LAS VEGAS XJ GROUP-----> 1st ROLL CALL.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
drain and clean your system. Then make sure you have no air bubbles. When I got this thing it would rise up to 220 ever stop light. Turns out the rad was low even though it looked full because of the stupid fill port design. I always fill my system from the upper radiatior hose. take it off and spray into the block till it comes out the hose. It helps prevent air pockets that are so hard to deal with on the i6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV - St. George, UT
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I ran the prestone flush through mine with the thermostat stuck open. Drain and fill a few times to get it all out and run the normal 50/50 mix. I hit 200 normal driving and 210 in traffic. My fan is on a bypass switch just in case, but I have never needed it.
With my luck, something else will break on the cooling system after I fix this suspension.
With my luck, something else will break on the cooling system after I fix this suspension.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
I ran the prestone flush through mine with the thermostat stuck open. Drain and fill a few times to get it all out and run the normal 50/50 mix. I hit 200 normal driving and 210 in traffic. My fan is on a bypass switch just in case, but I have never needed it.
With my luck, something else will break on the cooling system after I fix this suspension.
With my luck, something else will break on the cooling system after I fix this suspension.
how do I clean it? do I run anything special through it? and I burp the radiator until its completely full.. altho im sure it probably sucks down air still. I want to try takeing the tstat out and run an open system. did that on my last jeep and it didn't overheat anymore. itd be a temp fix but it doesn't get cold enough here to let it bother me much while I find the real problem. the cooling ports in the block are probably clogged. not to sure how to unclog them if they are.. my last radiator rusted completely away and probably left a bunch of **** in the block.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV - St. George, UT
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is the fan clutch up to par? Shroud in one piece and in place? Nothing blocking the radiator air flow?
I parked mine with the nose down, cap off, heater on, and let it reach operating temp. Parking with the nose up, I still had air in the system that I could not get out.
I parked mine with the nose down, cap off, heater on, and let it reach operating temp. Parking with the nose up, I still had air in the system that I could not get out.
where were you taking the temp at? the sensor on your tstat housing feeds the ECM. ECM commands it on at 218 and off at 209. I would guess temp guns wouldnt be super accurate on a cherokee because of the super high under hood temps and heat saturation. The dash gauge is feed off of the rear of the temp sensor on the rear of the head FWIW. or hell it is a chrysler product for all we know the wires feeding the temp sensor could be ****ty and have high resistance giving the ecm lower temps than actually are.
Jon what radiator did you put in there when you replaced it?
Im running an old *** beat up 3 core with ZJ clutch and no fan shroud and like I said before no problems other than putting the fan through the rad a few times lol.
Im running an old *** beat up 3 core with ZJ clutch and no fan shroud and like I said before no problems other than putting the fan through the rad a few times lol.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: North Las Vegas
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rustys lowers and stock uppers here too. arms are whats gonna limit your travel with short arm set ups. rob and I are both getting full droop out of the arms. only upgrade is long arm or custom mounts. your pinon shouldnt be all messed up with propper length arms. you can still adjust them on the frame side. the main reason for adjustable arms is to push the axle forward into its proper spot. Long arms help combat the axle being pulled back through droop because the longer arm has a bigger arch.
FWIW did my upper bushings last night. the frame side of the arms can be done in 5min with a hammer. the axle side is more tricky. driver side that you have pictured is a ***** and I had to remove the coil for room. the pass side is alot easier just the flimsy mount sucks and had to make a spacer to keep it from crushing
this is droop maxing out on the arms


Oh by the way, my rock lights came in today

FWIW did my upper bushings last night. the frame side of the arms can be done in 5min with a hammer. the axle side is more tricky. driver side that you have pictured is a ***** and I had to remove the coil for room. the pass side is alot easier just the flimsy mount sucks and had to make a spacer to keep it from crushing
this is droop maxing out on the arms


Oh by the way, my rock lights came in today

Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: North Las Vegas
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yea when they pulled it into the shop they said it moved on it own but was smoking and shaking like hell even with 4 bent push rods 5 jamed lifters and im shur a piston or two ****ed up it still moved on its own cant kill the i6



