Thanks a ton... I guess I didn't think much about brakes though as well... I think a HP30 would still work cause it's got discs and is stronger, and I was planning on leaving my 8.25... But, now that I think about it I really wanna add discs to the rear and more aggressive pads on each corner.... I know there's a few conversions but I haven't looked at all at what's the easiest, cheapest, most common, etc. etc. etc...
Enjoy the red
Yes! Thanks a ton... I guess I didn't think much about brakes though as well... I think a HP30 would still work cause it's got discs and is stronger, and I was planning on leaving my 8.25... But, now that I think about it I really wanna add discs to the rear and more aggressive pads on each corner.... I know there's a few conversions but I haven't looked at all at what's the easiest, cheapest, most common, etc. etc. etc...
Enjoy the red

if i have the want later, i would like to also upgrade the d30 rotors to wj rotors.. but that's really overkill there for 31-32" tires haha.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well $ per $, the 8.8 is hard to beat. they are plentiful at the JYs, and you can get them w/factory lsd, and 4:10s. i dont see why someone would pay a bunch more for a d44 (unless you are buying Dustin's haha). but the lockers for the 8.8 are cheaper than for a 8.25 and actually in stock. aussie is constantly sold out on the 8.25 locker. and discs are good in the city, but they are better on the trail, when you are trying to ease down something. after i switched to the 8.8, it would stop my super swampers way better.
if i have the want later, i would like to also upgrade the d30 rotors to wj rotors.. but that's really overkill there for 31-32" tires haha.
if i have the want later, i would like to also upgrade the d30 rotors to wj rotors.. but that's really overkill there for 31-32" tires haha.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think I was gonna do 4.56s anyway, so I don't really think I'll mind having to change gears... I'm thinking ahead to run 35s, not 33s. Does the 8.8 require shortening and such, what do you have to cut off and weld on to make it work? As for aussie, they seem popular for the lunchbox stuff, but my plans are me having patience and putting ARBs in the front and rear. As for the discs, still isn't there conversions and what not? I mean, if it comes down to it I'll get an 8.8 but like I mentioned, I haven't really started looking into it cause I don't have the $$.
the 8.8 is a tad narrower than the 8.25. About 5/8" per side. you only have to cut off the spring perches as they are spring under, and re-weld them to the top. and lay a bead around the axle tube. also you need a flange adapter which you can grab at the jy, or order new for like $15. that's about it. there is disc conversions for the 8.25, from a zj but i think it's about as much work and $ as just doing the 8.8.
ARBs are a great choice if you don't mind spending the coin.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
4.88s you think? 35s I think will be a min. for my Jeep way down the road... IF I keep it that long.... Haven't had ANY vehicle for longer than a year and a half (I know Dustin, you win lol). The narrower axle isn't an issue, welding isn't an issue, but I wanna keep it simple and leaving the 8.25 might just be the easiest.... I don't mind looking up the disc conversion and it seems like enough people like Seth and Josh like selectables that it's worth waiting and saving for em.... I saw a lot of people a while back when I first joined saying they liked their lunchboxes but wanted OXs or ARBs
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah selectable is hands down always the best choice. 4:88s is good. the pinion starts to get small w/that deep of gear, but still pretty safe. unless you get a 5.9 in there, then you can go back to 4:56 lol.. God, that thing had *****.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: parker, co
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I think the selectable in the rear is a waste. Throw a sweet Detroit back there, save yourself a couple hundred, and call it a day. If it's a trailered rig or crawler only you'll most likely have a spool anyway. Now the front, that's a different story, selectable FTW!!!
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I've been getting a lot of boxes at home lately..
Here's what I've gotten so far:
HD offroad shackle relocation brackets
JKS disconnects
Dana 30 truetrac
Aussie 8.8 locker
Dana 30 lower control arm skids
RC 3" coil springs and shocks - thanks Jeremy
HD offroad main stiffeners
Ironman4x4 fab upper and lower control arms
(5) TJ moab wheels w/245/75 16 MTR
What do you guys think?
Here's what I've gotten so far:
HD offroad shackle relocation brackets
JKS disconnects
Dana 30 truetrac
Aussie 8.8 locker
Dana 30 lower control arm skids
RC 3" coil springs and shocks - thanks Jeremy
HD offroad main stiffeners
Ironman4x4 fab upper and lower control arms
(5) TJ moab wheels w/245/75 16 MTR
What do you guys think?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 1
From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I hadn't really given much thought to a LSD or something in the back cause some of the reviews I've read have people saying that it doesn't seem like anything is back there at all... And by 5.9 you mean the v8 in the red jeep? That'd be sweet haha, honestly WAY down the road, who knows if I'll even have a Jeep, I think it'd be cool to try to get a turbodiesel under the hood.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 1
From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pull a battery cable from a JY car and terminate the ends yourself? Might be cheaper but I don't know what a welding shop would charge for that kind of cable
Was wondering about that, it's the negative cable I need. What's the difference between using a battery cable as opposed to getting the cable from a welding shop?




