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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:44 AM
  #1036  
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Originally Posted by devonfoulke
Once in a while, when im in neutral, my cherokee will start to idle really rough almost untill it dies. when i put it in gear and drive, it feels like it has a lot less power and barely moves. eventually i'll speed up and it will go away but then it will idle at a higher rpm almost as if the car is compensating for itself and then if i stop the same thing will happen and will shake. the car already has 204,000 and im thinking it may be the fuel injectors but it doesent feel like the shaking is coming from the engine but the tranny rather. any advice?
Not really sure about the shaking but the low power, stalling, rough idle etc could be a fuel issue....pump/filter.

Also the high idle could be a number of things. Check the throttle linkage, IAC (idle air control) and the TPS (throttle position sensor)

I am not an expert at all just giving you something to check.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:59 AM
  #1037  
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From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
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Originally Posted by devonfoulke
Once in a while, when im in neutral, my cherokee will start to idle really rough almost untill it dies. when i put it in gear and drive, it feels like it has a lot less power and barely moves. eventually i'll speed up and it will go away but then it will idle at a higher rpm almost as if the car is compensating for itself and then if i stop the same thing will happen and will shake. the car already has 204,000 and im thinking it may be the fuel injectors but it doesent feel like the shaking is coming from the engine but the tranny rather. any advice?
Mine does the same when its over heating. or at least its only done it when my cherokee is burning up. when does yours do it?
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:18 AM
  #1038  
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Originally Posted by taxidave
Thanks the went on just fine.
Now my ticking collapsed lifter stopped ticking (I thought that was good, but no), then my my engine started running like I had water in my fuel. I pulled the valve cover and found that the pushrod above the collapsed lifter had fallen down into the hole. I fished it out with and extending magnet to find it broken, bent and a little chewed up on the sides. The other end of the pushrod is still attached to the top of the lifter.
I don't have the extra money or time to pull the head and replace the lifters and pushrods right now. The company cut my hours and rent's due. How bad is it to run without the pushrod??? Should I leave it where it is (parked in front of my brother's house) or could I drive it home?
Thanks for any help.
What is it? intake or exhaust? anyway unplug the connector of the corresponding injector and you can drive it with no problems.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 02:45 AM
  #1039  
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Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by fantic238
What is it? intake or exhaust? anyway unplug the connector of the corresponding injector and you can drive it with no problems.
Not sure. It's on the #5 cylinder/ lifter next to #6
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:56 AM
  #1040  
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Year: 1989
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Hi while investigating the whistle in my engine, I find that there is a missing bolt on the exhaust manifold (or maybe the intake not sure).
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #1041  
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Originally Posted by Steph74
Hi while investigating the whistle in my engine, I find that there is a missing bolt on the exhaust manifold (or maybe the intake not sure).
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
you will need the cup spring as well.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #1042  
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Originally Posted by taxidave
Not sure. It's on the #5 cylinder/ lifter next to #6
It's intake..
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #1043  
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Thanks,

1/what is the cup spring ?
2/will I have to remove everything and reinstall ? This looks a bit intimidating
3/anybody has a good write up for a total beginner ? (89 laredo 4.0L)
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:04 AM
  #1044  
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Originally Posted by Steph74
Thanks,

1/what is the cup spring ?
2/will I have to remove everything and reinstall ? This looks a bit intimidating
3/anybody has a good write up for a total beginner ? (89 laredo 4.0L)
If you look at the other manifold bolts they have a kind of thick, tapered washer that is not a washer, it is a cup spring that is used to avoid overtighting and to leave some space to allow heat expansion.

You don't need to remove everything, just add the missing bolts and check the other ones, but before you do that check that there aren't pieces missing from the gasket (with a feeler gauge) where the hissing sound comes from, in that case you will need a new manifold gasket.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #1045  
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Hey cool, the cup spring is actually still in the hole well haha I know what you are talking about now.

Thanks....
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #1046  
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Are there speakers in the rear doors of a 1997 jeep cherokee se? Or is the soundbar suppose to be equivalent to the rear speakers?

Last edited by chrisonline1991; Aug 5, 2010 at 02:14 PM.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #1047  
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Originally Posted by fantic238
Then look better, it's where i told you unless some rats have ate it off.
so i took it to a trans shop they got the same thing error code P0715, but they said it wasnt the trans speed sensor on that there was a malfunction on the input sensor for it, they did their diagnostics, cleaned out the connection re wrapped the wires to make sure they werent touching..$135 total....i then took a left turn onto a steep hill from a standstill and the same thing, BAM! it goes into limp mode,only shifts into second...check engine light comes back on...error code P0715 AGAIN!......should i brink it back whats the deal? come on i need a miracle here, just started a new job with a 30min commute cant be dealing with this ****
thank you someone
sincerely Me

*also...i hope this isnt a sign my transmission is going bad, and just an electrical issue...input appreciated

Last edited by #999; Aug 5, 2010 at 09:56 PM.
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #1048  
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From: Saginaw, Mi
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Koda6966
What will I need to change or extend if I put 5" of lift under my XJ?

I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
skip the t-case drop and go with the sye to avoid the headache later
get quotes for an alignment also, avoid common shops, go for the big truck or specialist shops look into shims for the rear axle also
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #1049  
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There's a shop in Hamden that I always see lifted rigs in front of, I'd probably take it there since it's on the way to my college. I don't know if they do alignments though.

Will the sye eliminate the need for a tc drop?
Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #1050  
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Originally Posted by Koda6966
There's a shop in Hamden that I always see lifted rigs in front of, I'd probably take it there since it's on the way to my college. I don't know if they do alignments though.

Will the sye eliminate the need for a tc drop?
dear god yes
the t-case drop is just a band-aid for bad pinion angles after a lift
look into the many sye kits out there most pages have product reviews



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