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XJ Ask the Question Thread
I got a diagnostics performed on my 95 xj 4.0L automatic 4x4, and they discovered that i need a new crank position sensor. Its a $70 part and the shop wanted close to $400, so i've decided to replace it myself. Any tips before i get started? Or a link to a good tutorial on how to do this?
-thanks
-thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by mewantmud
I got a diagnostics performed on my 95 xj 4.0L automatic 4x4, and they discovered that i need a new crank position sensor. Its a $70 part and the shop wanted close to $400, so i've decided to replace it myself. Any tips before i get started? Or a link to a good tutorial on how to do this?
-thanks
-thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 28,068
Likes: 6
From: Tenn. and Mich.
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
I got a diagnostics performed on my 95 xj 4.0L automatic 4x4, and they discovered that i need a new crank position sensor. Its a $70 part and the shop wanted close to $400, so i've decided to replace it myself. Any tips before i get started? Or a link to a good tutorial on how to do this?
-thanks
-thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
So yesterday my jeep was running a little hot. Not major, but shouldn't be happening since I just did a coolant flush and put a 165° T-stat in. For a about a week or two it was running at like 190°. But then it worse. Now, here where it get fun. Last night after going or a short drive, after I shut it off about 60 seconds later it blows coolant throw the radiator cap. I cleaned it up and thought I just over filled it a little since I did just put some in before the drive. The today I was driving and it got up to 260° and blew some more coolant. First time about 20 oz of antifreeze, this time probably about the same maybe a little less. Not sure what to do other than add water or more antifreeze. But maybe you guys have a better theory. Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!
Jon
Thanks!
Jon
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I may be answering my own question, but I'd like to confirm. Since it is a close system, could an old radiator cap that isn't sealing right causing it to not hold pressure therefore boil over through there, it seems like the only place it is spitting out but don't know for sure.
Also, i Noticed it went from 220 and jumped straight to 260, did not pass go, did not collect $200.
And it idled awfully and stalled out I couldn't let it idle, but I feel like that's normal when it gets hot.
Also, i Noticed it went from 220 and jumped straight to 260, did not pass go, did not collect $200.
And it idled awfully and stalled out I couldn't let it idle, but I feel like that's normal when it gets hot.
Last edited by Skyline; May 4, 2012 at 07:17 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Az
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
i was looking at my jeep the other day and noticed the trannie fluid lines do not go to the radiator but to what looks like an aftermarket air cool device placed in front of the radiator. does anybody know if this is better then going through the radiator? or should i run the lines back the way it was stock. thanks!
This has happens about 4 times: when i turn my 99 on it will idle fine but then will drop down really low to like 200 rpm... If I rev it up or restart it it will work fine... Will sea foaming the whole thing make it any better (its never had it done before and I was gonna do it soon)
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Sounds like your rad cap or radiator is toast, or you aren't moving any air through the system. You didn't mention your year but your profile lists a 2000 XJ - this is an open cooling system, not closed (Haynes manual is full of crap).
I don't understand why people put 165* thermostats in? All that's going to do is either make you fail emissions tests or it'll overheat later instead of sooner.
I don't understand why people put 165* thermostats in? All that's going to do is either make you fail emissions tests or it'll overheat later instead of sooner.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
This has happens about 4 times: when i turn my 99 on it will idle fine but then will drop down really low to like 200 rpm... If I rev it up or restart it it will work fine... Will sea foaming the whole thing make it any better (its never had it done before and I was gonna do it soon)
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Sounds like your rad cap or radiator is toast, or you aren't moving any air through the system. You didn't mention your year but your profile lists a 2000 XJ - this is an open cooling system, not closed (Haynes manual is full of crap).
I don't understand why people put 165* thermostats in? All that's going to do is either make you fail emissions tests or it'll overheat later instead of sooner.
I don't understand why people put 165* thermostats in? All that's going to do is either make you fail emissions tests or it'll overheat later instead of sooner.
Originally Posted by salad
Do some searching on this site for TPS and IAC maintenance. The two are involved directly in controlling your idle speed. Likely just need to be cleaned.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by D_Conrad
i was looking at my jeep the other day and noticed the trannie fluid lines do not go to the radiator but to what looks like an aftermarket air cool device placed in front of the radiator. does anybody know if this is better then going through the radiator? or should i run the lines back the way it was stock. thanks!
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by Skyline
I'm thinking my electric fan is not working I noticed that it should have been running at those High temps, but the mechanical on is still. I think I'll try a new radiator cap, see if that helps. Probably should add some water and 50/50 too.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 1
From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So im getting a hi-lift from amazon $64 w free shipping. That will come in handy here and there.
And i am getting some new fogs. Herein lies my conundrum:
Hella 500 ff's (6" @ 55w) $64
Or automats lights (7" @ 100w) $55
http://www.automatcentral.com/7-inch-offroad-lamps
Hmmmmmm.......
And i am getting some new fogs. Herein lies my conundrum:
Hella 500 ff's (6" @ 55w) $64
Or automats lights (7" @ 100w) $55
http://www.automatcentral.com/7-inch-offroad-lamps
Hmmmmmm.......
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by Disoriented Hillbilly
So im getting a hi-lift from amazon $64 w free shipping. That will come in handy here and there.
And i am getting some new fogs. Herein lies my conundrum:
Hella 500 ff's (55w) $64
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MOED5U/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Or automats lights (100w) $55
http://www.automatcentral.com/7-inch-offroad-lamps
Hmmmmmm.......
And i am getting some new fogs. Herein lies my conundrum:
Hella 500 ff's (55w) $64
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MOED5U/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Or automats lights (100w) $55
http://www.automatcentral.com/7-inch-offroad-lamps
Hmmmmmm.......




