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Once in a while, when im in neutral, my cherokee will start to idle really rough almost untill it dies. when i put it in gear and drive, it feels like it has a lot less power and barely moves. eventually i'll speed up and it will go away but then it will idle at a higher rpm almost as if the car is compensating for itself and then if i stop the same thing will happen and will shake. the car already has 204,000 and im thinking it may be the fuel injectors but it doesent feel like the shaking is coming from the engine but the tranny rather. any advice?
Also the high idle could be a number of things. Check the throttle linkage, IAC (idle air control) and the TPS (throttle position sensor)
I am not an expert at all just giving you something to check.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 3
From: st.george utah
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0
Once in a while, when im in neutral, my cherokee will start to idle really rough almost untill it dies. when i put it in gear and drive, it feels like it has a lot less power and barely moves. eventually i'll speed up and it will go away but then it will idle at a higher rpm almost as if the car is compensating for itself and then if i stop the same thing will happen and will shake. the car already has 204,000 and im thinking it may be the fuel injectors but it doesent feel like the shaking is coming from the engine but the tranny rather. any advice?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Thanks the went on just fine.
Now my ticking collapsed lifter stopped ticking (I thought that was good, but no), then my my engine started running like I had water in my fuel. I pulled the valve cover and found that the pushrod above the collapsed lifter had fallen down into the hole. I fished it out with and extending magnet to find it broken, bent and a little chewed up on the sides. The other end of the pushrod is still attached to the top of the lifter.
I don't have the extra money or time to pull the head and replace the lifters and pushrods right now. The company cut my hours and rent's due. How bad is it to run without the pushrod??? Should I leave it where it is (parked in front of my brother's house) or could I drive it home?
Thanks for any help.
Now my ticking collapsed lifter stopped ticking (I thought that was good, but no), then my my engine started running like I had water in my fuel. I pulled the valve cover and found that the pushrod above the collapsed lifter had fallen down into the hole. I fished it out with and extending magnet to find it broken, bent and a little chewed up on the sides. The other end of the pushrod is still attached to the top of the lifter.
I don't have the extra money or time to pull the head and replace the lifters and pushrods right now. The company cut my hours and rent's due. How bad is it to run without the pushrod??? Should I leave it where it is (parked in front of my brother's house) or could I drive it home?
Thanks for any help.
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: Logan, UT
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Hi while investigating the whistle in my engine, I find that there is a missing bolt on the exhaust manifold (or maybe the intake not sure).
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Hi while investigating the whistle in my engine, I find that there is a missing bolt on the exhaust manifold (or maybe the intake not sure).
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
Do I fix that by just putting one in or is it more complicated and I will have to remove everything to rebolt according to the torque sequence ?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: Logan, UT
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Thanks,
1/what is the cup spring ?
2/will I have to remove everything and reinstall ? This looks a bit intimidating
3/anybody has a good write up for a total beginner ? (89 laredo 4.0L)
1/what is the cup spring ?
2/will I have to remove everything and reinstall ? This looks a bit intimidating

3/anybody has a good write up for a total beginner ? (89 laredo 4.0L)
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre

You don't need to remove everything, just add the missing bolts and check the other ones, but before you do that check that there aren't pieces missing from the gasket (with a feeler gauge) where the hissing sound comes from, in that case you will need a new manifold gasket.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Are there speakers in the rear doors of a 1997 jeep cherokee se? Or is the soundbar suppose to be equivalent to the rear speakers?
Last edited by chrisonline1991; Aug 5, 2010 at 02:14 PM.
thank you someone
sincerely Me
*also...i hope this isnt a sign my transmission is going bad, and just an electrical issue...input appreciated
Last edited by #999; Aug 5, 2010 at 09:56 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw, Mi
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What will I need to change or extend if I put 5" of lift under my XJ?
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
I will be doing 3" coils and a 2" spacer in the front, with a Dakota bastard pack in the rear and a 2" shackle. I already know I will have to relocate/lengthen the brake lines, add longer shocks, and I will have to do a T case drop. Is there anything else I will have to modify to make this work, safely? This is going on a daily driver so I don't want stuff to break all the time.
get quotes for an alignment also, avoid common shops, go for the big truck or specialist shops look into shims for the rear axle also
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Sidney Center NY
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There's a shop in Hamden that I always see lifted rigs in front of, I'd probably take it there since it's on the way to my college. I don't know if they do alignments though.
Will the sye eliminate the need for a tc drop?
Will the sye eliminate the need for a tc drop?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw, Mi
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the t-case drop is just a band-aid for bad pinion angles after a lift
look into the many sye kits out there most pages have product reviews




